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Howling Trans.

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tire wear

Oil Pressure

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My Getrag has healthy growl when I get lazy and don't down shift :rolleyes: , I had the transmission rebuilt when I built my crew cab. The Getrag just sings the same old tune day after day. My fix is, I just ordered a NV4500 transmission and conversion kit out of Columbus OH. Looking forward to a quieter cab. Hopefully it will be here in a week, anyone want a getrag cheap ? :D



Kyle
 
I do!!



I'm nearby, I'll come and get it if you are serious. I have a critically wounded Getrag in my beater W250. I need to get it back on the road...



Andy
 
Ok I think I am going to buy or borrow a press, buy the rebuild kit and attack. I will let you know how it turns out. Any suggestions on which clutch I should go with?
 
Autozone sells the EXACT (13" Sachs with cast cover) replacement for 499. 99. It is the one I used. The first gen clutch is superior to 2nd gen units, even the ETH 245 HP 13" clutch. I think the first gen clutch is being marketed by some as a HiPo replacement for the stock 2nd gens. If you find a replacement for "249. 99" it is the 2nd gen style 12. 25" unit with a stamped cover. The only reason I replaced mine was that I had a bad Throw-Out bearing. The disc, pressure plate and flywheel were fine at 140,000.
 
Howling transmission

Originally posted by J DeMaio

Hey guys:



I've noticed that mine growls in 4th-5th when at a very low RPM and the throttle then matted. After it gets to a certain RPM it stops, I've been told it is the throwout bearing. What do you guys think?



Thanks,



John



John I bought a 1990 5sp that had lots of chattering at low RPM's That drove Dodge crazzy!! They put in a new transmission, a new clutch and a heavier fly wheel. The fly wheel seemed to help the most. But they also said in a TSB to keep the RPM's up by changing gears at a higher MPH. They said to keep the RPM's above 1400 when changing gears especially in 5th And use Texico 5w30 motor oil.



I have had the truck since Feb 1990 and haven't had the first problem in 150K mi tn the transmission. The same oil is in there that the dealer put in when he put the transmission in never beem changed> Still have the same clutch in there too, still gets about 22MPG.



If you float the gears but still use the clutch the transmission and clutch will last many many miles. by floating the gears I mean marry the rpms with speed of the new gear that selected( when you let out the clutch in the new gear the rpm remains the same). I have done that with all of my vehicles and have never had to put in a clutch. I put a million miles on an 18 wheeler and still had the same clutch, same driveline coponents in it and in good shape.



I hope I haven't bored you too much but hope this will help some.



Frenchman
 
Manual transmission Temp

Originally posted by JLEONARD

bflood,

I like the T fitting idea with the temp gage. That is what I will do.

What temps do you see on the transmission?



I made a heavy haul yesterday. Towed GN trailer at 16,500# to tractor pull about 90 miles one-way. Had plenty of steep grades. Temp gauge never budged off of bottom mark of 140 degrees F. :) :)

This is with the overfilled transmission (TWO quarts). Sorry, I don't have a benchmark with normal oil level.

If the gauge never reads anything I won't complaign. Still cheap insurance. We'll see what happens on a hot summer day.



EGT's were running high. :mad: I had to back off throttle, and shift early, while climbing to keep EGT temp under 1250. I have more mods to do. Thinking of freeing up restrictive exhaust system. I gotta keep cost down so I might start with eliminating the muffler (if I can stand the noise)?
 
Re: GETRAG Oil Overfill - Warning

Originally posted by bflood

. . . to overfill the new transmission, I plumbed a 4" external vertical capped standpipe out of the fill plug. I used standard plumbing brass hardware. I also used a Tee fitting, instead of an elbow, and installed a temp sensor as cheap future insurance. It could've been difficult to fill but I had a simple, cheap plunger pump that screws onto a plastic windshield washer fluid bottle. Works fine. :) :)



Warning!!! My standpipe had a failure. :eek: :eek: The brass material is not strong enough (in particular the horizontal close nipple coming out of the transmission)! Last weekend I was changing transmission oil and found the close nipple coming out of the transmission was broke, leaking, and almost ready to fall off!! I was lucky to find it when I did.



I replaced the close nipple with a galvenized steel close nipple for strength. If I were to do this over, I'd use all steel fittings.



I hope I have not caused anyone any grief.



Bruce



Other than this problem, its working fine. I have six quarts of oil (2 1/2 extra) and I'm only half way up the standpipe.
 
ooops

I realized when I was referring to the "5th gear bearing" in my first two posts in this thread, I meant to say the "rear bearing" on the output shaft . This is the roller bearing at the end of the shaft, next to 5th gear. Not the actual bearing in 5th gear. Sorry for the confusion.
 
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