How to install Fuel Pressure Gauge

[JTryles]

I've got an Isspro fuel pressure gauge (0-30 PSI) with the isolator. I have a length of braided SS rubber hose and a "banjo bolt"... . where should I tap in to the fuel system to make the connection? How is this accomplished? Any tips or tricks (or warnings) I should know about?

 

[CBrabec]

Tap into the Cp3. IMHO, that will give you the most accurate reading. One thing I did is I ran anti-freeze in the line which connects from the back of the guage to the isolator, if you don't allow air pockets to get in, it will give you an accurate reading. Pretty simple to install.

 

[JTryles]

Tap into the Cp3. IMHO, that will give you the most accurate reading. One thing I did is I ran anti-freeze in the line which connects from the back of the guage to the isolator, if you don't allow air pockets to get in, it will give you an accurate reading. Pretty simple to install.

Gotcha on the antifreeze in the small tube... that was in the customized directions that Dieselmanor supplied with the kit.



When you say "tap in to the CP3"... I'm not sure what you mean. Is there a factory plug on it somewhere I can screw in to? Or do you literally mean "drill and tap"? Note that this is a low pressure gauge for judging lift pump performance not one that can read the 23,000psi in the rail itself. Do you have any photo's of exactly where you installed your sender probe?



Also, I was thinking of buying that Billet Fuel Filter Cap from Geno's that has a built in port for a sender.

 

[JTryles]

I did some more searching of the forums and found this thread:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149242



Think it gave me a little more info but if anyone out there has a picture of where they tapped in to the Cp3 for the gauge I would really appreciate it! Thanks in advance.

 

[JStieger]

Think it gave me a little more info but if anyone out there has a picture of where they tapped in to the Cp3 for the gauge I would really appreciate it! Thanks in advance.

Take a look in my Reader's Rig gallery!

 

[AEzzo]

I used the tapped banjo bolt on the bottom of the filter housing. It's easy to reach from the wheel well.

 

[JTryles]

Take a look in my Reader's Rig gallery!

Ah, that clears it up quite a bit! THANKS!



What's the "needle valve" you have pictured used for? Did you have to use the 45 degree fitting to get the hose installed in that spot?

I used the tapped banjo bolt on the bottom of the filter housing. It's easy to reach from the wheel well.

That was another spot I just discovered while doing a little more research.



So I've got 3 choices then---

1) The Cp3

2) Bottom of Filter Housing

3) Geno's Fuel Filter Cap



Also, Is is necessary to use new "banjo washers" or just cheap insurance? The kit I bought didn't include any but if it's a good idea I'll have to source some out I guess!

 

[CBrabec]

JTryles,

I didn't mean "tap" into the Cp3, I meant take out the bolt on the Cp3 and replace it with your banjo bolt. That place will give you a more accurate reading than under the filter housing. I know they say to go under the filter housing because it is easier to get to, but a qualified diesel mechanic I talked to said the Cp3 is the place to do it. I didn't use any washers either. The guage I used is from Di-pricol and it only goes up to 30 psi for fuel pressure, not for rail pressure.

 

[JTryles]

JTryles,

I didn't mean "tap" into the Cp3, I meant take out the bolt on the Cp3 and replace it with your banjo bolt. That place will give you a more accurate reading than under the filter housing. I know they say to go under the filter housing because it is easier to get to, but a qualified diesel mechanic I talked to said the Cp3 is the place to do it. I didn't use any washers either. The guage I used is from Di-pricol and it only goes up to 30 psi for fuel pressure, not for rail pressure.

It's all pretty clear to me now. Thanks everyone! I will try to go for the direct CP3 connection like CBrabec and JStieger suggest. I will resort to the fuel filter housing connection if the CP3 connection attempt causes too many swear words and bloody knuckles! :-laf

 

[Tryingit]

Here is a link to a picture that should help.



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[CBrabec]

Good luck. Not that hard, just take your time. Try not to resort to the filter housing, cause your readings won't be as accurate. Let us know how it came out for you.

 

[JStieger]

What's the "needle valve" you have pictured used for? Did you have to use the 45 degree fitting to get the hose installed in that spot?

The valve is cracked open just a bit so that the full flow is not getting to the isolator and possibly damaging it. It also serves to smooth out any pressure spikes or oscillations. You can get smaller brass valves than what I used so that 45 degree fitting is not needed. The 45 degree fitting just made it easier so I didn't have to bend the stainless braided tubing too much (it's overkill, but what the heck!)

Also, Is is necessary to use new "banjo washers" or just cheap insurance? The kit I bought didn't include any but if it's a good idea I'll have to source some out I guess!

I used new ones because I didn't know better. The old ones should be good to go.



Just don't overtighten the tapped banjo bolt! It's only 18 ft-lbs required torque, which is really easy to achieve and then some with an open end wrench. If you break it in the CP3, that would be the beginning of a bad day - for me at least.



It also might not hurt to spray down the CP3 area with brake cleaner ahead of time to clear any debris away. This is located post filter so you definitely don't want any junk getting into your pump and injectors.



Good luck - you can do it!

 

[JTryles]

Thanks everyone! Feeling a LOT more confident in what the "H-E-double L" I am doing now!