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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission How to fix rust on rear wheel arches???

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Howdy folks, my 98. 5 is nearing 300k and runs good but the body is starting to go downhill fast. I have 2 rust spots about the size of a quarter at about the 10 and 2 o'clock postions on the rear wheel arches on both sides. Being able to do some minor bady work myslef I sanded them off, primed and retouched the areas the finished product looked pretty good. Within 2 days the new paint bubbled and flaked off. Being fairly irked, and deciding to get aggresive I went to my local Auto Body supplier and purchased the POR-15 Metal Prep and a pint of the POR-15 paint. sanded off the spots again, applied the metal prep and the paint as instructed. 2 weeks went by and all was well until it rained last night and today the POR-15 paint is now starting to bubble. Can anyone help with this Must I take the truck to Ziebart or something and have them treat the area behind? I have done my best to keep the truck clean underneath and have sprayed out the wheelwells, even laying underneath the truck and trying to clean out where the wheel wells meet the box. any help would be apprieciated.
 
Ditto on mine. The fix won't last because the metal has developed pin holes through to the inside allowing moisture under the paint. The only fix is cut it out and weld in new metal.



Dana
 
I was afraid the moisture was coming in from the back. Welding in new metal will be fun. Nothing is ever easy, Thanks for the help.
 
My '01 has rusted in the exact same spots on both sides (it has actually rusted through in that spot). There is a foam backing behind the bed exterior sheet metal, and the internal wheel well support. Moisture gets caught back there, and causes the truck to rust from the inside out.

The only repair is to replace the metal that is rusted up.
 
#@$%!Good ole nor`east trucks. Rust holes thanks to PennDOT and their oversalting of roads.

Western NY trucks are always nice ones too !
 
I have the same spots and have tried all the same stuff..... I am going to be cutting mine out anf putting new metal in here in the next couple weeks. I have bedliner sprayed on my wheel wheels and rockers and up and around the stamped "flares" so it's an easy touch-up for me. I also have a spot on the right side of the lower lip on the tail gate that I am going to have to put a patch in there as well.
 
You need to POR 15 both sides after taking off the loose rust. Then use Restore grip from POR15 on both sides. Then you need to coat it with POR15, then you need to put coating POR15 sells to make regular paint stick to POR15. I bought a new hood for my 1984 GMC 7000 I have had since new but I got lazy and used POR15. Five years later the new hood is sitting in a box. No oxyen no rust. It has worked for me on many applications. POR15 and PB Blaster addict here. :-laf
 
POR 15 has been proven time & time again to peel off in layers. If you want a good product that is like POR 15, but doesn't peel or allow moisture to lift..... get some Zero Rust. Zero Rust is $50 gallon & this stuff is awesome. No need for a topcoat, this stuff is a primer that doesn't need topcoated. If you want to topcoat it, just do it, no prep is required. When I need advice, I turn to the guys here. Welcome To Autobodystore.com
 
I'm not going to order a patch panel for a 2" wide by 4" long piece of metal... . I can make my own for less than $5 why pay $60 for one I am going to cut 90% off.
 
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