This is my last big repair job that I will take on. I am posting this with all my mistakes so you all out there can see what to do and what not to do. I will include pictures later.
When asked to help I dont know how to say no.
History; A Compressed air tank belonging to an old dentist friend starts leaking. I do an on site inspection and find a stress crack at one leg.
The tank appears to be solid and no rust showing on the edges of the crack.
My friends(yeah-sure

, I'm am 30 years old at the peak of my productive career:-laf) suggest I try to fix it in place! BUT, I am not able to lay on the floor anymore and do the out of position prep and welds. I have to work on it in my shop.
With some help from mutual friends that run a construction company, we were able to get the tank onto a Truck(A Dodge with a Cummins, no less

) and transport it a few miles over to the shop.
It stayed in the truck during the work. It is mounted on a pallet so there was no metal to metal contact with the truck body. We were very careful not to ground out through the truck to protect the truck electronics.
Now the point I am trying to make here; This is an ASME code pressure vessel. Using the proper techniques, it can be repaired.
Polish off the paint and locate the ends of the crack. Drill out the ends of the crack to keep it from propagating. Grind out the metal around the crack in the shape of a u groove with a thin root that will be burnt out. There will be contamination from rust and compressor oil, inside the tank. SMAW and GMAW are the best options for repair. I tried TIG at first and wasted 2 hours fighting spitting and tungsten electrode contamination. Took a break for a couple of days and went back with 3/32" E7010G HYP rod and SMAW process. I was able to blow through the contamination, grind out porosity and tie everything together with a solid root pass and hot pass with the E7010G rod. Now the fill and cover must be done with Low Hydrogen, 1/8" 7018 low moisture absorbing . Even that was touch and go. After 4 hours of fighting with old rod that was stored in sealed plastic bags, I was able to get part of the welding completed. However the worst part of the weld needed rod that was in better shape. So I took a hand full home to bake out in my oven. The 7018 has been in there since 1830 hours, last evening. Hopefully it will start easier and have less propensity to deposit porosity at the beginning of the weld that requires a burn through.
Every weld action was and is proceeded by a preheat with a torch. After the weld is completed, I will post heat the weld area to about 400*F.
Heading over to the shop to get this show on the road. I hope this will be helpful to anyone out there that has a $4000 compressor, that requires some TLC vs the scrap heap!
GregH