how hard do you have to try to blow up one of...

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Cruise Control Questions?

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... these turbo's????



(stock h1c w 14cm no wg)



with the fuel mods the thing will peg the boost gauge (30psi) with only 1/8-1/4 throttle on a grade



if i apply more throttle from that point it is almost like i can hear the housing stretching... lol



not really, but you know what i mean, i am sure this thing is over reving. tonight it even stalled (or whatever you call it) once or twice toward the top of a grade



just wondering if this thing is gonna last until the new one gets here?



and if they do come apart, what else can it damage?



intercooler?



motor?



never messed with this stuff before and really appreciate all the knowledge here



don
 
how hard do you have to try to blow up one of ...

Depending upone how it lets go it could take the whole head out if a shaft or impellar lets go and gets up into the valve chamber .



Why not just let it be be and not screw it up .



want to blow it up cap off the the oil line and pull your hod off as it might throw peices through the hood
 
i am not trying to grenade the turbo



geez



"just let it be"?????



i dont get it



maybe i worded the subject wrong



it was being kinda sarcastic - didnt think i would have to explain that tho...



(why would anyone intentionally blow up a turbo?)



what i meant was how much abuse can they take?



is just turning up the fuel enough to blow one up?



do you think it will last for a few weeks until i get a new one?
 
My original "baby H1C" totally wiped out the thrust bearing... . that caused the compressor wheel to run into the housing... ruined the wheel and housing... . lots of aluminum dust get sucked thru the engine.

That was about 5 years ago..... and when the enigine was basically stock.

Current turbo is still holding up even after being modified.
 
I worked on/modified an engine for a friend. After he was running 50/55 psi on a 14 non gated H1C he began to loose power/boost.



I pulled the turbo and found the turbine wheel destroyed. So, I just :rolleyes: for the guys who say they have big boost numbers on the H1C equipped engines.
 
i dont know if my gauge has a pin in it and stops at 30 or if the thing is only making 30? all i know is it sounds wicked if i give it more throttle after the gauge is pegged. i hope it is not making those kind of numbers gl, as i dont think the stock motor would like that! what is max for stock studs n gasket???
 
If you're intercooled, you can get by with 45psi intermittently. If nonIC, I'd keep it under 30psi.



BTW- Don, I notice you are starting lots of threads trying to get performance secrets into the open, eh? Good luck in that quest. Guys have done lots of R&D, and spent lots of money doing so. Dont be surprised if you get ignored. Information is never free, though I cant fault you for trying.

DP
 
well, i have the luxury of not having a regular job



on the drag bike forums there are always lots of questions



you think tuning one of these trucks is tricky???



try to take a 1976 kz 1000 motor, one that was designed for 60 hp... and try to make it put out 280 hp. then try to get it to launch at wot with a 10" wide slick behind it. yea, talk about tricky. anyways, i dont give up all my secrets (i won the top gas championship in '06) (and '05 too) but i definitely help with some of the tuning questions. i also help when it involves a reliability issue. i have lots of tricks in that department.



what ever. maybe the truck guys are different. these things are so simple it is not funny. if turning up my pump has created so much pressure that the return needs to be opened up for reliability issues and there is someone sitting there laughing and keeping quiet, just waiting for me to post how my sh1t blew up, so be it. you dont have to believe in God (reap what you sow) to know that karma is real.



make it a great day! (unless you have other plans)



don
 
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don i ran 55 psi on my h1c after mods for about 3 months with no ill effects the turbo was still tight when i pulled it off to put a hx35w on it. with the hx i see about 30psi and still get the same or a little more power and it spools alot quicker.
 
ohhh, so there is a good chance that just my gauge stops at 30 (it is only a 0-30 gauge) that the thing is making more boost than that?



it will make 30 psi (easy) in 3rd gear empty



i figured it would make a lot more in the higher gears



i need to switch it to my oil pressure gauge and try it again...
 
