Archived I can't get it to prime

[Dave Remillard]

I just finished changing the return and supply lines, and now I can't get the sucker to prime. I've pushed the prime button somewhere in the neighborhood of 800 times. I've cracked the injector lines and still no go. It did start once, but ran real rough for a couple seconds. That was about 400 pushes ago. I have the prime loc setup, and I'm wondering if it isn't the problem. I removed the fuel lines from the original filter location while doing the lines. Is it possible that if the lines are not put back on correctly or the way they came off a possible reason. I think I got it correct, but this project has been one from hell, and I suppose I could have gotten them on wrong. It's acting like it's got an air lock. Thanks

 

[Joe G.]

You may have caused yourself more work by cracking an injector line. The way I prime it is to loosen the screw (10mm wrench) on top of the fuel filter on the injector pump side supply line. Pump the button until you get clear fuel from there. I will be off line for about six hours so if that doesn't work I can't come up with another guess for a while.

 

[Dave Remillard]

Still no Prime

I did as Joe suggested and was able to get fuel to run clear. Tightened 9it up and spun the engine over. It fire, ran very rough, and then it was like it ran out of fuel. I've checked and re-checked everything, but the only thing I can find is a wire for the water in fuel light circuit is broken. I don't think this is something that will stop things from running is it? I also (after several pumps on the primer) lifted the water drain and fuel came out under alot of pressure. Seems like it should not have pressure there with the engine not running. I'm really at a lose here guys. The last attempt I made was to start over with Joes idea, and now I can't seem to get fuel there now. Lift pump and overflow are new. HELP!!!

 

[Alan Reagan]

I think you are going to have to crack the 10 mm nut again. Prime till fuel runs clear. Then crack three injector lines and crank it over making sure you are getting fuel there. Tighten up the lines. Accelerator to the floor, crank it up and keep it running adjusting throttle as you get all the air bled out. It will run rough until the air is out of the system.

 

[Ron Bissett]

Do as others suggest and in between put a charger on the battery to charge but disconnect while starting LOL Ron in Louisville KY

 

[MidwestMotorman]

Check all of your connections. If you have a manual, make sure that the inlet and outlet lines are in the correct location. I don't think you could mess those up, but it has been a long time since I've worked with a 12V.



Remove your fuel tank cap and make sure you are not creating a vacuum in there.



Open that bleed valve and manually pump that sucker (I think there is a bleed valve toward the front of the injection pump). It really is a test of endurance to use the manual lift pump. If you get fuel, close the valve. You may have to crack a couple of injector lines to get air out of the pump and pressure lines. Or have a friend open those connections while cranking the engine over.



In a worst-case last-resort scenario, you could make your engine run with starting fluid or WD-40, but you will have to have the preheater disconnected. Make sure you do not overheat your starter.



I suspect you have a bad connection somewhere that is allowing you to lose your prime or you are not opening the bleeds far enough or long enough. I hope you get it started!!!

 

[MLee]

lost prime

no-stroke

do as the others have mentioned, but if it were me i would start with the bleeder on the filter housing. do you have the newer prim- loc filter head? i have the older one(butterfly shape) it has two ports on it. to prime i pull one of these plugs till fluid comes out. just follow all the way to the injector, and prime and crack fitting. process of elimination. check and see if you are getting fuel at the filter. maybe those lines are backward on the filter head. WORK THAT PRIMER. hope it all works out. take five, and think it out.

just my penny;s worth

marv.

 

[Dave Remillard]

Thanks MLee... . I did have the prime loc, but removed it and went back to the original filter location w/new filter. Here is what I have tried thus far. Pressurized the fuel tank, opened the bleed screw on top of the filter housing,and pushed the primer until all air bubbles where gone. I then cracked a pump side pressure line and primed until fuel showed up. Re-tightened that one and then cracked open three injector nuts. Turned the engine over until fuel appeared, re-tightened the injector nuts and started the engine. All is fine until it runs out of fuel. Either the new transfer pump has died, or it's getting air someplace. I can remove the filter after doing this and its only about half full. I have checked and checked and then checked some more, but still can't get this fuel problem resolved. If anyone has more ideas I would really appreciate what you got. The only thing I can think to try this morning is to remove the inlet side fuel line to the fuel heater and have the wife turn the engine over while I hold a finger over the opening. I would think I could feel a suction if the transfer pump is working correctly. After that I'm lost. Thanks to all for the ideas.

 

[MLee]

re: no prime

no- stroke,

sorry to hear that your still having problems. go back to what you did before it died. check the inlet hose, and maybe replace it again with a different , or better grade hose. doesn't the tubes that the hose connects to have a ridge on them? maybe what has happened is, the hose has peeled inside and filled the tube on either end, or both, restricting fuel to flow freely when there is a big demand for it, like when running. you probably have used a high grade hose? for the inlet. just looking for solutions. good luck.



Marv.

 

[Dave Remillard]

Thanks Marv... I did use a good quality hose for both lines (marine grade diesel) and double checked to make sure I was past the bards with the clamps. Is it possible that when I replaced the overflow valve and used copper washers on both sides of the banjo, that this may somehow be a source for air to get into the system? As you can see, I'm beginning to reach pretty deep. The only other thing I can think of is the transfer pump has failed me even though it's new. However when I was able to get it started for a few minutes, I could give the foot feed some pressure and build RPM's. Because of that, I don't think the transfer pump is the culprit. When I find the problem it will probably seem like a simple little thing I should have looked at better. Thanks

 

[Dave Remillard]

Finally got it Running

I'll make a long story short, but finally found the cause of the problem. On the injector side there is a fuel return line, and I found one of the bolts to be a little loose (possible air leak). At the same time I removed the two new lines just to see if anything was blocking them. On the supply line from the fuel heater at the end that the rubber hose attaches to, the distance between the bend in the metal line and the expanded ring on the end was only about 1/2". The hose clamp may have been to close to that ring and I wasn't getting a good seal. At any rate between these two things it finally runs. Thanks to all for your suggestions. It's incredible how such a small air leak can mess things up.

 

[Alan Reagan]

Thanks for posting the solution.

 

[MLee]

good for you

no-strokin;

glad to hear that you found your problem and your on the road again. some times it does'nt take much to put us down.

good luck, keep on truckin.



marv.