How to keep cold pipe from blowing off?

[Woodenhead]

So I did another re-torque on the head today and finally took it out for the first wide open run since doing the o-rings and twins. I rolled into the throttle and watched the boost climb to 55psi and POW off comes the cold pipe from the 40. Oviously the intake on the 40 is not meant to have a pressure pipe on it hence no barb or raised lip. I had the clamp cranked up as tight as I dared. Anyway, I plan to clean the inake of the turbo and inside of the boot with alcohol and double clamp it. We'll see how that holds but has anyone got any other ideas?



I've seen some guys make a brace back to the turbo and weld it to the cold pipe but I'm not real keen on that quite yet.



Thanks,

Mike

 

[lmills]

clean pipe surfaces really well then try spraying the sealing area with some hair spray. Also, have you upgraded your clamps and boots?

 

[JGK]

Find someone who can TIG aluminum and have a bead welded around the collar.



-Jay

 

[Bob4x4]

Another solution is to weld studs on both sides of the offending joint and use rod ends with a hard link to mechanically keep it together.



Bob

 

[BPonci]

You can remove the compressor cover and turn the end down with a lathe to make a rolled lip.

 

[WTBurke]

Wow! You guys just kill me... I have an HY-35 j-hooked for 27 Lbs PSI and I can't imagine the grunt you guys have



William

 

[Partyat33]

I had a tab welded and then used a turnbuckle. I mechanincal connection is the way to go. Mine will hold till about 60 and boom. With the mechanical, it never comes off.



Dennis

 

[Woodenhead]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll try the hairspray and double clamp it. If it works I'm thinking it may still only last a little while. I think I'll tig some brackets to the cold pipe and brace it back to the turbo.



Mike

 

[lmills]

The piers twins should not need a bead welded on them or a groove cut in. I ran them for 2 years at 65 PSI and only blew one boot.

 

[Woodenhead]

I wonder what's different about the piers setup. This is NW Customs plumbing on a PDR HX40. Does piers do something to the 40 when they include it in a kit?

 

[lmills]

the end of the cold pipe should already have a bead or rolled lip to help keep the boots on.

 

[Woodenhead]

The cold pipe has a lip on it but that isn't the problem. The boot comes off the turbo itself. I cleaned it with alcohol (it was already pretty clean), gave it a light mist of hairspray and put the clamp on so tight that I though it was gonna snap.



I just came back from a few WOT runs and it held. I held it down in 6th gear from about 1800RPMs and when the pyro was just starting to break 1100F (slowly) I was still pulling strong at 90mph+. Actually I'm not sure who was more freaked out me or the dog. Boost never made it over 55psi, I'm not sure if it's because I don't have enough fuel or if the relief valves are opening. Time to come up with some sort of device that'll let me know when the valves open.



I think I'm still going to come up with some sort of mechanical lock. Until then I'll cruise around with a ratchet and 7/16" socket under the seat .



Mike

 

[MMcCallie]

I was told a trick at a Ford dealership that has worked very well for me. I was repeatedly blowing off my hot pipe. Applied a thin coating of Black RTV silicone with my fingers to the inner edge of the boot where it slides over the pipe and it has never come of again. Seems to hold so well i may have to cut the boot to ever take it off again.

 

[GDMRTN]

I had a problem with that on a different turbo. I took an air cutoff wheel and made grooves all the way around where the hose clamps on. Never a problem since.