Save yourself a bunch of hassle, get a 60 psi gauge. I thought a 35 would be plenty. :rolleyes: When I was hitting 33 I said, oops, I shoulda got a 60! Now 40 psi is no problem. I did get a 60, by the way! :-laf
 
60? who says this 100 psi gauge will be enough when i am done? jk, yes, that is what i have to do. first i think i need to find a fuel pin tho. i dont think this set up is gonna work when i hook that trailer back up! anyone got a old smokey laying around?
 
I am non intercooled and I can very easily bury my 30 psi gage, so I don't really know where I am. I am guessing maybe 35 psi. Getting a larger cap gage is on the todo list for that someday that never comes.
 
if you're making 30psi at 1/2 throttle, you're probably seeing 45-50psi at WOT... not good conditions for that poor little H1C.



I would go with an S300 based turbo with a 62mm compressor and a 65mm turbine (II Phat Shaft, HTT HTB2, etc. ) pick a 12cm or 14cm turbine housing depending on your application and elevation. I think it'll be a nice all around driving turbo.



I've run an sps62 (71mm turbine wheel) on my last two 12v trucks. My previous truck had a ported cylinder head, and the turbo was perfect. On my current truck with an unported head, it's still fine to drive, but I'm curious how the smaller turbine wheel would act as this one signs on a little late for my work truck.



I run this 62mm turbo at 48-50psi, and I've run it at 55psi for a few weeks when I first installed it on my red truck (drive pressure was less than 1:1! that went out the window with the 4k GSK and the big injectors)



a 60psi boost gauge should be fine. you wouldn't want to drive a single turbo that would be efficient at that boost level IMO. twins are a different story, but even with most mild 'daily driver' type twin setups, 60psi is plenty IMO. you could run a 100psi gauge, but unless you're planning on twins in the next year, just get a 60. easier to read, and it's not like they're that expensive.
 
These turbos are a lot stronger then people give them credit for. Get a 60lb guage or hook up your oil ressure guage to it and see what its making. You'll probobly hurt the head gasket before the turbo. Above about 35 psi and your not in the efficency range any more so like Forrest said a s300 based turbo would be better, I love mine. Good luck with it and if anybody on hear has a problem that I can help with even if i've spent a bunch of money to find the answer I'll be sure to help. Isnt that why were hear, Information!
 
thanks schafer, when you got that 14mm head from kta did he happen to give any suggestions regarding the return?



don



ps - i hooked up the oil pressure gauge but have not taken it up on the toll rd yet. but it definately makes more than 30 psi. i just drove it around the block and empty on flat ground it will make 35 in 3rd under (and that is stone cold). i know..... i normally let it warm up before standing on it but it takes forever in the city to warm and wanted to see. tonight i have to go down to san juan so i will get a better idea of what is going on. it doesnt really matter tho cuz like you said "this turbo has got to go... "



pps - what is the diff between s300 and 62/12? (i still have not figured out how to read those stupid maps) (can read them, but dont know how it applies to these motors)
 
No untill now I've never heard of opening up the return before. My fuel system is just an a-1000 with a boost referenced bypass regulator. I kinda figure that all the fuel is going out the injectors and not much back through the return. But I will be doing some more research and asking some more questions on it. My turbo is an s300 with 62mm comp wheel. 65mm ex. wheel and a 12 cm ex. housing, it's called the htb2 from htt. Both Industrial and HTT have basically the same turbos. Phat shaft turbo's have 65mm wheel, super phat shafts and HTT killer wheels have 71mm wheels on the exhaust. 71's are more efficent with less drive pressure but spool slower. Go with a good old htb2 or phat shaft 62 and you wont be disapointed.
 
so the 'super' is too much...

thnx! i hear ya on the return. not much volume can get out of the stock hole. i wonder how the return on the hot side works? (inj side) is there a restriction in line there?



i was told to not go bigger than 62 (comp side). you say 65 is a good size for the ex side. sounds good to me.



phat shaft 62 it is...



thanks again



don
 
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