2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission How to test AC Condenser for clog?

[Newf Limo]

So, as we figured out on the 911 forum, the AC condenser line blew at the coupling to the left of the condenser.



Since most of this AC should still be under warranty since a lot of it was recently replaced, I was wondering if there was a way to check the condenser for a clog, before they just claim it is clogged and replace it anyways? Is it as easy as unbolting the other connector and blowing some air through it? Will that screw something up?



There is a possibility that the connection was not put together properly, but, since the condenser doesn't seem like it was repaired, I am not so sure that it was ever taken apart. So, can the system get clogged? It has a new compressor (that may not be disengaging, even when AC and Defrost controls are not set, as was the case at the time it blew), a new accumulator(?) and a new evaporator. The evap was replaced the second visit, as they said that there was a leak there, so the AC failed to stay charged after a couple weeks after the initial repairs.



Is there some sort of check valve or something that can fail closed, and with a compressor running continuously, over pressurized the system? Grasping at straws here.



Here are the pics of the issue...

 

[Bob4x4]

Your plugging theory points more to the orifice in the liquid line if a blockage caused the fitting to come apart at the outlet of the condenser

 

[Bob4x4]

Usually when fittings come apart it is due to incorrect assy or the lock not being installed correctly

 

[mweiman]

Is that the line that the orifice tube is in? Maybe they had it apart to flush. Also I think the compressor will run with the controls set like you have them in the picture.

Matt

 

[Newf Limo]

Matt, that should just be fresh air, not AC. Otherwise, the compressor would run all the time. It should only run in the AC mode or Defrost. That would be the two symbols with the snowflake for AC.

Just as a follow up. The lines at the condenser had never been apart. The liquid was dye from a previous service. They believe that when it went in for its second repair, to replace the evaporator, the mechanic didn't evacuate the air from the system before charging it with freon (or whatever they call it these days). They said that that caused an excessive amount of pressure.

I'm skeptical, but time will tell.

Thanks for the input though.

Cheers

 

[Bob4x4]

Matt, that should just be fresh air, not AC. Otherwise, the compressor would run all the time. It should only run in the AC mode or Defrost. That would be the two symbols with the snowflake for AC.

Just as a follow up. The lines at the condenser had never been apart. The liquid was dye from a previous service. They believe that when it went in for its second repair, to replace the evaporator, the mechanic didn't evacuate the air from the system before charging it with freon (or whatever they call it these days). They said that that caused an excessive amount of pressure.

I'm skeptical, but time will tell.

Thanks for the input though.

Cheers

The High pressure switch should have opened and the compressor shut off before a line failure occured

 

[EMAC2]

The High pressure switch should have opened and the compressor shut off before a line failure occured

Agreed. The way to tell for any restriction is with your gauge set. Plugged orifices give pressure readings that indicate the issue. It appears your A/C folks are not very good at troubleshooting... .....

 

[B.G. Smith]

Just a couple of observations. Several things will make the discharge pressure high, restricted air flow through the condenser, too much oil in the system, too much refrigerant in the system and air in the system to name a few. If the system has the correct charge of oil and refrigerant the orifice plugging won't cause extremly high pressure, the system just won't cool. The refrigerant will all condensed in the condenser and the compressor should cycle off on low pressure if it has a low pressure switch. Ask an old timer about "pumping down a unit". Also high pressure wasn't the root cause of the connection coming apart, it was either not assembled correctly or it wore out from movement which would be unusual. The clip in the picture is not what holds the connection together, there is a groove in one end of the connection and a "garter" spring in the other, the spring in the groove is what keeps it together. The "o" rings and the spring are supposed to be replaced anytime the connection is opened. If the dealer is doing your work, you need to find another dealer. bg

 

[Newf Limo]

I should be picking it up today if I can get to town. BG, that is great info but you may have missed my earlier post that said that the connection had never been apart. It was factory assembled in 2000. I'll run it for awhile and see what happens. They said it was air in the system and the mechanic they had working on it, isn't working on it anymore. We'll see. At least I now know what it is and that I can drive it if it happens again.

Thanks guys.