Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) how long to change the.....

[shendren]

return and supply fuel lines? the ones that dry rot. i thought i'd try to replace them sometime soon. a little pm. i hear it's a mother dog.



any helpful hints?



thanks. scott.

 

[The patriot]

Your truck is a bit different than mine, but I suppose you should still schedule it with your fuel filter change.

Also, J30R7 (I think?) spec fuel line. A foot was more than enough for mine, but like I said, yours may be different.

A mirror helps. If you have skinny long arms it's a plus too.

Bout an hour or so.

Eric

 

[Koa Man]

I took about 2 hours and I had the transmission out and the truck sitting 28 inches off the ground! I think I only used about 10 inches on the supply and about 16 inches on the return line. I found the supply line fairly easy, but the return line was extremely difficult. With the truck on the ground and transmission in place, I would estimate the time at ..... don't know, seems to be nearly impossible to me. The marine grade diesel hose I used to replace the factory one is twice as thick. Also routed it further away from the engine block so not so much heat will be on the rubber. I think the heat is what is destroying the hose.

 

[Champane Flight]

Usually

I pull the starter to get a shot up to the return line and feed line. The heat does degrade these hoses big time. The return line is routed next to the engine block and goes first. I have put two on, the last time I wrapped the return line with 5/8 heater hose for heat protection. The last one I put on lasted three years, I plan on pulling and checking this one in two. Will let everyone know how it is holding up.

 

[Howard Durand]

I also recommend pulling the starter and, if it is 4X4, disconnect the front drive line at the transfer case and swing it aside.

The time to do both is about 30 minutes and is time well spent.

Also, save the hose clamps, they are the type that do not cut the hose and are quite expensive to replace.

 

[Koa Man]

The hose clamps that were on my return line were crimped type. Hardest part was cutting it off. Don't see how I could have saved those. The factory clamps were also too small to use on the marine diesel line due to the thickness of the sidewalls. I would not replace the lines with OEM ones. Get the better quality marine lines, they were only $2. 50 and $2. 25 a foot.

 

[Howard Durand]

Mine are standard slotted hose clamps that can be removed with a 1/4" socket. They are much better clamps than the ones you find at the hardware stores and are well worth saving.

 

[Blakers]

What size hose is it?



Thanks,



Blake

 

[Howard Durand]

The return line is 3/8 and the supply line is 5/16. (as I recall, I used 3/8 for both)

Be sure to get hose that is rated for diesel fuel.

 

[Koa Man]

I believe it is 3/8 for supply and 5/16 for return.

 

[Howard Durand]

KOA MAN,



Your are right, I stand corrected.

I did use 3/8 for both and it works fine.



Also, in my first reply I suggested removing the starter and disconnecting the front drive line at the transfer case.

I should have said to disconnect the drive line at the front differential.



Just goes to show, I need to engage brain before shooting off mouth.

 

[Dieselnerd]

I just replaced mine 2 days ago, again. This time I made the return line quite a bit longer and routed it to the outside of the fuel filter. I think the problem is the heat of the motor and the fact that the line is routed right along the side of all that hot metal. I have a 4x4 so I dropped the front driveshaft and the starter. Even then it's a bear to replace but it's not impossible. Now the part of the line that normally goes bad is easily visible and because it's not against the motor I think it will last a long time.