I want to install an AC on my PICKUP canopy

[hammersley]

to keep my dogs kool when I stop at a place where I can't take them - eating - etc. I was thinking of putting an RV ac on the roof and running it from an AC/DC converter or a gasoline gererator. The problem with a generator is that I would want it secure so that it could not be stolen or shut off! So I couldn't just chain it to the truck! Now without a trailer attached..... has anybody made a nifty rear compartment for one..... ideas... ... I liked the idea of just having the diesel fast idle and run a real commercial quality inverter BUT I don't like the idea of inviting somebody to break into the truck... ...

 

[Hoefler]

The best thing you could do is to install a generator head on the engine. You would still need to keep the truck running with an inventor or you would have dead batteries, but you most likely will burn up the alternator.

 

[Mikey-KE7LBB]

RV units require a lot of juice to run and will drain a large bank of batteries in a hurry.

I have 6 deep cycles + 190W solar panel in my RV and upgraded to a larger inverter to run AC, but it won't keep up with the power that it draws for very long without running the generator.

 

[RustyJC]

One of the fellows in our Texas Boomers RVing group hangs a Honda EU2000 or EU3000 (can't remember which) on one of the basket carriers that fit into his receiver hitch. He plugs his 5th wheel RV into it and fires it up to run one AC about 1-2 hours before he stops for the day to pre-cool the RV. You could rig something like that to run a 13,500 BTU RV AC unit on the roof of the camper shell, assuming that the structure of the shell could support it. One more consideration would be routing the generator's exhaust away from the camper shell somehow.



Another approach, if your transmission has a PTO takeoff (like the NV5600), would be to locate a generator that you could run off your PTO while you're away - of course, you would have to leave the truck running to do that. It would need to produce some pretty clean 60 cycle, 120V AC power, so you might have to find an inverter-type generator like the Hondas. Working off the top of my head, a 13,500 BTU RV AC will draw around 20-25 start-up amps and 12-13 running amps @ 120VAC.



Rusty

 

[mwilson]

A small T/K unit like you see on top of the flower delivery vans would do it, they use an engine driven R134A compressor.

Truck will have to idle but if you could score a used one from LKQ for example it could be a fairly priced solution??

Worst thing would be obtaining the vehicle specific compressor mounting bracket kit for your truck.



Try searching "Street Boss", "STB", "V-250", "V-280", to get you started.



Small as they make will be big enough, you are not trying to transport popsicles so you don't need a huge capacity.





Here are a few links to the new stuff just to give you an idea,



Urban Refrigerated Transport - Thermo King Innovation



http://innovation.thermoking.com/pdfs/Direct_Drive_Brochure.pdf



Mike.

 

[Road Dog]

I have two ideas:
-- A truck boot to seal the cab and canopy and use the truck A/C to cool the back.

-- A split A/C system. Again, use the truck A/C but add a second circuit with a coil & fan in the back. My Chrysler Town & Country had that setup for the rear. Mobile veterinaries use a similar system for their refrigerated drugs.

-- Bonus idea: use a swamp cooler which uses a lot less power and works great in some places.

 

[JMetzger]

When we had our dog we used Road Dog's suggestion about the boot between the truck & shell. Worked great & dog was happy as a fat hog. Had it on the 92 that had a hand throttle. Set throttle to around 1100-1200 rpm.