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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) I think I killed my transmission

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Ok, scenario: 1995 2500 SLT CC, 2x4, CTD, Auto, 174k miles.



Today while driving I noticed a shudder when the tach hit around 2k.



Drove about 50 miles on highway, doing ~70mph at 2k rpm.



Let sit for a few hours.



On return drive I find first gear to be virtually non-existant. Much rev to 2500 to get to move.



Once rolling 2nd gear seems ok, shudder a bit at first then goes. 3rd seems fine.



Get onto highway, truck is extremely slow to accelerate--top speed is 45mph. Turning off O/D does no help.



3/4 of the way hope drivetrain is slipping as I see revs jump up and down a few times.



Get off highway to my house and just about every gear doesn't exist except for reverse. transmission overheats, so I shut it down for 5 mintues.



Light goes off, I put it in first which just causes me to roll backwards but it suddenly catches and makes it the extra 500 ft to my driveway.



So, from my limited experience, sounds to me like the transmission is toast. I plan to call BlueChip diesel on Monday to see what options they can offer me.



Does anyone have any advice here? I know Dodge auto transmission's are exactly 'built' but i just bought this thing from a dealer last saturday, only put 150 miles on it. It drove great before. The dealer had the transmission oil changed, as a courtesy, and now I have a dead transmission.



Also, since I bought it in NH, they don't have a used car lemon law.



Should I just rebuild this thing (and have it done right since I plan to tow) or find a manual transmission from the junk yard and find a shop to put it in?
 
Its a 95,has to be a 47RH,no limp in mode. Governor could be stuck though. If you bought that truck from a dealer in NY retail,the dealer would have to fix that if under 30 days. Any decent dealer should repair/replace it for you. The option I recommend is go with an aftermarket setup while its out,a top quality TC to go along with the repairs,rebuild,and a valve body. Whatever the dealer will pay,put it towards getting the upgrades done now. Either way a 95 with 175K on it,its probably leaking internally like a siv. Whatever you do,dont skimp on the trans,get it done right. Good luck.
 
If the dealer doesn't do anything for you, (I think they should after only 150 miles :mad: ) then give Massdiesel down in Norfolk MA. a call. He'll help you out and is a good standup guy to boot. Blue chip is another good source but my favorite is Scott at Massdiesel. He did mine and I've been thrilled!
 
UPDATE:



Since I was so pissy when I got home, I just went inside the house. After kewling off a bit, I went back out and found a giant rainbow flowing where I had parked the truck last nite. I then proceeded to check the transmission fluid level and found it dead DRY.



I also called the dealer (before I checked the fluid) and the gen. manager will call me back to resolve the situation, so I still don't know if they'll help to fix my problem or not.



I think if they try to give me ****, I can get them to fix it under service repair labor since they had just replaced the transmission pan gasket.



Now my question isn't so much what to do, but if anyone thinks the transmission was damaged from driving it without fluid? I would likely think so but I have a feeling a dealer might not. I'm not in a financial position to do a rebuild unless I HAVE to and its toast. If the DEALER offers to rebuild or replace, then I'd try to get them to install an aftermarket Toq-Con and Valve Body.



Think any engine damage could have occured due to rev'ing the engine in the 2500 range so much?



I'm just trying to assess every and all damage that may have occured due to a dry transmission (which I CAN blame on them).



(and thanx for the tips so far, they've been great. ) If I do take it to a diesel shop, BlueChip is just 20 miles away as opposed to MassDiesel which is over an hour drive. Considering this truck won't make it out of the driveway, I'd prefer the lower towing bill)
 
Did you check the fluid level when the transmission first started causing trouble? I have had transmissions "jump in and out of gear" because they were low on fluid. When you check it, what condition is it in? Does it still resemble ATF or does it look like road oil?



I fear you have hurt the transmission regardless of the reason it first started giving trouble. If it died because of a leak that left it low on fluid, you MIGHT get the dealer to do something about it. If his work in any way lead to the failure, you might be able to take legal action against him.



I used to own a muffler shop myself, so I am NOT one to yell sue!!! However, there are times when a shop NEEDS to be held accountable for an error... if indeed there is one in this case. It just sounds "fishy" to me that the transmission failed only a few days after he serviced it.



Good luck.



Steve
 
I only got to check it when I got home. It only started really acting up during my return drive, and I just assumed the transmission was shot and just wanted to keep momentum to make it home.



As for what the fluid looks like right now, I couldn't tell you, the dipstick doesn't have a drop of fluid on it.



Interesting question--right before I pulled in my driveway, I got the 'Trans Temp' light to come on. Does that measure the temp of the fluid or something else? If there was no fluid, what would cause that light to come on?
 
The update was posted while I was writing my reply. I really fear the transmission is dammaged, but you can always pour in a few quarts of ATF and see what happens. I have seen transmissions survive after being run low on fluid before.



Although the leak the dealer created certainly is a factor is causing the problem, you ARE NOT without blame yourself! Just think, the dealer might have to rebuild the transmission because you didn't check the fluid level! I hope the two of you can come to an agreement and neither one will feel bad.



Again, good luck.



Steve
 
Well, we are crossing letters like crazy here! First, forget about any damage to the motor. I can't believe you have any damage there.



The trans temp light measures the temperature of the transmission fluid. Since the transmission moved at all, there was still just enough ATF left in the pan to make it try to work. Slipping the transmission overheated the little fluid that was left... not good.



