Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
Idiots Guide to Lift Pump Relocation - LP
Okay, I hope this helps some of the next victims of the LP failure. I would have liked to have had a step by step procedure detailing the sequence of events so heres one for the "next guy".
Tool List:
10mm socket w/ 3" & 6" extensions for most bolt removals
17mm Socket for Banjo Bolts
3/8" socket for removing intercooler boot below intake
1/2" socket - removes three nuts at top of LP
9/16" socket for replacing Banjo's w/ Hose Barbs [=]>>>>
10-1. 25 metric die (for me this was key)
Flat Head Screwdriver (VP hose clamp to be installed)
Cordless Drill w/ 5/16" socket (hose clamps & self tapping screws)
5/32" drill bit
Dremel Tool w/ 1 1/2" Cut off Tool (or any small grinding tool)
Soldering Iron, Wire & Flux (extending one 2 wire harness +- 7')
Mini Tubing Cutter - best $7 I ever spent for this project & necessary IMO.
Flourescent Drop Light
Material List:
1. 13' of 3/8" Fuel Line
2. 6-8 small hose clamps for fuel line
3. *5 of 3/8" hose barbs... these must be file down and rethreaded with the metric 10-1. 25 die... this was the virtual brick wall for me. (file the bottom threads off until you can get the die started - wall thickness remains safe)
4. 1 3/8" 90° elbow (out of the VP pointed back towards FF)
5. 7' of small gauge red & black wire
6. Bracket from side of engine - will be cut in half!
7. Favorite Beverage!
8. Razor Blade for clean cuts on fuel hose
9. Three self tapping screw 3/4" or 1" (mounting LP Plate)
10. Teflon Tape (all fuel fittings)
11. Hammer (bending mounting plate into shape)
12. Small Crescent Wrench (90° fitting into VP)
Okay, Step by Step:
1. If your pump came with a 1/8" ID low pressure sensor - chunk it if you have a FP Gauge. YOU SHOULD!! I have a $30 mechanical FP Gauge run into my cab - less than $40 so no excuse to burn up a $2000 Injector Pump.
2. Loosen bottom of boot neares the top of intake manifold (3/8"socket)
Remove Intake manifold (10mm socket)
Remove Heating element (retain gaskets or keep an eye on them) (10mm)
Tuck Heating element between boost elbow and VP
With a Clean cloth plug Intake to keep free of dirt, etc.
3. Next - remove Banjo bolts from FF (17mm socket)
Remove Banjo Bolt from VP - Some fuel will come out! (17mm socket)
Throw that fuel hose in a basket - any basket!
4. Remove FF (two bolts @ top rear) (10mm)
I bunjee'd my FF back towards and below Master Cylinder to see LP
5. Remove Banjo Bolt from Left side of LP (10mm)
Throw that fuel hose in basket with the other
Remove right side Banjo Bolt - bend fuel line out of the way (17mm)
Unplug LP from single plug
Unplug the other end of this harness - you will now hold the 10" or so plug - male on one end - female on the other. Cut this in half and solder in appropriate length of wire reconnecting both ends #==--------==#.
6. Remove LP - three 1/2" nuts @ top (1/2" socket)
7. Remove plate behind LP - (10mm) 4 hold the plate - 2 hold wiring harnesses
*This plate will be cut in half - half needs to remain over exhisting gasket covering mechanical pump hole (which has no cam).
8. With cut off tool Cut Plate in half - you will be able to see where this needs to be cut to be the half you need to remount to frame. Use common sense and you'll be fine.
