How to Adjust Valves When....

[R.E. Miller]

The timing pin does not engage? This is really making me hot. The timing pin on my engine barely moves, and will not move in enough to engage with the gear. I cannot locate TDC, and thus cannot adjust my valves I have blasted the thing with 300 gallons of penetrating oil with nothing but a mess of rust and crust coming out of the hole Can some one please explain the way to locate TDC with the valves for me? Thanks for your help and patience



Russell

 

[Harlan]

Timing pin

Ther are two bolts that hold the timing pin housing to the block.

One in frunt of the pin and one behind the pin. If you use a #-25 torx driver on a 1/4 or 3/8 rachet you can take the bolts out and then the pin and housing will come out for cleaning. There is a O ring on the housing to block and when you get the housing of there is an O ring on the pin. Clean thease up and you will have a large hole where the housing went into the block. Look in the hole with a mirrer and turn the moter over till you see the timing hole in the drive gear. Check to make sure that the hole is clear. I had one that was like yours and when I got it all apart found that someone had rolled the moter over with the pin still instaled.

The pin was plastice so did not hurt anything . Shoved the old pin out the back of the hole and instaled a new one and was back in bisness. Dident worry about the old pin , it goes to the bottom of the timing case and into the pan. being plastice if it gets into a gear it will just chew it up and send it to the pan.

Harlan

 

[R.E. Miller]

Harlan,

Thanks for your help, but how did you locate TDC precisely after you removed the pin?

Thanks

Russell

 

[Paul Herioux]

Russell,

I just did this on mine this past weekend. I used an on car valve spring removal bar to hold down the intake valve after removing the rocker. I then held the valve down with my left hand on the bar while using my engine barring tool, a ratchet and about 3 1/2' of extensions to SLOWLY rotate the engine till I felt it contact the valve. I continued to rotate the engine until the valve was up high enough to remove the valve keepers. I then mounted a dial indicator to measure valve travel and turned crank till valve(and piston) topped out and marked the crank pulley.

I'll warn you ahead of time that this is not for the faint of heart. If you screw up and drop the valve down the cylinder the head will have to come off.

Have fun.

 

[Gio]

I have read somewhere that the timing pin is an easything

to shear off in the process of trying 2 line it up 4 timing, it is just

a plastic pin,

might B worth a look at. good luck!!!

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Don't use the timing pin, there are easier ways to adjust the valves. I do it using the companion-cylinder method...



First of all, set the intake valves to . 010" and the exhaust valves to . 020. " I like to use a "go-no go" type of feeler gauge.



Remove all 6 covers, and rotate the engine using a 7/8" socket on the alternator nut. You'll want to rotate the nut counterclockwise. To get #1 TDC, watch the rockers on #6. When they are at crossover (one finishing going up, the other beginning to go down), #1 will be at TDC. You can then adjust Intake valves on 1, 2, and 4. Adjust exhaust valves on 1, 3, and 5. Then rotate the engine 360 degrees, and adjust intake valves on 3, 5, and 6. Adjust exhaust valves on 2, 4, and 6.



This is the fast, easy, and accurate way to adjust the valves. Using the timing pin is a major PITA.



Best of luck to you!

 

[baby.driver]

I did it Evan's way.

It IS the easy way.



Jay

 

[Mel Fuelling]

I'm probably one of the few that feel this way, but I really like the

feel, precision, and control of the crankshaft that I get while using

one wrench on the alternator pulley nut(CCW) and one wrench

on a H Balancer bolt head(CW). I haven't broken a timing pin off

(yet) using opposing wrenches.



Paul, that sounds like a real timesaver. I'll probably try to twist

some safety wire around the keeper groove(s) to use as a tether

until I feel less nervous about the valve. I've been pulling the

injector, but this seems to leave your dial indicator with stem

extension at an included angle to piston travel(it doesn't line up

straight), so this tip should be easier to get an accurate reading.



R. E. , I don't think anyone over 5 yrs of age can reach the timing

pin with more than the tips of one or two fingers. Remove the

two 5/8" bolts holding the Vacum/Power Steering Pump flange to

the rear side of the front timing cover(just below the timing pin),

and slide the V/PS pump 4 0r 5" back towards the cab. This will

give you plenty of access to the timing pin and the two injection

pump nuts that are the hardest to get to. So far, I've been able

to reassemble using the old gasket after smearing a thin layer of

Ultra Black Permatex Silicone on both sides of the gasket, without

any seeps, drips, or leaks.

 

[R.E. Miller]

Thanks a lot for the pointers guys! But now I have to wait, big red is prestaged for snow patrol I figure I'll be done with this storm buy Tuesday, so I'll have to tinker then.

Thanks again,

Russell

 

[Harlan]

Timing Pin

One other thing, If you use a dile indicater of one of the vales in

in #one piston to find top dead center and mark you crank pully

you then will know if your locking pin is exactly on top dead center also. Some pins are off a few % one way or the other.

Harlan

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I've never understood the whole timing pin thing when adjusting the valves...



just adjust whatever valve you want while it is on the base circle of the cam... rotate the engine by hand and watch the valves... you'll see when they're on the base circle...



the only reason there are "sequences" to adjusting valves is so that you don't forget which ones you've already done... it's a mechanical procedure, not a rain dance.



Forrest

 

[Roger rodbolt]

I agree......

What Forrest said... ... ...