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HVAC Blower Motor

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I have had a intermittent issue with my HVAC blower motor. It stops working then starts working again. Today it stopped twice and the first time I bumped the ignition while the truck was running and the motor started working then later on it stopped and will not come back on. It's not the fuse. Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Check the resistor block? Although the ignition switch certainly seems suspect in this case.

The motor doesn't run in any fan setting?

-Ryan
 
[SIZE=+0]No motor function, the AC light will come on but nothing, I have switched between defrost to recirculate and don't believe the blend door is working. [/SIZE]
 
Seems that EVERYTHING on the truck is managed by the instument cluster... I had to replace 4 instument bulbs years ago and since then I have had a few electrical issues

1-The park indicator not working had to reseated connectors on cluster fixed that problem.

2-Parking and Head lamps flashing on and off, reseated the connectors on the cluster and fixed the problem.

3-Now the HVAC motor not working so reseated the connectors and fixed the problem. Put the cluster back in and motor quit working again. Removed the cluster and using a small flat head screwdriver I slightly bent each and every pin (three male connectors) in hopes that the pins would bind against the female plugs. Seems to have fixed it for now.
 
Seems that EVERYTHING on the truck is managed by the instument cluster... I had to replace 4 instument bulbs years ago and since then I have had a few electrical issues



Great. You just talked me out of replacing the burned out bulbs in my truck. I knew it was going to be involved, but with the problems you had I think I can live with it for a while longer.
 
I found the pin out for the instrument cluster and can't find anything that controls the blower motor. Although I was able to reseat the 3 connectors and get it working it still make no sense.

Will continue to research, if someone could give me insight that would be a big help.
 
Ignition switch gone bad

Found the problem, but leads me to another issue. Today while idling in the parking lot the blower stopped once again. So I left the truck running and was getting out and tilted the steering wheel up and the blower came on, long story short this is the second ignition switch that has burnt up. Is there a place where I can get a new pigtail that plugs into the switch? below is the second switch, the wires on the plug do not look any better.
 
Dang, having the same problem as you SWithrow, the blower motor had intermitently stopped and started on it's own before, but it just decided to quit all together tonight. GRR! won't have time to check into it until friday, but will be sure to check the cluster wiring! P. S. I checked the fuse also, it was fine. Thank you so much TDR breatheren!
 
Dang, having the same problem as you SWithrow, the blower motor had intermitently stopped and started on it's own before, but it just decided to quit all together tonight. GRR! won't have time to check into it until friday, but will be sure to check the cluster wiring! P. S. I checked the fuse also, it was fine. Thank you so much TDR breatheren!

Check the ignition switch and connector(Left side of the column) it is a 14 pin connector, pull it and see it the top two pins are arcing. My connector was blackened so I am ordering a replacement connector (#5183 441aa) and will splice it in.

--Scott--
 
Mine did that about a month ago, I just removed the pin connectors and cleaned them, I may look into ordering the new connector you listed. FYI if you dont want to cut and splice the wires; if it is a factory type connector you can remove the keeper ring and pull the good pins and insert them back into the replacement connector. Just takes time, a pick tool, and patience, If you already new this then disregard.
 
I have had two ignition switches due to the connectors in the plug, the keeper ring and plug assembly are both toast, the pins will not stay in the two top positions. The harness is not long enough nor flexible enough to use the tilt steering. I have set it to one position and that is where it will stay.
 
I am having the same problem, it just started yesterday. I smelled something like electric wire burning... then my blower quit working. I was about to buy a new blower motor, then I saw this thread. Tried tilting the steering wheel up, now it works... but if I tilt the wheel back down, to my normal spot, it doesn't work.
So what is the fix for this?
 
I just took the plastic off the steering column, removed the plug from the ignition switch, removed the plastic retainer clip, removed the individual spade connectors (burnt ones are on the top) cleaned them good with wire bush, etc, then reassembled the connector ( in the reverse of dissasy). used some dielectric grease to prevent further corroision, no problem ever since. :)



THe spades are a little tough to remove, there is a small plastic tab retaining htem in the connector, A small pic and to hold them back and you can pull the wires right out. (then they snap right back in on reassy)



Good luck...
 
Check the ignition switch and connector(Left side of the column) it is a 14 pin connector, pull it and see it the top two pins are arcing. My connector was blackened so I am ordering a replacement connector (#5183 441aa) and will splice it in.

--Scott--



Mine just started this problem today! The blower motor stops and goes - if it is not working and I tilt the column it starts up again. Can you confirm the part number please? I need to order one. Any pics/instructions on how to replace it?

Thanks


George


PS - is this what I need? http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2006/dodge/ram_2500/steering/ignition_switch.html
 
Also check the resistor block for bad (corroded) wires, cracked resistor assembly (updated part is out), and the connector at the blower motor itself. (Wiggle the blower motor connector to see if it starts up.) FCA makes a connector repair kit for the blower motor, but, the resistor block wire repair requires a complete $100+ harness kit. The connector for the HVAC harness to the resistor pack is behind the passenger kick panel. (This is separate from the plug to the ign switch that can also burn up.)

I understand some have installed a relay to bypass the overloaded ignition switch with the high current blower motor.
 
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