9. Remount portion of plate that covers exhisting gasket and mechanical LP Hole. (10mm)
10. With the top portion of mount - what I did was grind out a line across @ bend so that I could take a hammer and beat it into a 90° bend. This was near impossible without grinding a cut across just shy of half the thickness of the plate. Went from \_ to L (Hammer)
11. Pop old fuel line out of line clamps going back to tank. Pull line from frame a bit - I cut my line about 4" from bend that heads straight to front. This is where you will shove the new fuel hose about this 4" up and clamp it (mini tubing cutter)
12. With the portion of the plate that will hold the LP drill three 5/32" holes the same size as the self tapping screws (two center and one down) You will use these three holes to self tap into the frame. Mount this to frame between tank and Trans Plate bar. You will see where. I thought - "where would it be safest from sticks and off road hazards"? And I mounted it there! (5/32" Drill Bit)
13. Teflon all of your fittings. Put 90° brass elbow into VP - Put newly threaded hose barb into Elbow... (Crescent Wrench)(9/16" socket)
Put another newly threaded hose barb into top left of FF and top right of FF.
Put newly threaded hose barbs into both sides of LP. (9/16" socket)
14. Clamp Hose to top right of FF and run down to LP "OUT" Side. You will have to loop the hose to do this. (very important to run hose to opposite side or you will never start your diesel while "sucking" fuel from your FF) (5/16" socket or nutdriver)
15. Clamp new fuel hose to 4" remainder of old fuel line near tank - run this to the "IN" side of your LP ((REMEMBER PUMP IS FACING OPPOSITE DIRECTION NOW!!!! OR YOUR LP WILL BE PUSHING FUEL TO THE TANK!!!)) You will have to loop your fuel line to achieve this. Clamp hose to "In" side of LP. (5/16" socket or nutdriver)
16. Clamp Fuel line to VP hose barb and leave the top left side of FF open. (5/16" socket or nutdriver)
17. Connect your newly extended wiring at side of engine where LP used to be - run back to LP's new location and connect it.
18. **Bump your Starter to engage LP - watch for fuel at FF after filter side. Once you get fuel attach hose and clamp down your final hose. (5/16" socket or nutdriver)(Safety Glasses)
You have now relocated your LP and eliminated all restricting Banjo Bolts.
Congratulations.
I could probably do this in a few hours now. I hope this helps someone out there - I have recieved help here multiple times not to mention the money saved and would like to be able to help someone else here.
Thanks,
Shawn
Okay, I hope this helps some of the next victims of the LP failure. I would have liked to have had a step by step procedure detailing the sequence of events so heres one for the "next guy".
Tool List:
10mm socket w/ 3" & 6" extensions for most bolt removals
17mm Socket for Banjo Bolts
3/8" socket for removing intercooler boot below intake
1/2" socket - removes three nuts at top of LP
9/16" socket for replacing Banjo's w/ Hose Barbs [=]>>>>
10-1. 25 metric die (for me this was key)
Flat Head Screwdriver (VP hose clamp to be installed)
Cordless Drill w/ 5/16" socket (hose clamps & self tapping screws)
5/32" drill bit
Dremel Tool w/ 1 1/2" Cut off Tool (or any small grinding tool)
Soldering Iron, Wire & Flux (extending one 2 wire harness +- 7')
Mini Tubing Cutter - best $7 I ever spent for this project & necessary IMO.
Flourescent Drop Light
Material List:
1. 13' of 3/8" Fuel Line
2. 6-8 small hose clamps for fuel line
3. *5 of 3/8" hose barbs... these must be file down and rethreaded with the metric 10-1. 25 die... this was the virtual brick wall for me. (file the bottom threads off until you can get the die started - wall thickness remains safe)
4. 1 3/8" 90° elbow (out of the VP pointed back towards FF)
5. 7' of small gauge red & black wire
6. Bracket from side of engine - will be cut in half!
7. Favorite Beverage!
8. Razor Blade for clean cuts on fuel hose
9. Three self tapping screw 3/4" or 1" (mounting LP Plate)
10. Teflon Tape (all fuel fittings)
11. Hammer (bending mounting plate into shape)
12. Small Crescent Wrench (90° fitting into VP)
Okay, Step by Step:
1. If your pump came with a 1/8" ID low pressure sensor - chunk it if you have a FP Gauge. YOU SHOULD!! I have a $30 mechanical FP Gauge run into my cab - less than $40 so no excuse to burn up a $2000 Injector Pump.
