Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) (How to)...Fuel Filter change?

[USMCBay]

I'm going to head out on a 5hr road trip tomorrow. I've got a fuel filter but want to know how difficult is it going to be because I can't afford any delays once I get off work.



SO... Any advice or heads-up? I need to know before the change. I did a search but really no step by steps to be found.



Where is the bleed-off valve?



Is this thing going to be hand tight or really on there?

 

[illflem]

On your '94 with vacuum assist brakes the job is much easier if you remove the two nuts that hold on the brake master cylinder, pull the large hose off the booster and swing the cylinder out of the way. It doesn't look like it but the cylinder moves easily towards the drivers side. Disconnect the water in fuel sensor then unscrew the filter, I usually can do it by hand but have also had to use large pliers. There is an small o-ring up under the housing that should be replaced, unscrew the nut under it to remove. A new o-ring should come with your new filter. Remove the water sensor bowl from the old filter, clean it out and install on the new filter. Put everything back together, hand tight is plenty. The bleed screw is the one nearest the front on top of the housing with a 10mm head. Open it a couple of turns and start pumping away at the rubber primer button on the lift pump till airless diesel comes out the bleed screw, a broom handle or dowel makes it easier on thumb. Your truck may run rough for a few seconds but will pull out of it.

I no longer pump the primer button, found it easier to pressurize the fuel tank with an air blow gun till fuel comes out the bleed screw, takes about 15 seconds to fill the filter and bleed, the primer button can take over a 100 pumps.

 

[USMCBay]

... man you always come through !!!



Is the nut holding the old washer up under "there" after I remove the filter?

 

[Bseg]

The first time I changed the fuel filter on my 97 I filled up the housing with fuel as recommended and of course half of it fell out when I tilted it slightly to get it back on.



I got real nervous when I went to start the truck and it wouldn't start. Didn't know what I could have done wrong.



Pulled out the owner's manual and read about what you do if you run out of fuel, soon became aquainted with the plunger that pumps the fuel back into the filter housing.



I pumped that thing close to 100 times as illflem mentioned earlier and finally I got the truck to start.



All I could think of the whole time was having to have my truck towed off to Cummins to figure out what I screwed up. :{



Just one of those great experiences you get to have when you do something new.

 

[illflem]

Originally posted by cdixon

... man you always come through !!!



Is the nut holding the old washer up under "there" after I remove the filter?

Yes, you will be able to feel how it all goes together under there.

 

[Joe G.]

It's not a good idea to pre-fill the filter in spite of what the book says. The center of the filter is filtered fuel. If you pour fuel in there it is unfiltered which goes directly to the injection pump. Better to install it empty and fill it with the push button or by pressurizing the tank.

 

[USMCBay]

Okay got it done @ about 11pm last night wich made me really happy that I had to get up @ 5am !!!!!!!!!!!:{

Well taking the the two bolt out and lowering that backlash of brake lines really made it accesable.

I am so ashamed that I haven't changed that thing. It looked like rocks of rust in the bottom. The center screw came out pretty easy and I changed all of the Gaskets.

Heres alittle trick that I did... My Water In Fuel sensor wire had the bare wire syndrom so I seperated the wires laid the old small gasket between the wires and started to roll the electrical tape around it. Then once it was good and solid with tape (sort of a flat shape by now) I covered it with aluminum tape for protection. So that should solve the ole' water in fuel light problem after washing the engine.

Thought that was a good tip.

If you can imagine the "Y" as the wires and the "o" as the old o-ring gasket then this is the diagram.

o

Y

Oo.

P. S I did not fill the filter with any fuel and I pumped 46 times and had no bubbles coming out of the bleeder... tightened it, cranked it, about 1 second of fluttering and then ran fine.



Thanks Illflem !!!!

Hopefully this will help out in a "search" some day !!