I think it is a system of answers.
PLEANTY of fuel volume and pressure
Lubrication with Stanadyne PF to keep the very close machined surfaces lubricated.
A fuel cooler and relocate the return line to the tank vent to keep the fuel cool so the electronics will operate in a reasonable range. I put a fuel temp sensor on mine and typically see OAT+15* - 20* as the input fuel temp with a fuel cooler with fan and relocating the fuel return to the tank vent line.
A post shutdown blower on the VP electronics bay to positively keep the bay from heat soaking. After engine shutdown seems to add about another 20* - 30* to the surface of the electronics bay.
A kick butt fuel free water and particle seperator. I use a RACOR 690T. The CFTDR went to a couple of high pressure pump rebuilders and they showed the effects of ANY water in the high pressure pump side. Heavy pitting of any machined surface, extreme wear.
PLEANTY of fuel at good pressures (14psi - 16 psi), good water free clean fuel in, well lubricated, cool fuel to keep it cool when operating, shutdown blower to keep the shutdown heat soak off of the electronics bay.
1,2,3,4 IMHO are NECESSARY, 5 might be less so.
On a 95* day I am seeing (unloaded, 17 miles) 115* fuel input, which I do not think is too bad. Add 30* heat soak to that and I think you are starting to get into a very concerning temp range, but still safe. However, I would rather start with 115* fuel input than 140* - 150* fuel input temp like it was OEM with the OEM ff attached to the input manifold and the fuel return line to the fuel canister where the fuel pickup is which drives the internal after shutdown fuel temp over the 160* during heat soak.
By taking the OEM ff off the manifold or at least puting non heat conducting washers between the OEM ff and the input manifold you can get about 15* out of the input fuel temp. Simple, quick, low cost.
My next step is to rid the OEM ff and put an inline ff down on the frame totally away from ANY heat absorbtion and see how that does. I know the northern guys could not do that because they need some of the engine heat in the fuel in the winter. If I lived there, I would run the OEM ff in the winter as delivered from DC and a inline ff in the spring, summer, fall.
A couple of us are still experimenting with the heat issues, but just about have enough data and different approaches that we can keep the VP44 cool while running.
Bob Weis