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I may have to get a 68RFE in my new truck.

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Guys I may have to get a 68RFE equipped new 19 truck however it does have a 4.10 rear end so from what I was told that helps a bunch.
I was told that if you put a big pan and a bypass block on the transmission lines that it could live quite a long time the RV I am going to be pulling is 14000 so that should not be a real problem and I drive like an old lady so I baby the truck but still we may go over the rockies and big hills from time to time.
Also there is a metal coupling that goes on the screw in ATF transmission filter that helps alot from what I was told ok guys I HAD HEARD HORROR STORY'S ABOUT THE 68RFE now I was also told the converter now has two or three friction discs so it is much better.

This person told me the NEW 2019 68RFE IS MUCH IMPROVED AND MUCH STRONGER???????????



Here is the truck................ https://www.31dodge.com/new/Ram/2019-Ram-3500-kernersville-e8d7873b0a0e0a173a9c5812d60be1eb.htm



Stuart

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Stuart: I have been towing a 2016, 34RL Cedar Creek with my 2008, Dodge Ram Mega Cab truck with the 68RFE auto since May of 2015 when I purchase the trailer new. I do use a Mag-Hytec AL transmission oil pan with a probe in the pan for temps. Nothing else on my transmission was changed to allow me to pull this trailer in fact I have a SMARTY S67 that adds 60hp/120lb.ft. TQ at the rear wheels over stock. I have never seen transmission temps over 200F when towing in 90deg ambient air.

I do service the transmission regularly and I do add the additional 3qrts of oil that the pan requires along with the two filters that are required. that's about it for me. I now have 127K+ miles on the truck. You should be OK with your truck and transmission in my humble opinion.
 
Sounds good is yours a 4.10 rear end, from what I heard that really helps and takes the beating of the OD.

My friend is a transmission fix shop guy and he seems to think the 19s have more friction discs in the converter.
 
again I don't know if my friend is correct but he said that if you put the the bypass I think it's called a bypass cold and hot bypass block and he said if you put that filter the filter threaded do doohickey thingy that that will help big time I think it's called the bypass park right that's it the bypass block and a coupling that goes on the screw on filter that's metal I think it's like $30 and you put the big pan and supposedly the thing would be golden golden from what I understand especially when you use a large pan on the transmission sorry I'm using voice-to-text if I sound so nuts with voice to text is not always work correctly thanks guys yeah I found a truck that I think will work it's a very basic Julie as you can see above and it's only 59 60 whatever it is but it's got plenty of power and with the 40R and 410 rear end that things should go up hills like a beast.
 
Again
I don't know if my friend is correct but he said that if you put the the bypass I think it's called a bypass cold and hot bypass block and he said if you put that filter the filter threaded do doohickey thingy that that will help big time I think it's called the bypass park right that's it the bypass block and a coupling that goes on the screw on filter that's metal I think it's like $30 and you put the big pan and supposedly the thing would be golden golden from what I understand especially when you use a large pan on the transmission sorry I'm using voice-to-text if I sound so nuts with voice to text is not always work correctly thanks guys yeah I found a truck that I think will work it's a very basic Julie as you can see above and it's only 59 60 whatever it is but it's got plenty of power and with the 40R and 410 rear end that things should go up hills like a beast.
 
You don’t need the bypass block and you don’t need the metal coupler on the screw-on transmission filter.

The above are simply more examples of companies trying to lighten your wallet.

I know several trucks running the 68RFE way into the 400k plus mileage range.....all bone stock, with nothing but fluid and filter changes.
 
Sounds good is yours a 4.10 rear end, from what I heard that really helps and takes the beating of the OD.

My friend is a transmission fix shop guy and he seems to think the 19s have more friction discs in the converter.


ONLY thing the 4.10 does for the 68RFE is allow it to accelerate from a stop on grade better. Nothing wrong with the 68 as I have towed 28-29k with one with 3.42's, BUT having owned BOTH get the AISIN 4.10 combo.

More engine power and a true Medium Duty trans. While you are at it get the rear air. Quit F-ING around and get er dun!
 
The 68 needs NOTHING!!! Here is my pan changed OE fluid completely to AMZ/OIL at around 5k. This pic is at 65k towing WAY over 1/2 of it'e miles 28-29k combined.
IMG_2014.JPG
 
I'm far from an expert anything but these all look like solutions in search of a problem. If you plan to keep your truck stock drive it and enjoy it. If there's an issue within the next 100k miles Ram will take care of it. Conversely, if you start throwing aftermarket parts at a brand new transmission and that part fails your probably going to be up a creek without a paddle.
 
I'm far from an expert anything but these all look like solutions in search of a problem. If you plan to keep your truck stock drive it and enjoy it. If there's an issue within the next 100k miles Ram will take care of it. Conversely, if you start throwing aftermarket parts at a brand new transmission and that part fails your probably going to be up a creek without a paddle.
The only one I give any level of positive improvement is the transmission pan.
 
The only one I give any level of positive improvement is the transmission pan.

I've always been curious about the benefits of added capacity, particularly when following OEM intervals. I would think there would be no improvement in temperature aside from maybe taking a little longer to get there. With that being said it certainly couldn't hurt anything.
 
Another thread :eek:

You're getting a beast of a camper, get a beast of a truck. If it takes a little extra time then so be it.

DRW
4.10's
AISIN (not only for added strength, but also more power)
Auto-Level
5er prep (Lets you run the B&W RVK3600)

Get those things and find the the trim you want to match. Order it if you have to, but really all you're doing is kicking the can down the road. If you really want, not just think you want, that 5er and a truck then get the right one.. It's WAYYY too much money to settle on a few hard parts you didn't really want.

Really about the only thing you don't need to worry about is gearing. It will drag that 5er around all day with 3.73's or 4.10's, heck even 3.42's would be fine if they were still offered.
 
We are talking 15000 difference in the two trucks.

Low but nice dollar truck...... https://www.31dodge.com/new/Ram/2019-Ram-3500-kernersville-e8d7873b0a0e0a173a9c5812d60be1eb.htm



Super duper nice but high dollar truck.https://www.31dodge.com/new/Ram/2019-Ram-3500-kernersville-b84710c30a0e0adf28121c458e91b1b1.htm


One 60000 the other 76000 just need to figure out what is the best path I know I have been going over this for a while.

15000 dollar difference my transmission guy said the 68 would be fine in stock form with a 4.10 even more fine and he would not worry at all he knows I drive like an old lady on slow motion.
 
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