How in the heck do you get rotors off of my ram>?

[bignick33]

Well, when i notices a bad brake shake, i figured i would change my rotors or turn them. But, now i have one promblem, how in the heck do i get my rotors off of my ram? I have a 2500 Dodge Cummins, Long bed, extended cab. Took the nut off of the axle, and 4 bolts behind the rotor and the rotor wouldn't even budge when i hit it with a hammer on the back side to get it off. Anyone have any help, i am stuck. Nick

 

[groundpounder]

Hello, I looked into this same topic before and was told to have them turned on the truck. My dealer charges 100 bucks. I like my dealer so far and I think for the problems I was told i would encounter I would be better off haveing them do it. Hope this helps!!!

 

[SFord]

Have'nt looked at mine yet, too new, but are you saying that the rotors will not come right off for turning? I would have thought they would break away from the hub for brake maintenance and such.

 

[work2muchplay2little]

I think groundpounder has the right idea, my manual (1999) shows use of a 4 legged puller to remove the rotor... .

 

[F Simkowski (In Memory)]

50% of the front hubs with the sealed unit bearings will come off of the axle stub after removing the center nut and the unit bearing nuts.

The other 50% WON'T.

You will use a long 4 leg puller mounted on 4 of the wheel studs and screw the center thread screw against the center of the axle stub.

Anti-seize compound is highly recommended on the inside of the bearing/axle collar upon reassembly.

Good luck.

Frank S.

 

[TSielski]

Had the same problem with my 95 4x4. Broke a 3-jaw puller, trying to remove the hub/rotor assembly. DC uses an extremely lousey (from a maintenance standpoint) hub/rotor design, that allows the hub bearing, which is pressed into the rotor as an assembly, to become rust-welded to the steering knuckle. I had to resort to fabricating a megalith slide puller that mounted to all eight wheel studs and had a 15 pound weight sliding on an approx 3' pipe. Weighs about 40 pounds, but worked great. Wet everything with a good penetrating oil, like kroil or liquid wrench. It helps if you can get some longer 14mm -1. 5 bolts (in place of the 4 that secure the hub/rotor to the knuckle) and beat on them with a 32 oz hammer. As this is a fine metric thread, these bolts are hard to find though. It's also a good idea to zip tie the stub axles (at the u-joint flange)to the axle tongue so the stub axle won't come out when your hub/rotors do. Even with all this, and the use of a GOOD puller, you still may leave some of the bearing in the knuckle as the rotor comes off. This happened to one of mine. The bearings are are a Timken Unipack, not designed to come apart, and will need to be pressed together if they do separate. Some guys have done this without apparent problems, though I would not feel comfortable doing so. I replaced both of my hub rotors. Pricey at $310 each from DC. Again a very lousey design.

 

[Fred Swanson]

On the 2000, the design has changed in that the rotor does come off separately from the hub. There are lock rings on 4 of the 8 wheel studs, that once removed, the rotor will slide off.



Rotors still warp, and after turning will have to be replaced next pad change. That part still is lousy.

 

[bignick33]

gave up

Well thanks for all the information, i got so freaking mad at those dam rotors i just gave up. Somethings are just better that way i guess. Nick