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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission How does your truck start in the cold??

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We were hit with some fairly cold temps today in Ontario (-6C), and my truck seemed to crank over quite a bit before it fired up. Is that fairly normal in these temps? I didnt plug it in, but the intake heater cycled on as it should.



Only thing i noticed is it doesnt seem to crank very fast. Alternator is charging good, batteries are new, and connections are good. Did some reading and ordered new brushes and a contact kit from Larry B, figured it cant hurt!



Other than the initial cold start, it cranks fast and fires right up. This is the first winter with this truck, and want to address any problems now if there are any.

Thanks for any input.
 
You might try cycling the grid heaters a second time. When you first turn the ignition switch on & the "wait to start" light comes on, wait for it to go out, then shut off the ignition. Wait a second or two, then turn the ignition on, cycling the grid heaters a second time, wait for the "WTS" light to go out. This helps my truck when I don't get a chance or place to plug it in on the really cold nights. Hope this helps, John
 
Haven't had a problem with starting. I just wait for the "wait to start" light to go out and crank her up. Its a little rough idling for a second or two, just let the heat grids cycle for a couple minutes and i am good to go.
 
A low idle will also make it seem hard to start. What is your idle at? Give it a little fuel next time you fire up and you might be surprised at how fast it fires up.
 
i give mine about a 1/2" of pedal year round on nearly all starts just to save wear on the starter, pops off at about a half revolution vs 3-4 or more cold, but i have the idle set right at 750 maybe a hair under
 
I still start mine with the key when it is cold, BLAHHHHHH sorry I couldnt resist.



I just wait for the WTS light to go out and it will fire right up. If under 0deg F I will cycle the heaters twice then start. I have never had a problem down to the coldest of about -20F. Also never had a fail to start condition with my remote start despite the temp.



Your engine will spin over alittle slower when real cold. Everything is stiff and cold, fuel is thicker, oil is like molassas and the grids take a toll on the batteries when they run hard which pull alot of juice, batteries dont like the cold either.



One thing to check are ur batteries. I switched mine out after one year from stock to Optimas and the Optimas did a better job out of the box half charged than the stock did all charged up.



Hope this helps, sorry about he jokes, HEHE.



J-
 
I found on my '96 w/ 279K+ miles, that the problem was fuel going back to the tank after sitting a while. It would crank and crank, then fire right up. I installl an spring loaded check valve in the fuel line between the tank and rough pump/mechanical pump, problem solved. I later found out that there is a check valve on the fuel distribution on top of the engine, but I feel I saved time and money in the long run.

tlee
 
Run 0w40 in the engine, set your timing to 14. 5 degrees, check fuel pressure, and check your injectors to make sure they are ok. Low fuel pressure and poor atomization make them hard to start. I use a stick on oil pan heater along w/ 0w40. My oil pressue comes up real quick and the truck warms up quicker. My ole '93 started the best but it has a cold start advance for the timing. It would advance to somewhere around 17. 5 degrees to strart when cold I think. Also make sure your grid heaters are working for when you can't plug her in.
 
In cold weather here in northern WI, I noticed a huge difference in how fast my truck cranked when I switched to synthetic oil from conventional. I was running Shell Rotella 15W40 conventional. Our long I-6 crank has to try to spin in that sludge when it is cold. Take your conventional oil and leave it in your freezer overnight and tell me how fast it pours out. It doesn't when it is that cold. Your crank has more resistance turning in that stuff and your oil pump cannot pump it. Your cold starts are even harder on your engine when the oil pressure barely comes up due to thick oil. I switched to AMSOIL 15W40 which has a cold pour point of -44 degrees F. Even at 44 below zero, this stuff pours. Your crank can turn and your oil pressure come up quicker. If you haven't already, switch to synthetic with a good cold pour point rating.



Just my experience and . 02

-Chuck
 
Though it doesn't get real cold here, it is still a little rough. I don't think anything cranks as good as a VE with a properly working KSB. Everything I have ever had with a P-pump cranks like crap unless you crack the throttle a little bit. All I have to do on the 98 is set my foot on the pedal and it fires right up.
 
I have a '93 and an '02 sitting outside right now. They both pop right off. I agree, the 12 valve P7100 engines crank a little while, as do the 03 and up common rail trucks.
 
HTML:
Only thing i noticed is it doesnt seem to crank very fast.



The old timers (even older than me) used to say you gotta turnem at least 200RPM to get a good start.



That is why the older Cats had a gasoline starter motor cause you could not reasonably get an electric motor to spin the engines fast enough.



Technology finally built a motor that would crank a diesel fast enough to start it.
 
As a couple of people have mentioned, once you have determined that your batteries, connections and starter are good, switch to running synthetic oil. It makes a heck of a big difference in cranking speed. At school, no one can plug in and my roomate('01) and I('96) have no problems with getting the trucks to start and it is definitely not warm at Dartmouth.



Another thing that a lot of people don't pay attention to is where they park their vehicle if it is in a big parking lot. Parking it in the sun does make a significant difference. It also means that you will be able to clean the ice off of your windshield much easier if it is even there.
 
cold start

when it was -30 without windchill, truck plugged in with

'power service" additive, turn the key and barely 1/2 a cycle and she would fire up right away. mind you it was a little loud until it warmed up.
 
sounds pretty normal... these are contankerous girls when it's cold... they'll fire, but they fire better when you cycle the grids a couple times and give 'em a little throttle!



now, I've never been as cold as you are, but on my old 97 w/ the grids disconnected, it would crank and crank when it was below freezing, but if I gave it a generous amount of throttle, it would bust right off... it would idle low and make a lot of noise, but it'd light!
 
Mine "coughs". Cranks for about a revolution then fires and quits. Will do this 5-6 times before I can get it to keep rattling and persue on its own. This is with about 1/4 throttle. Starting with one preheat soon following with another, about 5 degrees Faren. outside, not plugged in, 15w40 no synthetic. It then 3 cylindered and in 10 minutes was nice and warm and smooth as she was when driven off the showroom floor.
 
Just something to check may or may not make a difference, not sure yet???

Look on top of your fuel filter housing and see if the plug for the fuel heater is in one piece and not melted. Even if it looks good, it may be melted inside and not working. Most people are saying that it is not needed, but maybe in sever cold it does help??? Mine was melted and I removed it. Will find out this winter if it makes a difference or not, although I don't know how long mine was not working. Good luck.
 
mine sat for almost a week, in zero degrees with a highs of maybe 30 and i let the grid heaters cycle once, it cranked a little slow about three or four times, then fired right up, you could tell it didn't like to be running, but didn't miss fire or anything, then it high idled and was warm in no time
 
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