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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission How to remove stubborn rotors--easy

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The rotors on my '02 broke loose OK because I anti- -seized them before,but after about an inch of ''off'',they would come no further. I inserted a bolt into the caliper carrier. I then used an oversise nut as a spacer between the carrier and the bolt threads,and tightened the bolt to its nut. This pushed the rotor off a bit at a time. It was real simple to rotate the wheel --then push out the next low spot encountered on the rotor. The rust on the inside of the caliper was so thick that it swelled the thickness of the ''Hat '' portion of the caliper. It was dragging on outside of the wheel hub. The pusher bolt literally broke off sections of rust from inside the rotor.

It sure was easier than beating the crap out of the rotor to get it off. Hope this helps you out if you live where they use calcium on the roads. The pads were rusted out from behind the friction material,and the rear pads had lost 30% of their surface due to breaking off in front of the corrosion. I think I will just replace the pads for now and pull it down after 30K for new pads and rotors. Truck has 50K on it now.
 
Sounds like the same thing that happened to my rears, where I could not back off the parking shoes enuff to get it to slid off... . Altho I did use the "hammer method" to get them off, 3 hours just to remove them. I will keep this in mind, altho I'm not as exactly sure of what you refer to but next time I look at the brakes I will try to apply it. Oh yea I had the corroded pads as well, plenty of mat'l on them but the rust was pretty bad and it seperate the backer from the pad mat'l... Thanx for the tip
 
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