I Hate Messy Wiring

[Hummin Cummins]

Between the scanner, cb, blue light, roll bar lights, yada yada yada electrical stuff, tried to do the neatest and still easily accessable wiring job possible without having to gut the entire truck. Anyone have ideas, solutions, pics of how they handled the electricals in their rides? Would like a central mounting area for relays, fuse blocks, etc. maybe under the hood so each can be marked for troubleshooting.

Chris

 

[SpeedBump]

I know a lot of guys have the "painless wiring" setup. I think they also make a waterproof version for under the hood. I don't have it but maybe someone has a link to them



Hope it helps!



Eric

 

[Joe G.]

Chris,



I had a pretty bad mess at one time and got sick of it. The solution for mine was to wire up a switch panel that I installed where the stock cup spiller is on my '95. Some switches are live all the time and others only when the ignition switch is on. The switches are all connected to a multi-conductor cable that goes thru the fire wall. I used project boxes from Radio Shack for two banks of relays that are connected to the cable. These relays supply power to the various gadgets. Another project box contains the fuse block for the gadgets. Since the relay only draw about 10ma I just tapped into a fuses B+ supply for the always on switches and the "run" circuit from the ignition switch. Doing it this way allowed me to run a high current supply from the battery output to the fuse block to power all gadgets. I put a diagram of the fuse assignments in the lid of the fuse project and a diagram of the relay applications in the lid of the relay project box. It was quite a bit of work, but it's easy to maintain and looks good too.



I got a Geno's Garage Cup Smoothy for the cups. It's a lot better than the stock cup spiller.

 

[Hummin Cummins]

Joe,

Thats pretty much what i'm thinkin about. Got the smoothie after the coffee on the radio incident:{ Seems as though everything i want to add takes power and switches and cant stand all the splicing and searchin for more power terminals.

 

[RADdodge]

I know what you mean about keeping the wiring neat. I did a lot of wiring on our rig and when it came to fixing the install for the alarm, aux. fuel pump, aux. tank, etc. , I opted to install it all in the stock PDC (Power Distribution Center) under the hood. I spent days looking for the little connectors used in the box and couldn't find any. Tried Dodge and Jeep, tried the local auto electric shops, etc. Finally checked out the junkyards and purchased a used (very used) PDC. Used the connectors, relays, and fuses in my PDC to add all the stuff we needed to add. I added 5 circuits and 1 relay. You would have to look close to see the extra wiring looms coming out of the PDC. I wish someone that knows the vendor that supplies the PDC would help us zero in on the manufacturer. It is comparatively easy to add circuits there if you have the parts.

 

[Deezul1]

I mounted a plate under the dash with 2 fuse blocks holding 4 fuses ea. 1 holder is wired hot all the time and the other is only hot with key and the current is feed to it through a relay mounted on the panel. Very easy to add things, remove the knee bolster and its right there.

 

[Evan A. Beck]

Doing everything in the PDC is the way to go. I am currently researching a source for the connections, and it looks promising.



But until then, a good way to go is to use a Painless wiring kit. They are available from Jeg's and Summit, along with lots of other electrical accessories. Whatever you do, DO NOT use scotch-locks or t-taps under any circumstance whatsoever. You are asking for trouble if you do. Weather-Pack connectors and soldered splices are much more reliable.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

Ditto!

Though I've never met the man I respect Evan's expertise so I'm gon na be his echo. Using wire piercing connectors or taps that can migrate with vibration is a recpie for disaster. Once you pierce the jacket of a cable in any exposed location oxidation can part the wire or corrode terminals in short order. Rosin soldered connections or equivalent are preferred, coated with a good liquid vinyl. I was 'milspec' trained by a guy who designed NATO comm hardware (Dad) and was taught very early all electrical connectoins must be mechanically bulletproof before they can be electrically reliable. Use the best quality, heaviest jacketed wire you reasonably can. A 20 ga wire might carry the current or signal but an 18 or 16 will withstand stressing better. Dangling wires are weak, try to support your harnesses against stable chassis or body hardware where you can and use bushings & looming if you pass through something—don't assume there won't be much chaffing (there will). Remember you may need to bypass, test or remove the device so provide connectors: SureSeal (website) makes a number rated to above 20 amps. Deutsch OEM-style connectors, good to 10 amps are available through MSD accessories dealers (2 - 16 pin), Molex-style connectors can work but only inside the cab (no sealing gaskets). One thing I always forget - try to leave elbow room for the regular maintenance stuff as you're routing - step back and look for what has to come out and go back in on a regular basis. Recently I've seen ads for RF remote-control switching for accessories but I think they're new enough to be an unknown. Good Luck!!

 

[DieselDoghouse]

An addemdum (then I'm done) on wiring into the PDC. Since my '98 has several vacant fuse and relay positions I did exactly that. I found a source for spade connectors with the tail clip that will secure them into the the terminal slots. If I can find the Mfr's info I'll post it (most spade QC terminals will fall right out when the relay or fuse is pulled. That way your added wiring in a shielded location.

 

[LSMITH]

I have used the industrial type of RF switching on machines and it does in fact work. In harsh environments I have found it to be more reliable than cabling as there is less to get damaged. Transmitter range is a limiting factor as is the frequency, I am not sure if it would interfere with any of the vehicle electronics. The majority of your electronics in your vehicle are not shielded. It is also quite expensive to buy.



The points made by DieselDoghouse about connection type and integrity are LAW, follow them or else! There is no more frustration problem than an intermittant problem caused by being in a hurry or shortcutting a job.



JoeG's multi-conductor cable is the clean simple way to add your circuits, remember to buy a cable with at least 10% spare conductors (20%+ is better) for future expansion and repair if a cable is damaged.



My opinions, hope it helps.

 

[CoreyPerez]

Autozone

Just for your information. I bought 2 fuse blocks from Summit Racing, and the other day I seen some at Autozone, exact same things, just not from Painless. The price difference was about $5 for Autozone's & $10 from Summit Racing. These "blocks" hold 4 fuses. Currently I've got 2 used, 1 supports the gauge lights & the other one supports the ISSPRO Temp monitor. Last night I pulled out the fuse block to add in a constant power from the battery and put 2 leads on each of the 2 remaining outputs. Its pre-wired now so I don't have to keep pulling it out. I'm now going to re-wire my acc. for constant power so I can charge my cell phone with the truck off, wire in the CB, Jordan brake Controller & work light switchs for the bed & trailer.



Just my opnion. I'll post pic's when I'm done.



Heck, I may have to start a site for my ram!



Corey

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I have been thinking of cleaning up my wiring, and since I will be using a number of relays by the time I'm done the Painless Wiring kit did not look like the ticket. They have nice fuse packaging but no relays that I could see. They also seem overpriced.



I like Joe G's idea, a project box with a couple of realy a fuse banks. While I haven't scoped things out yet I think I would mount this under the dash vs. underhood for a nice clean environment. I will drill a hole in the firewall and bring all the wiring through in one spot encased in wire loom with a grommet in the hole.



Vaughn

 

[Spooled-up]

I've got the same problem...

I built a center console and have a birds nest of wires in the console that I'll be cleaning up with some of that plastic coiled wire wrap stuff when I get the final two gauges installed. You can see the painless wiring fuse block inside. I ordered it from Geno's. It's the non - waterproof version. Here's a pic of my mess: