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There is no best way , there is a cheep way , a expensive way or a mox nix way . One or the other way will strain the load capacity of the system ,Easy way is to tap the brake light at the third brake light and add a plug in for a two wire brake a way connector and mount it next to the light, the type rubber covered sell for about 1. 5$ get two as you will need a dummy to use as a cap-plug one half of second connector . If cap is going to stay on truck for long time remove bulb from the truck light to keep the load down or wire in a switch to kill the light it can be put in light housing . The connectors can be had at wally world they are about 1in by1/2 wiggle apart two post male and female bend and wiggle to brake connection . Other way is to add line from left or right brake wire with connector . I would add a in-line fuse of under 5 Amp . Hope this helps . Ron in Louisville KY
Wollyworld sells a easy splice in type job, you simply unplug your tailight connection, put this unit in and then plug it back together, the connection has tailights, blinkers and brakes on it, you could run them to your cap.
Hmm, sounds like the installers need to know about the wire down on the frame. I wouldn't let them wire mine, I said I'd do it myself (had to sign a release) but I haven't done it yet. I'll look for the wire on the frame, better then butchering the wiring at the tail light.
There IS and easier way! Look in your owner's manual. There is a P/N for an auxiliary harness available from D/C that connects to the factory WH that allows the CHMSL for the capper to be powered from the CHMSL output from the truck without the need for any electronics.
There is a blank plug under the hood near the steering column for this. You simply remove the weatherseals from the plug pinouts and plug in the WH and then route it back to your caps WH.
I used this method on my '97BR and it works slick. There is also an additional circuit which provides a constant 12V feed for the dome lamp.
I have just ordered my '03 DR and <sigh> I can't find where D/C had the foresight to provide the same W/H for the '03's. What I suspect I will do is to tap into the trailer brake controller outpur for the CHMSL and also use the constant 12V output as well.
I have contacted the D/C parts specifier to see if the WH is avaialble for the DR's bt they havent gotten back to me yet. If they do, I will post the P/N.
How did everybody run the wires up into the bed to connect to the cap? My cap's wires come down to the driver's side, rear corner and has a quick connect. Is there a way to run the CHMSL wire up into the bed to that point so it isn't dangling around to get torn off? Can I run it up through the body of the side of the bed and have it come out just under the bedrail? The cap is to be removed several times a year to haul stuff.
Here is a Quick Disconnect that works real well. If you have to run wires put them in split loom to protect them.
94-97 Dodge trucks had the CHMSL tap wire under the hood. You had to run a wire all the way back for hook up. In 98 they put the tap wire at the back of the truck inside the LR frame rail near the bumper which made hook up a hole lot easier.
There are plenty of access holes stamped in the sheet metal for you to fish the wires through. I used a four terminal square trailer connector on mine so that I could just pull the plug and remove the cap.
I did the same as Mike. I tapped the brake wire behind the tail light (crimped, solder, and heat shrink of course) Used the 4 pin trailer type plug. That way I had one for brake light, one for cargo light, and one for ground. Ran the wire up under the stake pocket behind the left tail light and plugged into the existing harness that was in the cap already. Some plastic loom and you cant even tell its there. Not planning on taking the cap off (unless I put stacks back on ) but the plug will make it easy.