Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) I need a power recipe for my 98' 2500 4wd

[TWilhelm]

With tax season right around the corner i'm looking to invest a bit of money into my old 12 valve, i'm looking for the best recipe to build a bit more horse power without the egt sky rocketing and without spending thousands upon thousands of dollars. This truck is bare bones stock with no modifications to date. I would ideally like to get the truck somewhere into the 230-250 hp range. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm completely new to this modification game and don't quite know where to begin, any input/advice would be greatly appreciated and i would like to thank you in advance for any help.

 

[MLee]

TW;

First off Welcome, looks like your a newbie with 4 post. Need a little more info about your truck, you say bone stock 12 valve, Is it auto? or 5 speed, how many miles?

Do you know if the Dowel pin has been done, Problem if it falls out. If you go to much clutch could go out, or auto trans could go. 230-250 is about the limit on stock set up.

TST is a good place to get the uprate kits, and they are what they say they are. E-bay has stuff but not reliable as per there description. First off install gages, so you have an understanding of what the engine is doing. Read as much as you can on these forums about increasing the power and how to make proper adjustments to keep the power and reduce smoke. You are looking for that fine tune to keep you low to no smoke and the power at your toe for go. I can not say it enough---READ_READ_read. till you have a head ache. And ask questions, remember, there is NO DUMB question.

 

[The patriot]

1st thing. Gauges. At least egt and boost.

You should be able to get the power you want with a simple plate swap.

If you have a 5 speed, the clutch will be marginal.

If it's an auto, you'll need to beef it up first.

I have the 98 12 valve with a 5 speed. The only mod I have is the marine injectors. I'm told this puts me around 250-260 HP. The clutch has been holding out on me, but I want to install a cam plate..... the clutch will need to be done first.

 

[Diesel Dummie]

First step is to get a set of gauges if you dont have them already, if you do then that is a good first step. I would do a fuel plate,maybe a #100 or a TST#5, turn up star wheel just a touch to help the bottom end. Next get a hx35/40 hybrid turbo, that will clean up the extra fuel and leave some room for future improvement if you feel the need. This should give you the goal you are looking for and the ability for adjustment in the future. You should be able to do all of this for under 800. 00 buying all new stuff.

if i can help more let me know.

Chad

 

[mweiman]

How many miles are on your truck? I think a mild set of injectors are always a good option to consider if you have many miles as you are getting freshly serviced injectors(maintenance) and the power bump you are looking for.

Matt

 

[TWilhelm]

Well the truck is an automatic, it is 4wd,quad cab long bed and it is sitting at right about 172,000 miles, the front seal was removed about 6 months ago and re -sealed to repair a severe oil leak that had started well before i purchased the truck, my mechanic and i knew about the kdp but no repair kit was installed he just drove it back into place before buttoning it all back up. Like i said though it has not had any modifications done to it to my knowledge. This truck was apparently used as a daily driver out here in the oil field in northwest new mexico, so not many of the miles on this truck are "highway" as most would try to refer to their trucks. Yet it still runs pretty darned good, i use it to go out in the same terrain in the fall to gather firewood and it is a beast under a good load, but it just doesn't have that get up and go that i'm looking for. The only thing i have to compare it to is my 2006 3500 with single rear wheel, automatic transmission truck with the 5. 9 24 valve which is also completely stock and which doesn't do much work at all,(darned shame ain't it) But i'm looking for more power without messing with the stock turbo or intercooler if i don't have to. I have seen some 50 and 75 hp injectors online but am not sure whats best nor any mods i would need or need to anticipate performing in order to maintain its driveability. I know when modifying these trucks there are many things to consider such as excess smoke, lower fuel mileage, higher egt, concerns about boost pressure or lack there of so im just kind of confused on where to begin.

 

[Skydiver]

Gauges, about $2500 to make the transmission ready (and that's the cheap route). If you don't do the transmission now you will only have to do it later. More fuel, more air. Then some timing. Next thing is More fuel and that's going to need some more air. It goes on and on. You will not be happy with the 250 horse range. You can say that 250 horses is all that you want. If true you will be a first. A few more tax checks would be a nice thing. To do it right and hold together figure around $6000. That will put you in the 400 horse range.
My preacher bought a 98 2x4 auto and has spent nearly $7500. He is making 434 horse and well over 800 ft. lbs of torque. For some reason rear tires remain on his shopping list. I just tried calling him to get an excact figure. No answer.

 

[pwerwagn]

Buy a rebuild kit from DTT, ATS, etc and get all those parts installed. Get a good VB from someone, and a single disk DTT convertor. You should be good for 350-400hp then and be in it for less than 2K$. Do a plate, some decent injectors, and a turbo. Those are all up to you.

The "funnest" my 98 12V ever was, was when it was making 550hp with a dodgezilla turbo. It got really hot, but had instant power anytime. I think if you ran a similar turbo (WSB, super b, s300g, dodgezilla, pdr35, etc) and stayed around 350-400hp, you would be really happy. My dodgezilla has been on 2 trucks since my 98, and I got it used. Its still chugging along, through 4 trucks and lots of abuse.

--Jeff

 

[Midnite]

I don't think I'd mess with injectors for the power level you're looking for. After gauges, I'm thinking a plate, 3000 rpm governor spring kit, and advance the injection pump timing to 16 degrees.

The transmission mods would be extremely good to do as well, and there would be definite advantages in doing them before the engine mods.

 

[Skydiver]

I don't think I'd mess with injectors for the power level you're looking for. After gauges, I'm thinking a plate, 3000 rpm governor spring kit, and advance the injection pump timing to 16 degrees.

The transmission mods would be extremely good to do as well, and there would be definite advantages in doing them before the engine mods.

I agree, If your stock injectors are popping they will give a finer spray pattern thus burning more fuel,,,less smoke. Just the GSK will wake it up.

 

[TWilhelm]

I like the way that sounds, power without the cost of new injectors but what kind of advantages in the way of more power might i expect from the 3000 rpm spring kit and a new plate? what am i looking for as far as purchasing a new fuel plate and where is the best place to get one? Also, is it true that if i slide the existing fuel plate all the way forward that i can see some decent gains in power maybe 50-70hp without changing the EGT very much?? Im also wondering about the single disc converter upgrade as mentioned above, what kind of power in this spring and plate combo can my original converter handle before i would have to do the upgrade?

 

[Hammer]

Easiest way to make power with a 12v is to call TST Products in Indiana and chat wit Mark and then decide what kit would best fit your needs and still manage your egt's.

 

[RossCo]

I just ran my '97 at BD's Dyno days and got 270 HP. Mine is a 5 speed so it started with more horsepower but all mine has had is the timing adjusted, the fuel plate adjusted, 4" exhaust and an AFE Stage 1 air filter. I also had the gauges installed so I don't burn it up when I am towing. I also did the clutch after the stock one went away.

Paul