Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) i changed my lift pump and

[vaicase]

i changed my lift pump and it was pretty self explained the easy way, is to take off the filter housing and the banjo bolts and watch for them gaskets they are easy to drop i did not buy new ones i just used the old ones and it was hard to seal. i got the pump from cummins it was 155. 00 including the 7. 00 wire harness ihad to buy because my pump was original that did include tax. the hardest thing was lining up them washers and priming it i just cracked the main pump lineon the injector pump and bumped the starter it gives you about 10 seconds of run time and tighten the line and crank it up it will turn quit abit but when i got it started it up my pump pressure went from 8to 14psi at idle to 12at 60mph up from 6 and from0at wot to no lower than 6 psi no mater how hard i pound on it i am getting the larger banjo bolts and washers from genos garage on monday hope this helps someone please reply with your comments thanks

 

[Lsfarm]

Sounds OK to me

It sounds like your pump change went well. The pressures are what you should be seeing with a brand new pump



The trick with the banjo bolt seals/gaskets is to thread them on the banjo bolt then put the bolt through the banjo fitting then thread the second seal on the protruding threads, this way you can't drop the seal while threading the bolt into the pump.



Keep everything loose untill all the lines and mounting bolts are in place and aligned, then tighten everything up. I've never had a leak on a stock pump swap, or with reused seals.



When you get your new banjo bolts, thread them into the old pump to see if they thread easily!! Sometimes the new bolts have thick cadium plating on them and this makes the thread diameter too large and they thread very difficultly into the pump. The time to find this out is while at the work bench, not when leaning over the fender and fumbling around in the engine compartment.



Best of luck.



Greg Long, The noise nazi