Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) How To Prime Motor With Oil?

[RSchwarzli]

Hey guys, I have finally reassembled the motor and have it completely installed in the truck, ready to fire it up. My question is how do you prime the motor with oil so it does not dry start? As there is NO oil in the motor I would have to just crank the starter . Is there a primer like a gas motor? How is this done?



Thanks so much!Oo.



Robert

 

[InfernoB]

First put the motor in, and prime the oil filter if you haven't done so.

Then you could disable the fuel solenoid so it wont start, and crank it until you have oil pressure. (15 to 20 seconds)

You could also buy a 12 volt pump, and plumb into the oil gallery, and prime it with the engine off from a container of oil.

If you prelubed it during assembly, and you have not had it sitting too long, the fuel solenoid disable should work.

 

[DonTX]

If it were mine, I would pull the injectors, and crank until I had oil pressure. Lots of push on them bearings when cranking with compression.

 

[AKaiser]

Don't see why it's going to be that big of a deal. It's a one time problem. You'll have oil pressure in a few seconds and the lube will be in the system before it has time to do any significant damage. Other than priming the oil filter and disconnecting the fuel system relays, IMHO going to all this trouble is a solution to an insignificant problem. Every engine starts dry ONCE.

 

[Schlickenmeyer]

If you used a proper engine assembly lube (I use Lubriplate) then you do not have to worry, this is it's job. If you did not, then you should follow the above advice.

 

[Matt42]

When I reassemble an engine, I use a thick prelube soup of molybdenum disulfide (moly anti-seize), graphite assembly lube, and synthetic motor oil. I fill the oil pump with vaseline so it won't start dry. I've never assembled a diesel. On a gas engine, I chuck a used distributor shaft into a drill and pump up the oil system. That only works where the distributor shaft also drives the oil pump.



I spin the engine a few times with no spark plugs. Then, after getting the distributor rotor back from 180* off, I start it up. Then I change the oil filter after about 30 minutes of running, and the oil & filter after 100 miles. Those engines last a long time.



I agree with removing the injectors for some cranking.

 

[WDimig]

it's overkill to pull the injectors, if you used a quality motor asembly grease, like lubriplate, and disabled the fuel solenoid and cranked to you get oil pressure, it is more than enough, the whole purpose of you putting the assembly grease on those crtitical parts, like bearings, and stuff, it to lube them on a dry start untill sufficient oil pressure it reaced, and then really the oil kinda pushes the assemble grease out of the way. we use lubriplate #105 heavily at cummins, we got tubes of that stuff lying around everywhere, i got 2 or 3 tubes in my tool box alone. it's good suff.



wes

 

[Matt42]

it's overkill to pull the injectors, if you used a quality motor asembly grease, like lubriplate, and disabled the fuel solenoid and cranked to you get oil pressure, it is more than enough, the whole purpose of you putting the assembly grease on those crtitical parts, like bearings, and stuff, it to lube them on a dry start untill sufficient oil pressure it reaced, and then really the oil kinda pushes the assemble grease out of the way. we use lubriplate #105 heavily at cummins, we got tubes of that stuff lying around everywhere, i got 2 or 3 tubes in my tool box alone. it's good suff.



wes

I won't quarrel with Wes' experience!

 

[AKaiser]

I won't quarrel with Wes' experience!

Ditto that.