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How do I pull the plastic rivits used to secure the rear wheel well covers?

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I had to remove the rear wheel cover from my 2500 to install the 5th wheel hitch. I got the OEM plastic rivits from Dodge to re-attach it, but I need a tool like a pop rivit tool to pull them. Home Depot didn't have a tool that will pull rivits as large as these.



My previous truck used fasteners where you pushed in a pin by hand to set the fastener, but Dodge is now using this rivit fastener. It works like a molly bolt, but is pulled instead of screwed. They seem to be more solid that the older type.



Your expert assistance is always appreciated.



Ken
 
Rivits

Hey Ken, I did the samething. I had to go back to the dealer to have them do it. The tool looks like a pop rivit gun but bigger.



Joe
 
Ken,



If you are asking about the plastic rivets that retain the wheel well liners then use a small sharp blade and cut the three expansion fingers off the rear of the rivets then push the rivets out of the hole. That worked for me when I installed the MOPAR molded flaps on my truck.



Dave
 
Ken,



When I put on mudlaps I used the old rivets and replaced the center shank with machine bolts/nuts.



Looking at the fastners think you should be able to pull up the center shank tight with pliers while holding the outer flange. Then use a knife to cut off the shank. Just make sure you catch the cover before you pull.
 
I also didn't have the right tool to reinstall the rivets. But I got by with a small box end wrench to hold down the cover while using a pair of pliers to pull the shank out of the center. It's not quite as efficient as having the right tool for the job, but it gets it done.



BTW, it works better with two sets of hands. One pair to hold down the rivet and keep the wheel well cover flush while the other person pulls the shank.
 
Remove Push Fasteners

I used brute force to remove the fasteners and bought replacements from Home Depot --- droF Variable Depth Push Fasteners #793476 (2 per package). These could be removed again without destroying them.
 
Klenger - The 4 x 2 doesn't come with rear wheel liners so I bought a pair and installed them. Bought the Christmas tree fasteners that go in behind the wheel and fortunately the dealer didn't have the rivets you're referring to. I say "fortunately" because the fasteners I bought were over $3. 00 each (Canadian eh?)!! Hate to think what he would have charged for rivets!



To attach the liners to the fenders I bought some speednuts that clip over the liner and then a screw goes through the fender into the speednut. Oh yeah, I used some nylon washers as well to protect the paint!!



Hope this helps.



Richard
 
You can knock the center pin out with a punch from the outside. I bought new ones, however could not fit them to pop rivit tools. So, my buddy held the old ones in the holes with a hammer and I knocked the original pins back in from the back side. BTW, my Hijacker hitch ended up over the top hat on the underside of the bed on the rear mount. I put spacers inside the top hat and under the mounting rail in the bed along with a filler in the valley of the bed. This new bed is not that strong. In the front I cut some flat bar to go on top of the frame L brackets to carry load across the mount above. Front mounting rail is a few inches ahead of the top hat in that area. Hitch ended up about 1. 5 to 2 inches ahead of the axle, which is about right. It was a big job, then I had to remove it all to have the LineX sprayed in. SNOKING
 
replaced with black annodized carriage bolts with nuts and washers.

Had a 5th hitch in my 98 CTD, gone now but... .

I drilled mine out, and replaced with black annodized carriage bolts with nuts and washers.

Made removal of the 5th hitch easier too...

Now I drag around a 26 ft. Sunnybrook TT



Our prays to the people in New York, Pa. and Washington D. C.

God Bless America
 
Snow King:

I had the Linex bedliner sprayed in on Saturday morning, and put the hitch and toolbox in that afternoon. 16 very carfully located holes in the truck and the hitch was in perfectly. 3 1/2" forward of the axle, 52" aft of the rear window. I located it exactly where the Draw-Tite instructions said to. I am very happy with it.



All: It appears that the answer to my question is to improvise. I can do that.



Latest pic of truck and 5er taken today... #ad
 
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When I did some front end work on my truck, I had to remove the wheel well liners and destroyed the original rivets in the process.

I bought replacements from a local store that sells fasteners to the body shops. They were the same specifications but a lot cheaper than buying from a Dodge dealer.

They also require a pop rivet gun larger than most.

I have a tool that uses different size dies for the different pop rivets and found that I could make it work by leaving the die out and sticking the plastic "pop rivet" in the threaded hole.
 
Marson Klik Plastic Rivet Setter

The rivets are made by the Marson company. There is a special hand riveter. I bought a kit that had the tool and rivets for about $40. You can also buy just the riveter tool for $21. Rivets are also available. The kit is #48001 and the tool is #48000. The company I bought it from is Auto Body Toolmart - 1. 800. 382. 1200. They have a web site : www.autobodytoolmart.com .



:cool:
 
I have had the rear skirts out three times now-I use a flat nail pulling bar and they pop right out. A few are reuable and the local parts house has a substantially similiar replacement rivet for way less than Dodge. To reinstall, I just start it in the hole and tap it with a rubber hammer. So far no problem with this method.



Vaughn
 
Wheel House Liner Fasteners

Just went through this last week, installed rear liners and mud flaps all around on my 99 4X2.



Interesting thing was the factory used Christmas Tree type fasteners on passenger side and plastic rivets on the driver's side :confused:



Unitool makes a fork type prybar screwdriver for removing the Christmas Tree type fasteners, they'll break a rivet loose too. Only around $5. 00 for the tool.



The POP Rivet people now make plastic rivets and a plastic rivet tool, got mine here locally at Canadian Tire. Rivet tool is around $40.



Used the plastic rivets to install my mudflaps too, saved drilling holes in the sheet metal !
 
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