Archived I think this post qualifies it as '911'-however I'm not stranded

[raxley]

Hi,

I'm not stranded, I had the truck towed home, and I'm there posting this. I'm sure it's an injector that's been going bad, and finally it put diesel in my crankcase so I stopped driving it and had it towed. I didn't drive it after I checked the oil, so it's a matter of driving it maybe 20 miles or 30 minutes. It was about a quart or less of diesel that I drained while draining the oil.

Is there a good chance that the engine is damaged from the diesel going through the rings? It got hot about 3 times, the first time the stock water gauge was almost pegged to the right, probably 7/8 th's to the right. The other two times were when I was driving to the freeway and it got warmed up way before it usually does and was past the mid point before I hit the freeway and then the throttle was at a 'steady state' (pretty much didn't move the throttle while on the freeway) and it would cool to about it normally is. My egt's were higher, but not in the danger zone (although I know the egt's are the combination of 6 cylinders and not just the one bad cylinder)

I want to have all the injectors checked out-who is good for this-Industrial Injection? I'd like to get some DDP 40 hp injectors (but I think this is another $600, I may not be able to)

I would like to change them out myself (injectors) I think DDP has or had a instruction set how to do this. I'm not a mechanic, although I did put my twins set (Idaho twins-which still work great!) on. I have all the tools, although nothing specialty for the Cummins, just reg tools.

What other things should I be thinking of? I have about $2000 in total money to get it back on the road, but I'm not working, and this is the last of my money.

The truck has had reduced power for quite a while now, it feels like it went down 50 hp over the last few months. I didn't know what caused it, now I do.

The power decrease was before I used bio diesel, which I've filled up with less than 10 times. I know it used to have a bad reputation, but I assumed that now it's being sold from the pump that it meets standards and it isn't going to hurt my engine, am I wrong here?

I've got the Glacier fuel and water filter, then the other filter after that. I do have the stock electric fuel pump that kicks in when the level goes below the newer, bigger tube going into the tank. When the electric pump turns on, the fuel is filtered only by the stock filter which is believe is a 7 micron unit.

Any advice is much appreciated!

Richard

 

[KLauber]

Hate to hear that. No engine codes? How many miles? Other more knowledgeable members will soon comment... .

Ken

 

[raxley]

the only code is p0217, the water temp overheat code.

But the oil was overfilled and I've been checking it everyday so I'm pretty sure the injector(s) are to blame.

It looks like I'm going to get Industrial Injection. 40-50 hp injectors and they will check all the injectors, and the mechanic putting them in (DieselNut Enterprises in Sacramento Ca) has a scope that can check inside the cylinder before the injectors are put in. I'm hoping that the repair involves only the injectors.

I think I need to better filter the fuel when it's low (in my case about 1/3 to 1/4 tank) when the electric pump kicks in. Or maybe a new fuel tank that the outlet is located at the bottom like the stock location so I don't need the dual setup. Maybe temporarily disconnecting the electric fuel pump, so it's running only on the mech pump, if I run out of fuel, I could re-attach the wires so I can get where I'm going.

It's got 65,000 miles. I got it with about 17,000 miles, and it was a rental truck.

 

[Sticks]

A cylinder compression and leakage test will tell you all you need to know about each cylinder. Short of pulling the head there is no real good way to physically look inside the cylinder(s) for inspection.

Given that your truck is a CR, there is a possibility that the fuel in the oil was coming from a bad O-ring, not a weak injector dribbling in the cylinder.

 

[raxley]

Ok-a O ring?

Will this be apparent when I take the injectors out? Is this possibly leaking O ring around the connector tube as shown in Sag2's post in post #8 and post #10 in https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/5-9l-engine-transmissions-2003-2007/148621-injector-install-procedure-photos.html

? I'd like to do this myself, I figure probably 1/2 day (for me, I understand an experienced person can get them out in a hour) I do have to buy a good torque wrench, maybe a click type from Sears?

I don't have the specialty tools but I'm pretty patient and I will be very careful to be clean and not to force anything.

 

[Sticks]

Never done an injector swap on a CR 5. 9, so I could not tell you what all you will need. If the instructions are detailed enough and a tool list, then you already know what you need.

Take your time and enjoy it.

 

[raxley]

update-it's NOT the injectors, after all!

I talked with a mechanic (who sent the injectors to I. I. for testing and repair) and he said I. I. said there was nothing wrong with the injectors.

I'm flummuxed-the mechanic said fuel ending up in crankcase (the reason for pulling the injectors) could also come from leaking CP3 shaft seal, or that the HEAD might be cracked and fuel is coming from there.

I need the truck going, it's getting old asking for rides, but I want to fix the thing correctly too. I've noticed that power was down at full throttle for some time (over 6 months) When I first put on the turbos (2 years ago) I didn't get the air out totally from the radiator, and I really pegged it to the right before I noticed and turned the engine off. Of course w/o enough water it just heated up really fast, but I turned it off as soon as I saw the gauge. It's been at least 30,000 miles since then.

My mechanic said it could have got hot (now I'm talking a couple of weeks ago when I took out the injectors) because of a bad fan clutch, or he mentioned the head.

I guess if I decide to put the injectors back in and see if it's the fan clutch, that I could have somebody check the pressure of the cylinders to see if they are getting full compression)

Is the head a repairable item? Is there a way to check compression by a leakdown testor since the injectors are out. I have compressed air, and it the adapter/gauges fro the leakdown aren't too much I could buy them.

I'm almost 'double guessing' myself now, but I checked the oil about 10 times in a row and am sure that the oil level was WAY over before I pulled the injectors.

Any and all advice very appreciated.