HX 35 onto a 1st gen. Kinda.

[RSchwarzli]

Cerb.

Oh. Gotcha. Thanks.



As for the two of you, I do not worry so much about egt. I find with the enclosed car trailer with car I run 17k truck and trailer and on the long 7-8% grades at 95F, I pull 1300 egt (never really over even running WOT and for me that is 33psi) but my coolant temp is what makes me need to back off. I have run this hill many times with this load and even run it with dad towing his car in his enclosed with the stock mega and we move the same speed up the hill (75 mph). His coolant will get warm but mine gets hot! I have even shut off the AC and while it helps it's not great.

And that sucks cause it means he beats me to the top!!!! :-laf

 

[NIsaacs]

Hmm, I'd be afraid the EGTs would climb really high when you downshift at 22-2600 and go to full throttle to pull the hill... ... why I asked...

Ok... I gotta ask... why would you want to down shift at 2200-2600? What turbo are you using? At 2200 rpm, all my trucks are just getting into their stride. From 1800-2200 rpm they pull the hardest, with the most boost and run the coolest. At this rpm I can bend the floor board if need be and do.



Nick

 

[HHhuntitall]

dodgenstien, I guess I'm mistaken. I thought the HX35s were 14 from the factory, unless they had the auto. I guess I have CRS disease... ...



Hmm, no, sorry, I meant downshift and bring it up to the high rpm... . I downshift around 16-1700, as the EGTs get so high. On my old '96, I'd downshift..... oh wait, that never happened... . sorry.



Bschwarzli, I understand on the heat. I don't haul heavy with this truck during the summer, as it won't take the heat, either. Winter, though, is a different story... ...

 

[NIsaacs]

Hmm, no, sorry, I meant downshift and bring it up to the high rpm... . I downshift around 16-1700, as the EGTs get so high. On my old '96, I'd downshift..... oh wait, that never happened... . sorry.

Okay, my bad, I understand things wrong regularly I was like Ray Stevens and the "Hair Cut Song" He was worried for his hair!! I was worried for your truck:-laf



Nick

 

[cerberusiam]

I find with the enclosed car trailer with car I run 17k truck and trailer and on the long 7-8% grades at 95F, I pull 1300 egt (never really over even running WOT and for me that is 33psi) but my coolant temp is what makes me need to back off.

Thats the problem with I have with the smaller comp wheel and a 16 housing. Not enough good air in the 15-25 psi range. Just needs better air in that range to run 3. 55's and 17-18k or the long steep grades are a killer.



The rest of the time its good but I have way more fuel than turbo so its right foot thing most of the time. A 60 comp wheel on a 12 houisng is going to run the DP up but it will make better air in the needed range.



You think engne temp is bad with a manual, try an auto. THAT can get interesting at times. I have to run it in drvie TC unlocked to get enough rpm to keep the EGT's down then the engine temp limits the speed.



Just need more air. :-laf

 

[ENafziger]

Robert,

If you look at my "Improving the Ride" thread, you'll see on there where I installed a HE351cw turbo from a '06 Cummins.

As Cerb said, the only thing electronic on them is the wastegate controller. Many people (and I followed the herd), remove this to install a manual boost elbow. I don't think this is the way to go necessarily.

Quick reasons why... it takes a certain amount of fueling to spool a turbo. If you're currently making 33 psi max boost, you don't have enough fueling to push the 351 outside its map. In fact, until you're over the 400 hp level, you're still moderately ok with this turbo.

A manual boost elbow is always leaking a little bit of the compressed air stream. True, it's not a large percentage of the flow, but nonetheless. If you simply provide 12 volts to the electronic solenoid, it makes it a 30 psi boost pressure wastegate control.

Alot of people (again, me included) drill out the existing wastegate hole to 1" or 1 1/16". However, again, I don't think this is necessary or beneficial unless you're really pushing the turbo with over 450 - 500 hp worth of fueling.

Any questions feel free to ask.

I think the 351 would make a Jim Dandy turbo paired with an HX55 in a set of small twins.

--Eric

 

[RSchwarzli]

Thats the problem with I have with the smaller comp wheel and a 16 housing. Not enough good air in the 15-25 psi range. Just needs better air in that range to run 3. 55's and 17-18k or the long steep grades are a killer.



The rest of the time its good but I have way more fuel than turbo so its right foot thing most of the time. A 60 comp wheel on a 12 houisng is going to run the DP up but it will make better air in the needed range.



You think engne temp is bad with a manual, try an auto. THAT can get interesting at times. I have to run it in drvie TC unlocked to get enough rpm to keep the EGT's down then the engine temp limits the speed.



Just need more air. :-laf

Hmmm. All makes sense. In my case I am still stock injectors (wheel power 284/720) so I guess I don't have the fuel dump to run my EGT too high. Actually runs very well with no smoke with my current setup. Nice balance.



Also helps I am running the Getrag on the 3. 07s with a Gear vendors so I can run 4th up hill and still do 65 MPHat 2200 rpm... . Or 75 MPH at 1800 (enter engine temp issues here! ).



Yes, I know the automatic issues. Thats why the 1990 is now a stick! :-laf

Robert,



If you look at my "Improving the Ride" thread, you'll see on there where I installed a HE351cw turbo from a '06 Cummins.



As Cerb said, the only thing electronic on them is the wastegate controller. Many people (and I followed the herd), remove this to install a manual boost elbow. I don't think this is the way to go necessarily.



Quick reasons why... it takes a certain amount of fueling to spool a turbo. If you're currently making 33 psi max boost, you don't have enough fueling to push the 351 outside its map. In fact, until you're over the 400 hp level, you're still moderately ok with this turbo.



A manual boost elbow is always leaking a little bit of the compressed air stream. True, it's not a large percentage of the flow, but nonetheless. If you simply provide 12 volts to the electronic solenoid, it makes it a 30 psi boost pressure wastegate control.



Alot of people (again, me included) drill out the existing wastegate hole to 1" or 1 1/16". However, again, I don't think this is necessary or beneficial unless you're really pushing the turbo with over 450 - 500 hp worth of fueling.



Any questions feel free to ask.



I think the 351 would make a Jim Dandy turbo paired with an HX55 in a set of small twins.



--Eric

Eric,



That makes sense. And in my case that also explains why the turbo I have works so well. I do think the HE would be overkill at this point.



I fully agree with you on the compounds. And as soon as the project is done, the 5600 goes into the 1990 to replace the gut bag and then I can handle more power! Just have to be careful not to grenade the gut bag till the 350 is done as I dint want (and can't fund!) that many projects at a time! :-laf