Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) hp= heat. do i need bigger radiator

[TWhiting]

i have a 98 12v. with 450+ hp at the wheel, and tow toys that when all hooked up weigh in the 12,000-15,000 lb. range. if pulling hills i get right to the top of my operating range (215 deg. i think) my fan comes on at 190, and makes alot of noise so iknow its engaging, i has flushed my radiator, inspected what i could see of the core, and it looked fair, so before i go and pull this thing, should i have it rodded, buy new oem, or buy alluminum. truck has 194,000 miles on it, and to my knowledge its the orig. radiator.





on unrelated subject, just had 370's put in now truck takes 4-7 seconds to start when warm or cold and if not started every four hours truck will hard start. and quick guesses, will a air pocket hang around for ever or will bleed out over time. i. e. 50+ miles.



u guys rock glad i'm apart of this.

 

[CRohwedder]

Well if you have the hp that you say you have, that is quite a bit to be pulling the load that you are, i dont think you would benifit from getting a difernt one, but wouldnt hurt to get it tested to make sure everything is ok with it. You might want to think about getting a valet switch for the towing that you do, you can get them from ATS or Piers. That will cut your power out put down for towing and might help with the temps. As far as the hard starting problem, i wouldnt think that an air bubble would hang around for that long but i could be wrong, maybe somebody with more expierience will chime in.

 

[EKlem]

Try taking a pressure washer and blasting the grime out of your radiator fins. It is amazing what can build up in there.

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

TWhiting,

1. Pressure wash the outside of the radiator, especially the engine side. Has helped many guys with your problem. Also, make sure the t-stat is working properly and is the correct temperature. If it is not a Cummins t-stat I would not put it back in. Have seen other brands not work properly.

2. It sounds as if you have a leak somewhere in the fuel system that is letting air in after shutdown. Try priming the fuel system with the primer bulb, if the hard start disappears then start checking by inspecting the supply and return fuel hoses that go from the engine to the frame rail. If those hoses are in good condition then start checking all connections in the supply side including the fuel heater, fuel filter, lift pump, etc. My guess is the supply/return hoses are bad. Replace them with a marine grade hose.

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[TWhiting]

i will check all that stuff, and as far as a valet switch, i dont understand how that would work for a 12v, unless you had a valve with and orifice in it to decrease the air into the afc. maybe even go to a bigger turbine housing. i have 70mm on now maybe an 80 or will that kill my steetablility. i have 3. 55and 35. been thinkin goin to 4. 55, do have a 4kgsk, but dont want to lose freeway eco.



thanks again for all your guys help.

 

[CRohwedder]

Thats exactly what the valet switch does, it cits the air off to the afc, not cuts but limits. Might be something to look into.

 

[Cooker]

IIRC I had a converstaion with Piers at one time and he suggested that near 425 continuous HP was about what the stock cooling system could keep up with, as you have already found this out. I don't think there was anything at that time that he suggested would really make a huge impact on improving the efficiency of the cooling system.