I work In a transmission shop and have installed a couple centerforces on 12 valvers... I do this all the time, so with a lift, transmission jack, no porta power and air tools, I can get one in and out in 3-1/2- 4 hrs. If you do decide to do it yerself, here's some tips from experience.
I'll give ya my order of operation first, then I'll ramble about do's and don'ts. 1. take shifter out from inside cab. 2. drain tcase. 3. push somewhere else if ya spill some and are working on yer back. lol 4. take rear driveshaft out. 5. Drop crossmember 6. remove front driveshaft and tcase 7. undo all wires, slave cylinder from transmission 8. With an impact and long extension, undo bellhousing bolts. 9. pull back and set her on the ground... 10 install clutch/flywheel ect. and go back in.
I personally wouldn't use a portapower unless I just had one laying around. I worked at the local Dodge dealership for about 6 months and see a dodge at least once a week now, and all the late model pickups have the same crossmember design. And I have never had to use one. It wasn't easy the first time I did one though, but A master tech handed me a big dammit hammer (biggest deadblow hammer you can find) and with a maximum of 10 blows, 5 on each side, from the front edge going back and up, the crossmember should be on the ground. (be sure to jack up on transmission till it hits floorboard first, so mount bolts are not in yer way. Going back in is tricky the first time, too. the sides of the crossmember are slanted out. To go back in, hold the crossmember at the bottom of the frame, and rock it back so the narrow part of the crossmember gets knocked in first. drive it in and it will act as a wedge. when it gets half way in, rotate it into the proper position for install. Again, the whole procedure takes max 10 blows from a persuader(dammit hammer) if ya do it right. I use (I believe) 18mm deep socket w' 4" extension on 3/8" impact to get the nuts through the holes in the frame and a 15mm wrench on the inside holding the bolts. Might wanna have a magnet on a stick handy the first time, 'cause you'll probably drop the nuts inside the frame. also, drain and remove the transfer case. It has (I believe) 6 15mm bolts or nuts holding it to the transmission. Gear wrenches come in handy but are not necessary. I usually support the transmission with a jack, remove rear driveshaft and crossmember, then lower the jack until the transmission stops coming down to make getting front drivehaft and transfer case bolts easier to get to. You can take transmission/tcase out as a single unit(I've done it both ways), but the extra hundred pounds of off balance weight makes it **** near impossible to get the pilot shaft lined up with the bearing going back in. You might also need a shorty 15mm wrench to get the top tcase bolt. I don't think ya do on the Rams, but I do a lot of jeeps too and you need one for them. Other than that, I would definitely use a transmission jack and a ratchet strap unless ya really want a hernia. especially strap the tcase to the jack, because they are not fun to catch mid air. ( I don't know if I want to admit to having done that before either. )I know this is long and out of order, but the time/effort/money you save will be your own. also, take the tcase fill plug out and sit it on your seat or someplace obvious, because it's real easy to forget to refill w/ transmission fluid. ( almost did that one time) I hope this helps. Email me at Rod77zilla@aol.com if ya have any trouble and need quick answers. good luck!
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