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How to *completely* swap coolant in a 6BT

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transmission troubles

I recently acquired a GMC Suburban with a 6BT swap done a few years ago. I prefer to use extended-life coolant for various reasons. However, mixing ELC with regular coolant is a big no-no as it can turn into a gelatinous blob and ruin your day. In my powerstroke 7.3 engine, I used Gooch's method, which is well-known in the PSD world and essentially involves removing the thermostat and also removing the block plugs from the engine to drain out all the old coolant before putting new coolant into the system.

Is there an equivalent method for the 6BT? Or, has anyone swapped over to ELC and, if so, what procedure did you use?

Thanks.
 
I reverse flush my system through the heater hose hooked to my house water until it's good & clear.
My house has 90 psi water pressure, as long as there's something big enough opened, I've never had a problem.
I typically take 45 mins to an hour doing this both with the lower radiator hose connected and disconnected.
I use full strength coolant, along with distilled water... and I dont mind if it's a little strong or a might bit weak (never gets that cold here anyway) but if it's important to you , you can use a tester to determine strength. I try to err on the strong side.
Not very special or precise, but it's worked for me.
 
Here's what I use in all my vehicles. You really have to pay attention to most universal coolants but Peak Global is legit. Non 2EH formula (think Dexcool and all the early plasticizer problems), phosphate free, silicate free.


http://www.peakauto.com/products/antifreeze-coolants/automotive/global-lifetime-full-strength/
Thanks for the reply. I use and prefer Shell Rotella Ultra ELC. Not really looking to change brands -- my post was more about how to do the swap from non-ELC to ELC coolant.
 
The way I used to do it when i did it my self on others vehicles i owned.

I wouldn't mess with the drain on the radiator.
Take the lower hose off at radiator or engine. *First put container under the end your going to drain.*
When the container gets full empty it, then put it back place.
Start engine more coolant will drain, keep eye on coolant flow and tempature gauge. *In my expereince in doing this when the coolant flow slows down to small stream the temp gauge wlll be very close to over heating. Turn engine off. *Never damaged a engine doing it this way and remember the oil actually cools the engine the coolant cools the oil. Since l have had Mule and Moose I have my mechanic mechanics do it. They only drain the radaitor. But have Mules coolant changed every 2 years and Mooses every 4 years (extended life). I did Mules many years ago when I took care of the kdp (mechanic loaned me spot (bay). He did help on the techinal stuff.
 
Coolant temp gauge can only read the coolant it has contact with,when the coolant level is below the sensor it will no longer indicate an over heat condition
 
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