2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission How can I tell if my shocks are wore out?

[RoryTek]

How does one tell if front or rear shocks are worn on a 3500 2wd? The bounce test does not work with these trucks.

 

[Steve Graham]

Hopefully you not talking about the factory shocks, those are only good for a few thousand miles.

I will change my shocks out every other year, if I'm towing a lot it's once a year. I don't bother trying to check them for wear, their expendable, new shocks are cheap compared to the safety they provide.



Steve

 

[Dkevdog]

Hey Rory- If you still have the stock shocks. They're beyond their useable life. I'm getting the Bilstien, just trying to figure the correct part #'s.



Kev

 

[Stranger]

Well...

If you are runnin' empty down 99 South in Fresno at 75+ in the "Monfort" Lane and you can't breathe because your truck is rattling your lungs around.



I'd say your shocks are shot.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

There are several ways to tell if a shock is bad.



1. ANY oil/wet around the shock piston is bad!



2. Abnormal tire wear - such as the tire wearing faster in one area than another (caused by tire "bounce").



3. You can take a shock off and see if it still has any rebound to it (just proves if it is really really shot). Just because a shock still has gas/oil in it doesn't mean that the valving isn't worn.



4. If you have over 30,000 miles on a truck it is good to replace them - especially if you tow or haul much - or drive on bad roads.



5. Spend the extra for lifetime warranty shocks if they are available for the type you desire. - especially if you plan on keeping that truck.



Dan

 

[Cooker]

If after going over a railroad crossing the truck doesn't "settle down" again quickly, your shocks are junk.

 

[RoryTek]

Well, ok guys don't laugh but I have 150k on the OEM shocks. To me I can't tell if the rears are shot but the front end I do get some float when crossing the tracks. The shocks aren't leaking but I guess I'll remove one front and one rear this weekend and see if they are just extra weight right now. Anyone like to buy a set of 150k OEM shocks? anyone.

Now for what type of replacements, I've heard good things about Edelbrocks and Rancho, but I really don't need to spend that much dough on a high end shocks. What a good middle of the road shock?

 

[Dsul]

I replaced my stock shocks at about 120,000 miles. I was getting severe wheel-hop on gravel roads and when taking off in snow in two wheel drive. I went with a Explorer Pro-Comp 9000's. They seem good so far and the price was pretty good too.

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I'm trying hard not to laugh - really I am! I can 100% guarantee with 150,000 miles on the OEM shocks that they are COMPLETELY shot. With the weight of our trucks I really feel that you will save money in the long run buying a quality shock like the Rancho 9000's or the Bilsteins over a cheaper one. You can get a set of Rancho's (my choice) for a little over $200 right now which is a pretty good deal.

 

[fest3er]

Originally posted by Steve St. Laurent
I'm trying hard not to laugh - really I am! I can 100% guarantee with 150,000 miles on the OEM shocks that they are COMPLETELY shot.

Agreed. I pulled my OEM shocks at 10K because they were next to worthless. I put on a set of KYB monotube shocks. They aren't as stiff as performance shocks, but they provide a pretty nice ride, and they rarely wear out. I've never gotten less than 70K miles out of a set.

I replaced the first set of KYBs on my truck at 90K, on general principle. There was little difference between them and the new ones.

KYBs typically cost $40-$45 each.

Fest3er

 

[illflem]

Originally posted by RoryTek

Well, ok guys don't laugh but I have 150k on the OEM shocks.

I'm not going laugh, I have over 200k on my OEMs. My lungs don't rattle the tires wear even and I have to cross the tracks to get anywhere from my house. What the heck it's truck, not a Mercedes sedan.



Buddy replaced his OEMs a few weeks ago on his '96 at 170k with Ranchos, when I asked how it felt he said he couldn't tell the difference.



Somehow I get the feeling that earlier model trucks came with better shocks...

 

[krs]

Why sure Bill, if you're content to ride on the spring rate you'll be fine. But I cut my teeth in SCCA racing sportscars and now can feel even a little bit of difference between one side of a vehicle and the other. There IS a difference in feel when there are high quality shocks on these trucks - they can be made much more predictable at speed than they are as supplied and shocks are an important part of an overall improvement in steering, tracking, and yep, even ride.



Our '01 got shocks, DT trackbar, and that strut for the box when I brought it home at 15,000 miles. It goes down the road as though it were on a track without any vaqueness or looseness at all. It's a truck, yes, but I'm able to drive it with complete confidence steering with two fingers of my left hand.



Regards,



-Ken

 

[Dkevdog]

Rory sorrry but... ... ..... :-laf :-laf :-laf :-laf .



Mine are shot with only 44K on the clock .



Kev

 

[bighammer]

Maybe Steve and others are laughing because our Michigan (and other northern state's) paving SUCKS. Maybe you have smoth roads in your part of CA so it would be tougher to wear them out and notice when they are gone.



It's hard to bounce a truck like ours with the suspension so stiff and the weight. If you hit the brake at slow speed and hold it so you do a hard stop, see if the front end keeps bobbing after the initial rise. Nose should dive under braking slightly, and rise then stop. (A ramp in a parking structure while waiting to pay and get out is a good place) We are talking real low speed here.



Mine would rock side to side but not front back. It was worn sway bar links.

 

[redram]

Originally posted by illflem

I'm not going laugh, I have over 200k on my OEMs. My lungs don't rattle the tires wear even and I have to cross the tracks to get anywhere from my house. What the heck it's truck, not a Mercedes sedan.



Buddy replaced his OEMs a few weeks ago on his '96 at 170k with Ranchos, when I asked how it felt he said he couldn't tell the difference.



Somehow I get the feeling that earlier model trucks came with better shocks...

Nope, had an 89 350 single rear wheel truck and the OE shocks were shot at 24K. Replaced them with Monroes and when I compressed the OE shocks, one front and one rear had "{zero" rebound (they remained compressed!)



Had to replace the front Monroe's every 25K due to the weight of the engine.



My 96 3500 2WD, replaced the OE's at 18K with Monroes. Did not like the Monroes and replaced those with Bilsteins at 22K. These eliminated all of the front end bounce and are still on the truck at 146K.



The moral - all shocks are not created equal!



I agree about the racing - I have been accused of driving my dually much like a race car!

 

[BWilson]

I have been through many shocks, three sets of OEM shocks (under warranty even) they were so bad. The front wheels would hop on our fine Metro Detroit highways. My first set I bought were the Rancho 9000's. They were tons better than stock but only lasted about 60,000 miles and were so bad the front wheels were hopping again. I now have Edlebrock's with over 150,000 on them and they still ride great!!! I can't say enough good things about them.



I've never tried the Bilsteins.



Just my . 02 worth.



The Edlebrock's were really expensive, but it seem sthey were worth it. I'll post when they finally go bad.