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PDR Hx-35 Install trouble

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Dave MacArthur

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I need a new Fan Clutch. I figured I would get the best available and not worry about it again. I figured I would get the Horton. I've done a search and read a lot but have a few questions. It seems kind of hard to find anyone who sells them anymore. Dodge doesn't and a lot of the vendors don't seem to sell them anymore. What's up? Where can I get one and is it still the best choice? Why doesn't D/C sell them anymore?



Thanks,



Dave
 
I looked into doing a Horton setup last year, but the price scared me away, over $600. 00 for everything. Have they gone down at all?. Ted Jannetty has one in his truck, he said it makes the AC great in traffic and did i make a slight improvement going up hills. Who has the best deal on one now?
 
Originally posted by nickleinonen

would/could a dual electric fan setup work close to as well as the horton setup? that might be cheaper



No, the stock (or Horton) on these trucks flows incredible amounts of air. To do the same with an electric would require a 5 hp motor, if I recall correctly.



Do a search on "electric fan", you'll come up with all kinds of interesting info.
 
Well maybee my electric fans are 5 hp then, I towed a 35' TT through the hills of Kentucky in 95*+ heat and with the A/C on, and had ZERO cooling issues, and mind you, my fans are small, not sure of flow but not a hellava lot tho. These were testing fans, and so far have passed all summer. I'm not sure why guys think they wont work?





Later, Rob
 
Rob they say they won't work because that's what the electric fan makers say, what it really takes is someone like you to prove them wrong. Others have also reported no problems with electric fans.



BTW when the stock or Horton fan is locked up it draws 22 hp:eek:
 
Rob-



You may be getting away with the electrics because you have a 6 speed. The problem is that the automatics generate a huge amount of heat that gets transferred directly to the engine coolant via the trans oil/coolant heat exchanger. Also, the automatics have another cooler that sits in front of the radiator. I agree that the engine fan is probably overkill for most applications but that's the way it should be. It's designed for an automatic truck, with a stock torque converter, pulling at max gcwr, up a steeeep looong mountain at 105 degrees ambient temperature with the A/C on Max.



Dave.
 
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I believe the stock viscous clutch fan is also made by Horton, and it is a decent unit. One thing to consider is that the electric clutch on the electric Horton is on or off, 0 or 100% only. The viscous clutch Horton reads air temp hitting it and adjusts rpm from almost a freewheel to almost a locked condition, and does it continously. After a lot of thought, I decided to replace my fan clutch with the original equipment Horton viscous, because it works much better in the middle ground where I usually am, wether running around empty or towing 25,000 in the mountains.



If you had an application for extensive city driving, like delivery service, then the electric Horton would be better for the A/C, but I think you could supplement the viscous Horton with an electric add on just as well to get better A/C in the city.



I think the biggest drawback of the viscous design is that they often fail gradually over time and are difficult to diagnose as the cause of a cooling system problem.



Doug Rees
 
Dave,



A good freind of mine (LSfarm) also has an electric fan, yes single, he also has an auto, and has had no issuse's in using it. Although he doesn't tow regularly, but at times he does and no complaints, that I'm aware of. Maybee he'll chime in.



Later, Rob
 
Doug;



I have been going through the same reasoning as you did. The problem is that there seems to be a very high number of failures of the stock clutches. As far as I can tell, this isn't the case with the replacement Horton's. I don't want to get stuck somewhere or have to do this again. I want something that will last the life of the truck if possible. It seems that the Horton may just do that. One thing I am not sure I like though is that the Horton runs whenever the A/C is on. Does anyone know if this is correct? My A/C is ice cold as long as I'm moving even just 5-10 mph. I don't think I need it to come on just for the A/C. If I am sitting still and the A/C starts to warm a little I could just hit the manual-on switch. Anyone out there hook up the temp sensor and manual switch but not the A/C pressure switch? Since the Horton doesn't run at all when in freewheel mode, do you need to hook up the A/C pressure switch? In other words, is there a chance to blow an A/C hose without any airflow over the condenser?



Thanks again for all the info,



Dave
 
Dave, I run fanless for nine months out of the year, as long as I'm moving the a/c works fine. I would venture to say the air from the still turning while not locked stock fan isn't necessary. My fan switch is modified so the a/c is only on when I want it to be though. Don't think there would be a problem disconnecting the Horton's a/c compressor switch.
 
Dave,

My Horton fans use a pressure switch in the A/C line and only engage the fan when the A/C head pressure gets too high. The R 134 freon in our trucks requires quite of bit of airflow across the condensor. I disliked the Horton cycling at idle and low speeds with the A/C on until I tapped my air horn for a temperature guage. I found that the Horton runnig really lowers intake temps around town which keeps large injectors from being so smokey in traffic.



I've experimented with electric fans mounted between the grille and condensor that were wired to run anytime the A/C clutch was engaged. The electric fans would not move enough air to keep the condensor cool so I removed them and now flip the manual Horton switch when idling or in slow traffic and let the Horton keep the A/C and boost air cool and also prevent it from cycling. The 2003 trucks will have an electrical circuit to control the new, larger fan through the ECM/PCM. It will only provide a partial lockup of the fan but will be more responsive to engine coolant and intake temps.



I believe that Tim at Blue Chip Diesel helped Horton rewrite the installation manual when Dodge and Horton dissolved their business relationship and later became the Horton U. S. distributor for our CTD's. HTH's, Larry
 
Craig-



I ordered it from Blue Chip Diesel. Good service, came in as a complete package (manufactured 8/5/2002).



Anyone-



I need a little double check as far as the wiring harness goes. I received an addendum regarding the new add-on harness for the 12v switched power supply (24V trucks). I think I can just use any switched 12v supply is that correct? Rather than use the "Connector C9, Cavity 2". Also, the addendum says to use one of the 1/2" NPT ports in the head above the exhaust manifold for the Thermoswitch (24V). The only contradiction is, the only connector in the harness that can reach that location is the adapter that they say is to be used for the Thermoswitch with the manual trans. trucks and mine is an automatic. It doesn't make any difference right? After all, it reads the same sensor. Or is there some other difference in the wiring that I don't know about?



Thanks again,



Dave.
 
Dave,

I hope that your install went well, I just got back and will try to find my installation manual (not the updated version)or help you if I can. After reading your post regarding Tim, I realized that it was Rob at Blue Chip that was the Horton distributor and guru. Not sure if he is still full time with Chip but I did talk with him at Muncie. Watch an maximize the clearance between the bracket/nut holding the wire on th radiator. Larry
 
Thanks Roger. All I got done today was to run the wiring harness and wire tie everything into place. I also took off the knee bolster to cut a hole for the switch. Didn't get it finished though because my Dremel needs a part. Please elaborate on the bracket deal. I can say one thing for sure, this thing is very high quality.



Thanks,



Dave.
 
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