Here I am

How to disable the "Lamp out" system.

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Optima batteries

Alarm problem

Status
Not open for further replies.
I . switched my bed on the 04 to a CM flatbed with LED lights. The only downside is that the lamp out warning flashes and chimes quite often when I have the turn signals on. I installed the proper resistence into the system but it only helps most of the time. Is there a way to disable that system??:{
 
I don't know of any way to disable it. Maybe someone else does... . You must have a ground out of place, or didn't install the resistor correctly or it wouldn't be harrASSing you... . Did you put a resistor in each electrical circuit?
 
I installed a standard bulb in each circut. . Figured that for it to work the resistor had to have the same resistance as the bulb it replaced, Then why not just install the standard bulb and have the light. This defeats the purpose of the LEDS (in my mind) so I would like to just disable the system and save the power.
 
I don't know if it will help in your case, but for years medium duty trucks have been equipped with relays to operate the lights and turn signals on add-on truck beds.



Bill
 
My CM bed was equipped with ordinary not very bright incandescent bulbs. I replaced every one of them with LEDs and found a website that offered resistors to install on every lamp circuit to simulate the standard bulb resistance. I've lost the website but will try again to find it.

Yes, the same amount of current is being drawn but there's no way to get around it on newer Rams with the lamp monitoring module. We can have the bright effectiveness of LEDs though.
 
I LOVE the Leds for the brightness. . Great stuff! Most of the time the dinger does not ring, but on occasion it just will drive me nuts.
 
You may have to install more than 1 standard bulb in the circuit. On the flatbeds with LED's most places add the headache rack lights with standard bulds to solve the problem. You need a bulb on each blinker\brake side and 2 on the tail\markers IIRC correctly or you get the Lamp Out finger.
 
I use the resistors. There has to be 3 on the bed. Left, right, and run. And they can't be wired in through the trailer connector, or you'll still be getting the lamp out signal. Also, if you ground the lights to the bed or frame, you still may get the signal, as the designated grounds are part of the PCM loop.



Lamp Out "finger"... ... (makes me want to give IT the finger!!! :-laf) And the stupid chiming... ... it's as annoying as the voices in my head!!! :eek:



example of the resistors I use..... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Two-2-piece...Parts_Accessories&hash=item589dadcad0&vxp=mtr
 
Lamp Out "finger"... ... (makes me want to give IT the finger!!! :-laf) And the stupid chiming... ... it's as annoying as the voices in my head!!! :eek:



Yeah, as sophisticated as these things get I am always expecting it to me "your fly is open" one of these days. :rolleyes:
 
When I had the shop in Spokane we started to convert all the trucks to LED's from the sealed units... I have one big issue with the LED's that made me switch back to bulbs... . in the winter where we ran the trucks... Canada, ID, MT, UT, OR, WA, CA... . we'd find that in blowing weather the snow would drift in on the housing and completly cover the backs of the trucks with a fog of white... . this snow dust would cover the LED's and there was no way anyone could see the truck from the rear... . There just isn't the heat generated from an LED that you get from a normal bulb... during those 18 years we had 2 trucks rear ended at speed on the highway from people who didn't pay attention... . even with the sealed bulb units... I can't even start to imagine the risk of no lights back there from the blowing snow... . BTW in each case the rear guard on the truck protected the truck with no damage we couldn't pull out and in both cases the cars were totaled... .



And with the resistors you now have the same current flow (load) on the truck as if you had the bulbs... . For me as much as I believe that the LED's are brighter and safer its just not the case in snow with the wind blowing... and for that reason on the flat bed on my dually I still have the sealed bulb units... . in fact I have a lot of them...



There is nothing worse than being rear ended at 40-50 MPH by someone doing 60-70 MPH... Just my thoughts on this... Just my thoughts...
 



Mr. Barlow, all due respect, but please pay attention. The auction I listed on ebay was for two units, not one. You can have two for a dollar more than the one you listed... . And I only listed that as an example. They can be found around 30-50% cheaper in other places, especially if purchased in quantity.



When I had the shop in Spokane we started to convert all the trucks to LED's from the sealed units... I have one big issue with the LED's that made me switch back to bulbs... . in the winter where we ran the trucks... Canada, ID, MT, UT, OR, WA, CA... . we'd find that in blowing weather the snow would drift in on the housing and completly cover the backs of the trucks with a fog of white... . this snow dust would cover the LED's and there was no way anyone could see the truck from the rear... . There just isn't the heat generated from an LED that you get from a normal bulb... during those 18 years we had 2 trucks rear ended at speed on the highway from people who didn't pay attention... . even with the sealed bulb units... I can't even start to imagine the risk of no lights back there from the blowing snow... . BTW in each case the rear guard on the truck protected the truck with no damage we couldn't pull out and in both cases the cars were totaled... .



And with the resistors you now have the same current flow (load) on the truck as if you had the bulbs... . For me as much as I believe that the LED's are brighter and safer its just not the case in snow with the wind blowing... and for that reason on the flat bed on my dually I still have the sealed bulb units... . in fact I have a lot of them...



There is nothing worse than being rear ended at 40-50 MPH by someone doing 60-70 MPH... Just my thoughts on this... Just my thoughts...

jelag, I hear your concern... . Personally, if I were having that problem, I'd be changing the light locations... . I like the brighter LEDs and the less voltage draw, plus the longer life in most cases... . Of course, I don't have to deal with blowing snow... at least not more than a day or so. As Mr. Barlow said, I too, like the instant on/off of the LEDs... . As for the resistors, it's not an issue until you go with the newer trucks... . All the more reason to stay with the old 12v trucks!!! :D



Yeah, as sophisticated as these things get I am always expecting it to me "your fly is open" one of these days. :rolleyes:

When they get that complicated, I'm gonna go back to riding my horses... . :{ Not at fast, but definitely more reliable!! :-laf
 
Just out of curiosity have you checked all your bulbs and plugs to make sure you don't have another issue? When my lamp out system was acting up it turn out to be the hi beam connection on the passenger side headlight, i turn all you light on and start wiggling every wire and connector.
 
This started happning when I switched from the slock bed to a flatbed with LED lights on it. The LEDs do not have enough current draw to let the system acknowledge that they are actually on. I know that I can install resistors in the system I would rather eliminate the warning and save the power. .
 
Right, I understand all that, just saying I've also seen coincidences that will drive you crazy. Didint your first post say you installed resistors Allready? Maybe I missread it.
 
No I did not install resistors, I plugged the old taillight assembly in under the bed. Worked well till the first rainstorm then the sockets got damp and caused the lamp out chime.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top