2. Loosen bottom of boot neares the top of intake manifold (3/8"socket)
Remove Intake manifold (10mm socket)
Remove Heating element (retain gaskets or keep an eye on them) (10mm)
Tuck Heating element between boost elbow and VP
With a Clean cloth plug Intake to keep free of dirt, etc.
3. Next - remove Banjo bolts from FF (17mm socket)
Remove Banjo Bolt from VP - Some fuel will come out! (17mm socket)
Throw that fuel hose in a basket - any basket!
4. Remove FF (two bolts @ top rear) (10mm)
I bunjee'd my FF back towards and below Master Cylinder to see LP
5. Remove Banjo Bolt from Left side of LP (10mm)
Throw that fuel hose in basket with the other
Remove right side Banjo Bolt - bend fuel line out of the way (17mm)
Unplug LP from single plug
Unplug the other end of this harness - you will now hold the 10" or so plug - male on one end - female on the other. Cut this in half and solder in appropriate length of wire reconnecting both ends #==--------==#.
6. Remove LP - three 1/2" nuts @ top (1/2" socket)
7. Remove plate behind LP - (10mm) 4 hold the plate - 2 hold wiring harnesses
*This plate will be cut in half - half needs to remain over exhisting gasket covering mechanical pump hole (which has no cam).
8. With cut off tool Cut Plate in half - you will be able to see where this needs to be cut to be the half you need to remount to frame. Use common sense and you'll be fine.
9. Remount portion of plate that covers exhisting gasket and mechanical LP Hole. (10mm)
10. With the top portion of mount - what I did was grind out a line across @ bend so that I could take a hammer and beat it into a 90° bend. This was near impossible without grinding a cut across just shy of half the thickness of the plate. Went from \_ to L (Hammer)
11. Pop old fuel line out of line clamps going back to tank. Pull line from frame a bit - I cut my line about 4" from bend that heads straight to front. This is where you will shove the new fuel hose about this 4" up and clamp it (mini tubing cutter)
12. With the portion of the plate that will hold the LP drill three 5/32" holes the same size as the self tapping screws (two center and one down) You will use these three holes to self tap into the frame. Mount this to frame between tank and Trans Plate bar. You will see where. I thought - "where would it be safest from sticks and off road hazards"? And I mounted it there! (5/32" Drill Bit)
13. Teflon all of your fittings. Put 90° brass elbow into VP - Put newly threaded hose barb into Elbow... (Crescent Wrench)(9/16" socket)
Put another newly threaded hose barb into top left of FF and top right of FF.
Put newly threaded hose barbs into both sides of LP. (9/16" socket)
14. Clamp Hose to top right of FF and run down to LP "OUT" Side. You will have to loop the hose to do this. (very important to run hose to opposite side or you will never start your diesel while "sucking" fuel from your FF) (5/16" socket or nutdriver)
15. Clamp new fuel hose to 4" remainder of old fuel line near tank - run this to the "IN" side of your LP ((REMEMBER PUMP IS FACING OPPOSITE DIRECTION NOW!!!! OR YOUR LP WILL BE PUSHING FUEL TO THE TANK!!!)) You will have to loop your fuel line to achieve this. Clamp hose to "In" side of LP. (5/16" socket or nutdriver)
16. Clamp Fuel line to VP hose barb and leave the top left side of FF open. (5/16" socket or nutdriver)
17. Connect your newly extended wiring at side of engine where LP used to be - run back to LP's new location and connect it.
18. **Bump your Starter to engage LP - watch for fuel at FF after filter side. Once you get fuel attach hose and clamp down your final hose. (5/16" socket or nutdriver)(Safety Glasses)
You have now relocated your LP and eliminated all restricting Banjo Bolts.
Congratulations.
I could probably do this in a few hours now. I hope this helps someone out there - I have recieved help here multiple times not to mention the money saved and would like to be able to help someone else here.
Thanks,
Shawn
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