How Hard to Replace Drag Link

[Midnite]

My drag link is really loose and appears worn out. I've never replaced one before, and from looking at my service manual it doesn't look like it would be that difficult (other than maybe getting the special tool they say you need). Any gotchas I should watch out for when doing this? Would I need to have the front end realigned afterward?



Also, the service manual seems to imply that I can reuse the rubber seals on each end--should I do this, or just spring for new seals?



Thanks,

Mike

 

[Philip]

The new seals should come with the bar. The only special tool is a large pickle fork to break then loose. Most rental shops have them. You might also have luck with using a big hammer. " Do not beat on the studs of the drag link". Hit the arm the studs go threw at the opposite angle of normal travel. Most of the time the studs will pop loose after a couple of hard blows. It also wouldn't hurt to wedge a bar and apply a little down force on the drag link while beating.

 

[JMichelson]

Mike. I Just finished putting Luke’s Links on my 98’s drag link. I know that the 98 is different from your 92. I’ll pass on what I learned from removing mine. I used a pitman arm puller on mine. It cost $ 16. 00 dollars at NAPA. I put it on and kept tightening it until it finally popped loose. If you use a puller be careful and get it centered on the stud or you can ruin the stud. I used a pickle fork on track bar. If you use a pickle fork you need to whack with sharp blows as hard as you can. I spayed penetrating oil on the day before, I’m not sure how much it helped. Good Luck, Jeff

 

[JFitzgerald]

Mike, I've replaced mine twice. The first replacement got loose in a few months and was warranted. Anyway, the pickle fork worked great for me. It will cut the rubber seals, but they came with my new link, like Philip said, along with the castle nuts and cotter pins. Got mine at NAPA, which they said was a Moog part, but I'm not too sure. It's a relatively easy job - if you have the right tool. I think the link was about $70.



Fitz

 

[Midnite]

Cool--thanks for the info!



Mike

 

[Midnite]

Man, I'm getting a workout hammering on that pickle fork. After removing the cotter pins and nuts, I sprayed the hell out of it with PB Blaster and then started whacking with a big hammer. Unfortunately I'm not seeing any movement at all.



I'm taking a rest at the moment, hoping the penetrating oil will help if I let it set a bit.



One question though--why would it be bad to hammer on the studs--will they "mushroom" under the blows, making it even more difficult to get them out? Just curious.



Mike

 

[dpuckett]

Midnite-

is this the "center link?" If so, I've had to replace two of them 60K apart on my mom's 92. After a couple good blows with an 8# hammer, it fell out. New one goes right up in there. May not hurt to get front end aligned afterwords, though it didnt affect drivability or tire wear in mine. MAKE SURE you get the one for the diesel; the gasser one is a hair smaller, and will NOT fit, no matter how hard you try. It's been a few years since I did it, so I dont quite remember how it's set up; and it's dark here (skeeters from he!! galore) so I cant run out and look at it.



Daniel