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Archived How do you remove Dana 70 front axle hub & rotors?

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I've read the service manual, done it before but these are really rusted in. This is on a 2001, 3500 Ram. It's been 70,000 miles and 5 yrs. since last removal. I've sprayed with Kroil (penetrating oil), heated the knuckle, and pounded with a special hollow drift tool I made to prevent damaging the 12 point bolt heads. Any other ideas? Truck is down.
 
aw, good luck newbie. I hope luck is on your side. continue to soak in penetrating oil, back out 4 bolts that hold hub on almost half way, then use an air chisel on each one, keep going around even. you will need to have 4 new bolts from dealer or get 4 from hardware store to sacrifice. There's lot's of other methods, but this is the only one that won't damage anything else. I would not suggest heat.
 
When mine needed to come out, it was tough.

I finally cut the ball joints and had a shop press them out.

Something like 20 tons before they popped!!

I cleaned everything up and fitted it, so next time is easier.
 
I work on trucks for a living and have done hundreds of these. As posted above, I also use an air hammer with a pointed bit on the four bolt heads. I have the bolts about 2 or 3 threads loose from the stearing knukle and hammer them in a cross pattern. GOOD LUCK, I have spent a hour air hammering one hub. Sometime I can do it without needing new bolts, but not a bad idea to get new ones.
 
When I pulled the hubs on my 99 2500 I was replacing the Rotors so I spent several hours beating on the rotors with a 4 lb hammer until they came off. I also sprayed them Kroil. I cleaned the mating surfaces with a wire wheel and used anti seize on assembly. traded the truck shortly after that.
 
when my 98. 5 was done the guys were cursing at the truck and it took a torch and a LARGE hammer. I replaced both hubs and rotors and calipers and all joints and links at once. antiseized all. GEE, wonder why Dodge put the rotors on the OUTSIDE in 01. 5? LOL!
 
anyone ever try to take a pry bar and go between the tube and the ear of the axle shaft??? i think this is the lesson I learned the hardway but i aint following along too well. (tv). there was 2 times i had to regear a ford front end and a dodge front end and I cant remember where i couldnt get it apart. beat with hammers, air hammer and pry bar did the trick taking them apart. the ford I kinda broke parts. oops!!!
 
With an 01 I assume you can get the brake rotor removed. Mark the big axle nut with paint to return it to its location later. Split the hub bearing in two with a gear puller. Support the axle stub in the center to protect the seals. Now you need a heavy plate of steel at least 1/2 '' that you drill a 1-1/4 hole in the center[hole saw and drill press and cutting oil] Next drill four holes to match the four bolts everyone talks about beating from the back. Once complete,the plate hole pattern should look like a five that you roll on a dice[the 1-1/4 hole in the center with 15mm holes on the outside.

The steel plate is now a super puller. The center bears against the axle stub and once you remove the four metric bolts from the back of the hub bearing carrier,you insert longer bolts [I think mine are 14mmx80mm]through the outside of the heavy plate.

I used grade 8 and tightened each one a little at a time. It pulls it off nice and straight. If the bolts get pretty tight,you can jar them a little by just hitting the heads from the outside,and tighten some more. Use judgement on how tight the bolts are getting--you are pushing against the axle stub and gear teeth

Good luck
 
I used a puller *GENTLY* pulling the hub and pressing against the end of the axle stub shaft. You need to shim the knuckle u-joint against the axle-tube end, snug the puller judiciously and tap the four bolts with a 40 ounce hammer... I used a craftsman 14mm socket as a driving tool between the bolt head and the hammer (SnapOn will not replace one of theirs under warranty if you do this, craftsman will). Anyway, liberal application of your favorite penetrant, judicious use of hammer and careful application of the puller (ensure you are not in danger of warping hub or destroying bearing, unless you are replacing the bearing)

Also, KCanepari, Mr Simonsen is hardly a "newbie", he is quite literally THE FATHER OF THE CUMMINS-POWERED RAM... He and John Keele share the honor of brainstorming the product in the 1980s.
 
Ooh the memories this post brings back... I ended up having mine cut out (at the ball joints) and put in a press to "pop" them out. Sorry for the bad news.
 
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