How do I check if the turbo is going??

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My 94' has 120k on the truck. The other day I started getting a fairly loud noise (sounded like a dry bearing) from the engine compartment in front of the passenger. It only lasted about 3 seconds when the engine was started. So, I am wondering if the bearing in the Turbo is going and it is making this noise until the oil pressure gets up?

It made this noise for about three engine starts and now it is gone. Also, I pulled the hose going to the turbo and there seems to be a slight play in the turbo (about 1/16 inch). Is this too much?

I have an appointment at Southwest Cummins on Thursday morning, but they will probably want to just replace it.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Tim

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94' 2500 std cab, 4x4, 12v, 5spd, TST 230/605, 115k mi.
96' 2500 ext cab, 4x4, 12v, 5spd, Cummins Exhaust brake, 55k mi.

 

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Make sure your A/C is turned off, mine sounded like that and was the A/C clutch bearings. The turbo has a little side play in it but as long as its not rubbing its ok. I went through that also and was reasurred it was ok and that was 30,000mi ago.
John

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96 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, no muff, no cat 80gal fuel capacity.
Member NRA/USPSA

 

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FourBarR,

You probably already thought about this but thought I would suggest anyway. Good time for a turbo upgrade if it is bad. Also, make sure you change your oil if it is bad.

 

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The noise was not caused by the A/C. It was always off!

The noise is not occurring anymore!

PLEASE HELP!! Powerwagon, Ted J. , or Joe D.

How do you determine if the turbo needs replacing?

I don't really have the money to go to Cummins tomorrow, but I don't want to loose my turbo and then ruin my engine!!

AND I DON'T KNOW ANYONE ELSE TO ASK!!!!

Thanks in advance,
Tim

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94' 2500 std cab, 4x4, 12v, 5spd, TST 230/605, 120k mi.
96' 2500 ext cab, 4x4, 12v, 5spd, Cummins Exhaust brake, 58k mi.

 

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I don't know the answer to your question, but I may know someone who will. Try this website: http://www.majesticturbo.com My brother once retrofitted a turbo onto a diesel rabbit. Majestic did a real good job of setting him up with different compressor wheels and rebalancing the shaft assembly. They are very reasonable on prices. So if after discussing with them whether yours is bad, they can probably give you good info on a rebuild if needed.

 

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I called majesticturbo and they seem to be a good place to deal with, but they couldn't give me any help over the phone wrt checking my turbo. They want it pulled and sent to them to check.

It looks like I will have to rely on cummins checking it out. If they say it needs to be rebuilt or replaced, then I will have to look around for the best price and work.

Any advice from powerwagon, Ted, or Joe D. would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim

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94' 2500 std cab, 4x4, 12v, 5spd, TST 230/605, 120k mi.
96' 2500 ext cab, 4x4, 12v, 5spd, Cummins Exhaust brake, 58k mi.

 

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This may seem simple but wouldn't a boost gauge tell you if the turbo was working and I know that when it's not working that your performance is crap and you will get lots-o-smoke because of the lack of air to mix with fuel.

Any good diesel shop should be able to provide specs on shaft end and side play. I would think that 1/16 would be a lot side to side but not bad front to back.

 

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Originally posted by A-bomb:
Did you check with your neighbors to see if there are any missing cats #ad
?

Generally, there should be no detectable play in the bearings by feeling it with your hand. If there is any excess play in the bearing this is what happens.

1. As the turbine heats up it expands and so does the rotor (rotating fan blade)

2. The tips of the blades could rub against the housing stator with loose bearings.

3. You will see gouges in the wall of the turbine housing. If this is the case you need to replace the turbine. No exceptions.

4. Also, there may be some oil seepage around the inside of the stator if the bearing or seal is bad. The inside of the turbine should have a very clean appearance.

The turbine is a different part than the TURBO housing. The turbo housing funnels exhaust through the turbine. Both parts are upgradeable, but usually the turbo housing is upgraded (14cm, 16cm) and not the turbine itself. If you have the money, upgrade both.






[This message has been edited by A-bomb (edited 08-16-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by A-bomb (edited 08-16-2000). ]

 

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I talked to a Turbo repair shop here in Phoenix and they told me the following:

1) It is normal to feel some movement up/down on the shaft.
2) There should not be any noticable movement in/out.
3) Check the air intake and make sure that filter is clean.
4) Turbo should be good 250K+ miles.
5) Otherwise, everything should be ok if the truck is running good with no power loss.

I am assuming that the turbo is good, and will look elsewhere.

Thanks,
Tim

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94' 2500 std cab, 4x4, 12v, 5spd, TST 230/605, 120k mi.
96' 2500 ext cab, 4x4, 12v, 5spd, Cummins Exhaust brake, 58k mi.

 

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The bearings on the altinator will squeal at strartup when they first start to go out,the noise will last longer as it progresses. As the bearings get closer to death sometimes they will squeal by putting a load on the altinator such as after startup preheat or even lights. My advice is to wait till the noise lasts long enough to pinpoint it. If it only happened once maybe it was the neighbors cat sleeping in the fan shroud,they can be noisy on startup, but it usually only happens once unless the neighbor had more than one cat.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks,Warn fender flairs and running boards(Play truck)95 3500,5 speed,driftwood,Banks&phscotty,34,000 GVW apple and tractor hauler(work truck)

 

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I'm new here, but I know the truck would be VERY low on power with no boost. If you were VERY careful, I don't see what it would hurt t run the truck briefly with the intake hose disconected as when you were viewing the blade and it wold be obvious is it was spinning?

