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I wander what my truck is doing?

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Im trying to figure out whats making my truck wander all over the road after replacing several parts. It doesn't pull one way or the other, but more of a dead spot when the wheel is centered and several degrees in each direction. When Im driving on the highway, it kind of takes off one direction slightly, then I correct it and its almost too much and goes off the other direction.



Here are the parts that I installed last month:

Carli Balljoints - Upper and lower

Carli low mount steering stabilizer

PSC steering box stabilizer

Front axle u-joints (464's)

08 upgraded steering system & pitman arm

Michelin LTX M/S2's

alignment



Yesterday I had a buddy rock the steering back and forth. Everything looked tight. The only thing Im unsure about is the trackbar bushings. I replaced these about 1. 5 years ago (25,000 miles). It looked like there was about 1/16" of movement or less in each end. Is that enough to render them bad?



My best guess to this whole problem is the steering box. I tightened the adjustment on top of the box about 3/4 of a turn total already. It seemed to help only slightly. There was a little fluid leaking from the nut on my last adjustment so I backed it off slightly and it stopped. The truck has 147,000 miles. I've contacted Redhead about cost, and I think I'll go with them if thats what needs replaced. Just trying to eliminate everything else before I drop the money on a steering box.



It just sucks when you drop this amount of money into it and it feels worse than before. My wife said "I thought you were going to fix it?" Im assuming that making everything else tight just uncovered the real problem.
 
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Before you start replacing parts, jack up the front end and remove the tie rod from the spindle. Make sure the wheels turn freely from left to right. If you have a tight ball joint, the truck will never track correctly no matter what you do.
 
I had to change Ball Joints at 70,000 miles on the '06.



I only went with the Moogs and it did not handle well after reassembly. A lot of people were blaming the Moogs but they have always done well for me so I kept on driving it.



What I discovered was that it took about 10,000 miles before it really started to handle well. The first few thousand miles it behaved as you describe, I call it memory steer.

All those new parts at once, I guess. Those ball joints now have close to 50,000 miles on them and it handles like a car.



Maybe you just need to throw some miles at it.

Plus you are super sensitive in regard to the handling as I was after all the work was done.



Also you are on brand new rubber which adds another odd sensation of it's own.



Just my opinion... ... :cool:



Mike. :)
 
Plus you are super sensitive in regard to the handling as I was after all the work was done.



Also you are on brand new rubber which adds another odd sensation of it's own.



You are correct, I am super sensitive to the feeling, however I expected it to be a lot tighter, not looser. It actually scared my wife to drive it, because it wanders all over the place. Something is definitely wrong. Just need to identify it.



As far as the tires go... I replace the parts then had the tires changed a week later. Before the new tires went on, it was wandering all over. I was just hoping that the alignment was way off. So I know its not the tires.
 
Get the alignment checked and crank as much positive caster into it as you can. Positive caster helps with "return to center" feel.
 
I had the same issue. Your Ball Joints are binding under load, the weight of the truck. I had given the Moog units a try after 10,000 miles of really scary driving I gave up and installed Carli uppers. was night and day almost drove like a new truck. Last year I replaced the lowers with a set from Dynatraxx. The Cari's lowers were on back order and alot more money. After almost 60,000 miles the Moogs lowers were still binding and binding bad. As soon as I installed the Dynatraxx lowers I thought I died and went to heven the truck never tracked so well nor did it respond to the smallest input from the wheel smooth as silk. I now have over 90,000 miles on the Carli uppers and about 30,000 on the Dynatraxx lowers everything is holding up very well with No wear showing. Most ball joints are ment for the gaser trucks and can't handle the extra weight of the diesel engine. As for Caster you don't want more than about 4-5 degrees of positive caster. Any more and your steering box along with your arms will always be fighting the crown of the road. The truck will always want to roll down hill, pull to the right in the right lane and left in the left lane. Any moe than about 1/6-1/8 of an inch toe in will cause your tires to wear really fast on the outer edges. Hope this helps you find your issue with your dead spot in your steering.
 
Your Ball Joints are binding under load, the weight of the truck. Hope this helps you find your issue with your dead spot in your steering.



So you're telling me that my brand new Carli ball joints, that have less than 2,000 miles on them, are binding and causing my problems?? I REALLY hope this is not the case!!
 
Your steering box adjustment probably did away with

The center in the box

These boxes do not respond well trying to

Tighten them
 
So you're telling me that my brand new Carli ball joints, that have less than 2,000 miles on them, are binding and causing my problems?? I REALLY hope this is not the case!!



Pop the tie rod ends loose and you will see that is not the problem ;)
 
I had a 79 3/4 ton Ford that wandered bad, a friend adjusted the steering box tighter. It was never the same, handled worse, bound up and would not return to center. was like driving a tractor. I know it's not the same truck, but same basic steering box construction. I think the screw wears in the middle with the most use, when you tighten the screw it binds at the ends that do not see as much use.
 
I had just the opposite experience. Dealer replaced my leaking gear under warranty, a couple thousand miles later it was loose. I adjusted it a couple of times to get it just right and it's been great for the last 60K+. YMMV.
 
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Just curious here but why replace everything else steering related and not the box itself as well? You have most of it. Just finish off with a Thuren track bar and a Red Head box. Make sure the tie rod end are in correctly and job done. My truck was at the point where my wife did not want to drive it either. After the 08 steering carli upper and lower bj carli high mount ss, Red Head box,PSC brace, Thuren track bar and control arms it's great nice and tight, you move the wheel and the tires move. I did have a tiny bit of twitchy bump steer, a little bit of positive castor and she is all good.
 
Just curious here but why replace everything else steering related and not the box itself as well?



Last I checked, I couldn't get anything for FREE. Thats why. It took two and a half years to save money for the parts I've already replaced. Who knows where Im going to get the money for a $400 steering box... The track bar is out of the question until next year! I'll be MORE THAN HAPPY to take donations though.
 
The steering box should not have an effect on tracking if everything else is correct. It can have play, that's another issue. The truck should go straight down the road with the Pitman arm disconnected.
 
The steering box should not have an effect on tracking if everything else is correct. It can have play, that's another issue. The truck should go straight down the road with the Pitman arm disconnected.



Ive read a lot of similar posts to mine where wandering and not tracking straight was solved with a new steering box.
 
What happens when you let go of the steering wheel? What happens when you let go of the wheel after making a turn? Does the truck keep turning, or does it return to straight ahead? That's not the steering box doing that, it's the front end geometry. Its natural tendency is to go straight ahead, unless something is wrong.
 
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