I hate changing the fuel filter on my 6.7L Cummins.

[Jim W]

I have changed the fuel filter at least 8 times since new and to this day it is still not easy job for me to do. I spill fuel every time I change the filter and struggle to get the filter on and off with the clearances that are provided in this area. I do try to drain the filter into a jug, but for some reason there is always fuel that spills. I also go through the LH front wheel well location with the tire being removed to allow me to get into this area easier, but still it is not easy job for me.

This would have been as service accessibility issue where I use to work and the engineers would have been force to redesign the filter location or provide improve accessibility to the filter. With a rework package for the machines built this way.

Sorry; I just had to vent about this!

Jim W.

 

[RVTRKN]

That's why they changed it for the 2013 and up. But I just did mine on the 2014 and fuel was every where. I found out the hard way to crack open the filter first then drain it, then remove them (two filters for 2013 and up). I have never done it on my 2007 which should be the same as yours Jim, but will in the future so I can get proficient at them. Dealers are asking way to much nowadays, and my budget keeps getting smaller. For the 2014, the dealer quoted me $170.00 just for the two filters, never mind that the labor would be ridiculous and didn't even ask. I've allways had the dealer do my 2007, but it costs too much now, but with only 61K miles, it's only been @four times.

 

[Shadrach]

I've only done my 08 once so far because I've only owned the truck for less than 3 months, but I didn't enjoy it either. On my 03 I had an AirDog and it was easier because it was under the truck and completely accessible. David

 

[Bill Stockard]

This would have been as service accessibility issue where I use to work and the engineers would have been force to redesign the filter location or provide improve accessibility to the filter. With a rework package for the machines built this way.

Sorry; I just had to vent about this!

Jim W.

That's the difference between CAT and a bunch of car designers/engineers who want to be truck designers/engineers.

Bill

 

[RDThompson]

RVTRKN is pointing the right direction. I have an 08' also and I unscrew the filter cannister until its sloppy and then I use the drain to purge the fuel. This results in much less fuel on the ground, your arms and shirt and everything in between. I'm with you on the access issue, I have huge bloody hands and a lot of things on this truck require a work around for me to get the job sorted.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Shadrach,

Question on the Airdog....Does that eliminate the stock filter location and put it on the frame? I'm really done with trying to change my 2010 CC's fuel filter, wanting something easier, any ideas?

 

[Grubby]

(2007.5 6.7 2500 Big Horn) Roll under the vehicle and attach a 3/8" clear tube (about 8") permanently to the fuel drain using a nylon cable tie and insert a removable tube plug. You'll also need 3' of poly drip irrigation tube (firm but flexible), a wide bucket, auto nitrile gloves, one use shopping bag, citrus degrease spray, lint-free paper shop towels, a small 3/8" ratchet, 1.5" long 3/8" extension, and 1/2" male to 3/8" female adapter. When ready (after setting the parking brake and wheel stops), roll underneath, disconnect the sensor, unplug the 3/8" plug, slide the irrigation tube over the 3/8" tube and then into the bucket. Rotate the drain plug counter-clockwise 1/2 turn or until the fuel starts to trickle. Roll out and take a 5 min break. Roll under, snap the adapter into the bottom of the fuel filter housing, then snap the extension into the adapter. There is enough play where you can tilt the adapter-extension slightly aft and find an opening where you can snap the ratchet into the extension. Note the orientation of the drain plug to some reference point for reassembly. Rotate counter-clockwise with gradually increasing pressure until the filter housing starts to turn freely. Remove the adapter-extension-ratchet. Slowly rotate by hand until fuel starts to trickle out of the drain plug. Roll out and take a 10 min break. Roll under, remove the irrigation tube, and insert the 3/8" plug. Roll out, from the driver-side wheel well opening use the shopping bag to cover the 3/8" tube and filter housing, and continue to rotate the filter housing until free. Twist the bag opening and remove contents through the wheel well opening. Use spray/towels to mop up residual fuel esp on the vehicle. I've never cut myself and only spill a couple drops. Please dispose of the fuel via your county's waste disposal site and burn the filter, bag, gloves, and towels in a burn can (properly supervised with a bucket of sand and a fire extinguisher on a low fire advisory day) and recycle the metal. Decision to post clean-up = 45 min.

Reassembly tips:
Apply clean diesel engine oil to the area on the filter housing where the o-ring is seated. When the o-ring is in place, liberally apply engine oil to the o-ring. Do not reuse the o-ring. Tighten the filter assembly by hand and then only an additional 1/4 turn using a ratchet. Use a MOPAR filter. Never put contaminated fuel back into the fuel system.

 

[SKrugerud]

Lol, changed mine for the first time and made quite the mess as well. You’re in good company.

 

[surfbeetle]

My points of reference for this are my '16 6.7 and my '95 12 valve. A large zip loc freezer bag can come in very handy when changing filters. On the oil filters I'll drop them into the ziploc and seal. For the fuel filters, the '16 front filter I have to drain and swap the element but the rear filter by the axle, I will drop into the zip loc bag and then get it out where I can change the sensor over to the new one.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

My points of reference for this are my '16 6.7 and my '95 12 valve. A large zip loc freezer bag can come in very handy when changing filters. On the oil filters I'll drop them into the ziploc and seal. For the fuel filters, the '16 front filter I have to drain and swap the element but the rear filter by the axle, I will drop into the zip loc bag and then get it out where I can change the sensor over to the new one.

I use ziploc bags on my filters too. Makes life a lot easier.

 

[Jim W]

My points of reference for this are my '16 6.7 and my '95 12 valve. A large zip loc freezer bag can come in very handy when changing filters. On the oil filters I'll drop them into the ziploc and seal. For the fuel filters, the '16 front filter I have to drain and swap the element but the rear filter by the axle, I will drop into the zip loc bag and then get it out where I can change the sensor over to the new one.

Will the 2007.5 trough 2013.5 are not al all like the other model years as far as the fuel filter is concerned. The fuel filter on the early 6.7L engines is down low on the LH side (driver Side) of the block. About a foot above the front 4X4 axle and behind the inner fender wheel well covering and buried by electrical wiring. I tried to access the filter without removing the wheel and inner fender well also removing the wheel and fender well. Although time consuming in removing the left front tire and wheel well it is far easier to get to the filter out. A plastic bag will not work in that area at all. I have tried to do this but forget it. The filter has to be tipped to get it out between the frame rail (over the top) and the sheet metal that supports the battery and ECM in the engine bay.
Now as to the oil filter I do not spill any oil in removing this filter just simply unscrew and drop it straight down being careful not to tip the filter. I dump this in to a oil catch basin that I use to use when changing my oil on my old gas vehicles.