I had a problem once with very low power and no boost on my gage to speak of, but it turned out the throttle linkage was becoming disconnected!

ld
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Originally posted by FourBarR:
My 94' has 120k on the truck. The other day I started getting a fairly loud noise (sounded like a dry bearing) from the engine compartment in front of the passenger. It only lasted about 3 seconds when the engine was started. So, I am wondering if the bearing in the Turbo is going and it is making this noise until the oil pressure gets up?

It made this noise for about three engine starts and now it is gone. Also, I pulled the hose going to the turbo and there seems to be a slight play in the turbo (about 1/16 inch). Is this too much?

I have an appointment at Southwest Cummins on Thursday morning, but they will probably want to just replace it.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,
Tim

 

[Archive]

700,000 + miles on the OEM turbo and still going.
A sign that your turbo is on the short side of useful life is to remove the exhaust out let look for film (not unburnt fuel--from long idle) also oil inside the the intake piping and in the intake manifold.
This happens first the the bearings go-then the turbo.
The end play and the up and down of the shaft have to be checked with a dial indicator... As i said you have lots more life . Forgot "IF" the impeller is diging(wearing) into the housing also then it is time to replace.
If you get a sound like a siren when cranked up under pull(2000+)and can change the pitch by letting off or reving higher then you have a leaking between the intake manfoild and a mating fitting. Like the seal at the crossover pipe to manifold ar clamp at the boot on the exchanger piping.

 

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It's highly unlikely that your turbo made that noise. You're most likely to find it was a bad bearing in the alternator, water pump, or idler pulley. Next time you can, and the engine hasn't run for a while, pull off the air intake hose and check the turbo shaft for side play (in and out should be nil), and if you can make the wheel touch the housing anywhere, it's bad for sure (don't pry on it!). Normally, there is a small amount of movement in the shaft and wheel, because the turbo shaft floats in oil, not runs on the bearings.

I haven't peeked inside one of these forever, so I don't recall the material, but all turbos use bushings, not roller or ball bearings inside. Lots of turbos (all?) have brass bushings, and won't make noise, even if dry. They just gall and wear the brass, whereupon the wheel will hit the housing, which makes it toast.

The exhaust wheel and the shaft are steel alloy, and the compressor (intake side) wheel is aluminum. The intake has the closer tolerances, and is easy to check.

If you have turbo whine that you normally hear, and suddenly it goes away (but you haven't detected serious loss of power), your turbo could be on it's way out. It's the clearance between the compressor wheel and the housing that makes the noise. When that goes, the noise goes.

[This message has been edited by Power Wagon (edited 08-19-2000). ]

 

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Thanks for all the information!

I have determined that the turbo is ok!

The noise has happened twice since it stopped before. I am wondering if it is the starter selenoid letting the starter stay engaged after I release the key and the engine starts. Because sound is as though something spinning very fast is winding down until the noise dissappears.

Anyway, I am releaved (sp) that it is not the turbo. I will let everyone know if I eventually figure out what is wrong. I am know thinking that it is the starter and will just do a waiting game for the problem to show itself.

Thanks for your help!

Tim

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94' 2500 std cab, 4x4, 12v, 5spd, TST 230/605, 120k mi.
96' 2500 ext cab, 4x4, 12v, 5spd, Cummins Exhaust brake, 58k mi.

 

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I check my turbo every oil change by simultaneously rotating the compressor/turbine assembly and pushing it toward the housing in different directions.

Also I push and pull it to check for play.

 

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FourBarR, I had my starter stayed engaged a few aweeks ago. It made a whirring noise mine lasted at least 30 seconds or longer.
Problems could be starter relay, starter solenoid,soleniod plunger,starter, ignition switch.
With another TDR member we narrowed it down to starter solenoid, igniton swtich, could be starter relay.
If noise last more than 10 seconds pull starter relay this will shut down starter solenoid and fuel shut down soleniod at the same time.
Hemi Dart and I agreed on fix. Don't fast cycle ignition switch, another words don't go from Off to Start in one motion stop at Run for 3 seconds.
I think that the igniton switch caused my temporary problem. Reasons when I turned the ignition switch to run after engine came to life I had no radio. I always have radio on,this basicaly tells me that the igniton switch binded. The starter relay and starer soleniod have nothing to do with getting power to accessories. If your radio or other accessorioes are working it is probably one of the latter.
Looking back into old repair books Chrysler had problems with ignitons switches binding.
Hopes this helps some.

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Missouri Mule 96 White 4X4 ST club cab,(grey int. ),5 spd, 3. 54 reg dif, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards, front and side of bed,Pofile V bug shield,
99 Freight liner FL60 blue Cummins 24v 215 hp, 520 torgue,6 spd 3. 59 no spin rear, 16 ft dry box (white) 19. 5 low profile tires,Weight 11,000, gvw 23000, 11 to 12 mpg
Bill Thomas (Wild Bill)