I understand your frustration, but if I had a customer kill a whole transmission just because it was low on fluid, I would not be a "happy camper" either!



Steve
 
Originally posted by WebCrush



Now my question isn't so much what to do, but if anyone thinks the transmission was damaged from driving it without fluid?

Absolutely it was damaged! But I still think they should cover it especially due to the fact the transmission gasket & fluid was replaced!





(and thanx for the tips so far, they've been great. ) If I do take it to a diesel shop, BlueChip is just 20 miles away as opposed to MassDiesel which is over an hour drive. Considering this truck won't make it out of the driveway, I'd prefer the lower towing bill)



I agree with you there too. They are both very reputable transmission installers.





Good luck with everything.



Kevin
 
Like I mentioned earlier, I have seen transmissions survive running out of fluid a number of times. With the money potentially involved here, a few quarts of ATF isn't that much. My personal recommendation would be to fill the trans with some cheap Dexron III (Wal-Mart Super Tec or equvalent) and see what happens. If it doesn't move, it is DEAD. Now you know what you have. If it goes, you can likely make it to a shop and avoid the expense of a tow. If it acts up again on the way, stop and check the ATF level and add more if needed.



Take it where you want to fix the leak. When they drop the pan, they will have a chance to look for pieces of clutch linings and metal shavings and assess the actual damage. You may very well be able to get a cash settlement from the dealer and use it toward the upgrades you want anyway.



Such problems are frustrating and it is EASY to say things we really shouldn't have said... both sides can easily be guilty! Remember, you can catch more flies with honey than vinegar. Be polite and reasonable and you will probably get better results than by ranting... I know it works with me.



Hey, I'll bet you wind up learning some things from this mess! Good luck.



Steve
 
Thanx, keimmmo. I was gonna try some fluid in it today but decided to get some opinions before I wasted any money.



I know the dealer is going to try to stick me cuz they already give me a song and dance about buying it 'as is' even though they guaranteed that it would pass inspection (which obviously it can't). He also gave me a line about the TST torque plate. When they were servicing it, I asked it they would put the plate on for me, just a simple #6. They did with no questions asked but NOW they might play the 'well, we're not responsible for the drivetrain since you modified it' line.



I'll know more when I talk to the owner on Monday.



I have a fair deal I'd like to toss them. I'll take the truck to a third party for inspection and if need be a transmission rebuild and they pay for the towing and 1/2 the rebuild cost. Of course, I'm gonna take it to BlueChip and get a SuperTune with their HD Torque Converter and Valve Body, which will run about 3k. So 1500 out of my pocket, 1500 out of the dealer.



I think thats more than fair.
 
Don't add trans fluid yet

I wouldn't add any fluid to the trans yet. let the dealer 'discover ' the almost empty transmission.



Otherwise if there is damage they can say it is just worn out, not the result of the leak, or their poor servicing of the trans.



If they droped the pan, they would [should] have cleaned it prior to reinstalling it, so ANYTHING in the pan and filter is the direct result of overheating and slipping with inadequate trans fluid.



I think that the dealer should cover a majority of the repair, but this is clouded by the troque plate issue and continued driving with obvious problems



Good Luck Greg L the Noise Nazi
 
too late, I filled it about a gallon and drove for a 1/4 mile, still slipping. Filled up another gallon and drove the 1/4 mile back and it worked without any problems.



Now of couse, that was just 1st and 2nd gear with an empty load. Fill me up and latch on 10k# trailer and I'm sure I'll see problems.



I'm not concerned with there being fluid in the transmission. At the rate it drained out last time, I'm sure it'll be empty again by tommorow morning.
 
I'm puzzled. You said you added a gallon and it still slipped... another gallon and it worked fine. Do you know how to check the fluid level in the transmission?



Forgive me if you know, but there probably is someone else out there who really doesn't know, so I'll tell you how I do it. First, you need to be on a level surface. It is best to check the ATF with the motor hot... it will show more accurately on the dipstick. If you check it cold, just leave it about a pint low. The fluid level will raise with temperature... kind of like the dipstick on the power steering pump that shows one level hot and a different level cold.



Start the motor. Move the shift lever through ALL positions, taking time for the transmission to engage in each position. Leave the transmission in neutral and SET THE EMERGENCY BRAKE!!! Now, check the fluid level with the motor running.



Some times one side of the dipstick will be impossible to read while the other is no problem. Check both sides of the stick. Also, it can be difficult to get an accurate reading right after adding fluid. You might have to let it set and recheck later. Hope this helps someone.



Steve
 
heh, yes I know how to check it. After the first gallon it said it was reading ok so I took for a drive down the street.



Since it was slipping, I said screw it and added another. The reading after that was high but it didn't slip.



Leads me to believe without the extra fluid to keep the pressure up the discs would just slip.
 
Update

Dealer sent a flatbed to pick up my truck, bring it back to their shop and assess it.



Before it came, I parked the vehicle on an incline, engine comparment facing downwards and it just drained fluid from the bellhousing.



I spoke with BlueChip and they think I'll likely need new clutches, overdrive unit. Possible torque converter. Anyone think anything else might be damaged?



Anyone have any clue what that would cost a dealer to do? I'm thinking of just having BlueChip do their SuperTune (3k) and chip in the amount it would have cost them.



I figure the dealer will likely either toss in a Chysler rebuilt cheapo unit. What would that run? 1k?
 
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