Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) I A T cleaning was fantastic

[badams1]

I have an EZ and 275 RV injectors but really could not tell that much difference after the injectors were installed. I did it because the truck just wasn't quite responsive, or powerful enough pulling my 5er. I changed out the EZ thinking it was bad but not so. Now I had also done everything else respectable, 4" exh, guages, T/C, valve body you name it. Many$$$. I chose the 275's for mileage knowing that they are supposed to be 30-40 hp. Its a 2001. 5 auto, quad, 2wd w/ trail pkg. and I love my truck. "Heres the point" I finally got around to cleaning the (IAT) intake air temperature sensor the other day after 15k mi and OH my GOD! Man this thing went from fast or OK to unbelievable in one simple task. When I romp down now the rear tires light up. Now that is a big change from the sluggish wait til 1200 RPM then go to spool up power that was just OK. Im wondering why Cummins put that thing so close to the valves where it can get dirty so easy. I have a Pac Brake that I use when pulling but thats only 2% of the time, then its off. Does anybody see any merit to moving that sensor to another area of the intake manifold away from the combustion exposure? What do you think guys? :--)

 

[DEZLPWR]

Why do you only use your Pacbrake 2% of the time? I hardly ever tow, and I use my Pacbrake ALWAYS... . Why not? It will sure save your brakes. Plus, I have heard that if you don't use your exhaust brake often it can cause it to stick.

As far as answering your question, sorry I can't help you there.

 

[Justice Dunn]

Where is the intake air sensor and what's involved in cleaning it

 

[badams1]

IAT guy

I don't use the Pacbrake all the time but I do use it about once a week to keep it limbered up. I am familure with the non use issue also but around town unloaded the brakes are not that big a deal for me. This thing stops great and the BD T/C set up uses lockup to give a very simular braking effect as a built in feature. Its a great set up. I read here in TDR that using the exhaust brake would foul the IAT sensor more often. Thats where I got the idea to clean the sensor. Obviously somebody was right because my sensor looked bad. Like I said a world of difference in performance.

 

[RBSOB]

Relocating IAT sensor

I haven't had time to try it yet..... but it is a fairly common BOMB. Supposedly good for 10-30hp on a dyno. Trick is to locate a new sensor in your filter housing and run the wiring to it. Leave the old sensor in place. Your new sensor now "sees" only cleaner and cooler air and increases fueling slightly . Again, I haven't tried it yet but I know a couple of people that insist it works, even on gassers. It is logical. Any one running this way? Jim G.

 

[fest3er]

Re: Relocating IAT sensor

Originally posted by RBSOB
I haven't had time to try it yet..... but it is a fairly common BOMB. Supposedly good for 10-30hp on a dyno. Trick is to locate a new sensor in your filter housing and run the wiring to it. Leave the old sensor in place. Your new sensor now "sees" only cleaner and cooler air and increases fueling slightly . Again, I haven't tried it yet but I know a couple of people that insist it works, even on gassers. It is logical. Any one running this way? Jim G.

Of course, your intake heaters will no longer function quite properly, but CT doesn't get *that* cold, does it?

Fest3er

 

[JR2]

It would not be that hard to switch between the sensors if you made a big pig tail sort of set up. I remember reading about a memeber who made a resisitor set up to tell the engine it was geting real cold cold air... ...

 

[curatchko]

I have 48000 miles on my truck now, and after reading peoples descriptions of their IAT sensors needing cleaning, that I decided to have a look see... .



I pulled it out and I don't think it's ever see a dot of oil or any dirt... . it's as clean as it was out of the box. Almost 50K miles.



So for the people with oil on their sensors, better check the rest of the intake system, because that don't sound right.



Could be another K&N problem.

 

[mcoleman]

It doesn't have to be dirty to be bad or off. I changed mine at 93000 miles and it looked clean but the truck still gained 1. 2 mpg. It was good for a :--) out of the wife. She thought it was already getting good mileage.

 

[SnoKing]

Mine's clean at 8-9K and I put in a K&N when the truck was new. SNOKING

 

[RBSOB]

Not too cold

Fest3er, you are right, not bitterly cold here and I believe some years we get even less snow than when I lived in Va. !! But by leaving the old IAT sensor in place, it should be a 1 minute procedure to move the plug from air box back over to manifold if one finds that the heater grid is cycling for too long. I may have a chance to check this out on a dyno 9/28, for hp effect , not intake heater!! Any one running this way? JimG.

 

[csevers]

just changed sensor

I just baught a new IAT sensor the old one had been cleaned twice and I ohmed it out at about 80 degrees and didn't match the reading that some marco guy had given out so I ordered one the new one ohmed diff to old one with about the same temp ( not scientific) but close after one day I would say it helped enough to notice the diff in responsiveness and more smoke easier no time to check mpg yet I have noticed before any of this bombing that my truck could run reallllllllll good some days and not others maybe this is the problem? Don;t know 87k and loving every mile of it

 

[Diesel Freak]

read this

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11726

 

[KEarnest]

and this

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54493