I need a little help.

[KennyM]

I'm getting ready to purchase a truck just for Drag Racing.



I'm looking for input on what you would buy if you had an open slate. Example, 12 valve vs 24 valve, 2wd vs 4wd, and last 2500 vs 3500.



I really need to start getting serious about buying a truck and have it ready for spring. Right now I'm thinking a first gen D350 2wd reg cab with auto and stacks.



I want all forms of input and opinions, why you would do it one way or why another.



Thanks



Ken

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

I'd go with a 97-98 regular cab 4wd auto w/3. 54's. If you go with the 97 or 98 (possibly 96, can't remember) you'll get the best P7100 pump (I'm sure the 12v guys will chime in on this one). With the 12v you'll have the option of a governor spring kit to up the revs. 4wd is definately the way to go for traction. JMHO

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Truck JUST for drag racing......

Here's my input on things.....



1st Gens are cheaper, lighter, and have TONS of room under the hood for 'go-fast goodie' add-ons.



2nd Gen 12-valves have the p-pump... . but there's no law that says that the 1st Gen VE pump can't put out good power..... nor is there a law that says you can't put a p-pump on your 1st Gen.



I'd slap some LOW gears into a beefy axle... ... loose all the weight that I could, slap on some HUGE slicks, put in a full cage, twins, modified p-pump, water/meth injection, custom Spearco intercooler, single stack, built auto transmission with transbrake, etc.



4x4 is good for traction... . but HUGE slicks properly heated with a good suspension setup will easily overcome the 4x4 traction advantage.



4x4 adds to the complexity, cost, height, and weight of the truck.



How fast do you want to go?



Matt

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

Jeff Garmon has gone the 2wd slicks route (with a nascar truck body BTW) and when I talked with him about a race truck he said that if he was going to do it over again he'd go 4wd. $. 02

 

[HoleshotHolset]

I wonder if it's because the engine is so heavy and it's throwing off the weight balance so bad that there's NO weight over the traction wheels?!



Maybe that's why Doug Doring and Doug Sotira's (sp?) truck have severely shortened their frames to try to put some weight on the rear axle.



Doug Doring's truck runs low-mid 9's. I don't know his short times... . but suffice to say that he isn't having much problem getting the power to the ground.



If he can make a full pass without oiling down the track..... - that's a different issue.



George's Little Red Cummins Express is nice and short - I wonder how he's gonna hook up with that thing? It at least emulates both of the Doug's trucks model.



Matt

 

[KennyM]

Thanks for the input.



One thing I was thinking with 2WD, I would put the Batteries in the bed over the axle in a custom case. Also the hood would be replaced with plastic, fiberglass or carbon fiber.



Whats your input on a 3500. I know HP loss due to extra rotating mass, but what about the possible gain in traction from the extra tires. When I dynoed my last truck it was right in there with the 2500's in HP and torque that had the same mods.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

With a 3500 - you're almost 100% guaranteed that you'll get a Dana-80... . so it'll be a stronger axle. PLUS - you could run HUGE slicks instead of 4 tires in the back with the included fender flares. No offense to the 1st Gen guys/girls/trucks... but the 1st Gen fender flares look like they were bought aftermarket..... they look horrible compared to the 2nd Gen trucks' fenders.



Again - how fast do you want to go? This helps me make up my mind as to where to spend the budget.....



Depending on how long your frame is... . putting the batteries right over the axle might be a bad idea. Think of it in terms of leverage..... 100# over the axle would not have the same mechanical advantage as 100# hanging out by the tailgate.



Since we're trying to offset a 1000# engine under the hood - we need every advantage we can get..... like weight transfer, etc. - it takes a lot to hookup a 5000# truck with 800hp/1600ft. -lbs..... especially when all the weight is chilling out towards the front 1/3 of the truck.



Matt

 

[KennyM]

If I go 1st gen, I would only run what the stock pump could put out. With the proper person working on the pump, I should be able to get low to mid 400's. I would run this for the season to get used to the truck and driving it on the track. This also will get me at the track with a solid truck for low $$$. The next season I would upgrade to a p7100 conversion/twins/better flowing head ect. if needed.



Someday I would like to be in the 11's or even 10's, but first I need to get the best vehicle. I think the 13's would be a good starting point. Also 4wd 2500 is not out of the question, as it would leave the bed 100 percent useful.



Ken