Here I am

Idle Adjustment?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Source for replacement tie rod ends

NV 4500 reverse hard to find

Status
Not open for further replies.
The tool you need is to loosen the jamb nut, and many guys just get creative, and make thier own. Once the jamb nut is loose you can either turn it with some pliers, or adjust it with the jamb nut. Me personnally, I found a vacuum line rubber cap, and put it over the end of the adjustment screw so my throttle is spaced off by the rubber, not very precise but it works!
 
I plan on getting the jamb nut tool or making one, but I still wonder what this tool does. My adjustment screw is cross drill with a tiny hole on the end where it should be slotted for a screw driver. I know I could use pliers or some other made up rig, but I wonder if there is a specialty tool made for this?
 
I use a chisel to loosen the nut and then adjust it with my finger. My pump was changed sometime before 35k (recall?) so it is clean and has no paint on it though. Your experience may vary.

Travis. .
 
AKimmel-

The hole you see is 90 degrees faround rom the slot. It takes a small screwdriver to get in there (1/8") ,and often times the return line gets in the way. STUPID setup overall, but you live with what you got.



Daniel
 
This may be a dumb idea but just a thought anyway, why can't we reverse the idle adjustment screw so that we can hold the throttle wide open and adjust it with a small screwdriver from the front end?? :confused:
 
rlyons said:
This may be a dumb idea but just a thought anyway, why can't we reverse the idle adjustment screw so that we can hold the throttle wide open and adjust it with a small screwdriver from the front end?? :confused:



Yup!! :D Works fine and no more trying to get at that little bugger thru a maze. The only drawback is set and test, seat and test, etc. Small price to pay for easy though. :)
 
Since the secret is out you might just as well know the remainder of it... ... ... ... ... .



I install the lock nut at the front also, in "most" cases. I use a small, blunt punch and small ball peen hammer to turn the nut. (I will remove the screw and clean the paint from it when I mod a pump)



-S
 
Well for 30 more dollars I will allow each of you to use my method. Don't screw with the jamb nut at all. Put two nuts the correct size on the end at the throttle lever arm. You can get to these and they present enough surface to the lever that they (almost) never need to be adjusted again.



I will just sit back and let the royaltys roll in.



James
 
Dont hold yer breath, James ;) :-laf



GL, what do you do a pump that is fuelled enough so it needs the last threads to get the idle down low enough? Not an issue with current rig, but in the past, I've had a few with 2-3 threads shicking out the FRONT of the adjusting brakcet (that the idle screw goes into). Guess I COULDA re-clocked the shaft/lever, but that would have taken away my high RPM.



Daniel
 
I simply cut off the stop on the throttle arm and weld it in a rearward position (moved back about 1/8" or so. ) I have also had to position the nut at the rear of the pump. If the threads are clean it works just as well and the same as if the nut is at the front.



This is all subject to the type of pump adjustments such as degree of timing advance and governor spring mods, throttle linkage mods etc. etc.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top