Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) How much for studs?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission BHAF vs K&N: Thoughts

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) External Wastegate Adjustment

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I can't say, but it took me about 3-4 hours to do mine. I did not bottom tap and did them with the head in place. I swapped one stud out and one stud in, then torque. Rinse and repeat 25 more times.



The post valve adjustment would likely be from the flat rate book, but I would think the stud installation would be just on the time it took.



You should probably look at least one re-torque, which would also include a post valve adjustment.



Jim
 
yes, the studs can be swapped in the truck. A bottom tap is not required, but helpful if you have an y grodies down there. I used 2 old bolts. I cut the head off of one at the head and welded another half length bolt to that one. This effectively lengthened the bolt. Then I cut a groove in the end to act as a tap end.



With some brake cleaner and air, I blew out the holes. In hindsight, the tap was not needed at all.



You remove 1 bolt then install and torque 1 stud. Using the proper lube of course. This will prevernt disturbing the head gasket.



Dave
 
I would be pretty leary of anything much over 45 psi.



Alot of HG failures are compunded issues. It's not boost alone. It's also drive pressure, altitude/ air density and temperature of the air. In other words, trucks at sea level on a cool moist day are more suseceptable to pressure issues when compared to truck at altitude or on a warm day.



How much more? I dunno!



One of the keys to making the gasket last with studs is retorquing several times. I retorque until I cannot get any additional rotation from the nut. This way the gasket is fully compressed. But it should already be on your factory rig.



Dave



Dave
 
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