Idle control for warm up

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I built this out of 3/8" stock, one turn buckle and two rubber end caps. The overall length is approx. 19. 5" and I simply wedge it between the front seat bracket and the pedal. Adjustment is real easy and it works great. Check it out at the link below.


http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1231655&a=9089608&p=32847860


[This message has been edited by Bigsaint (edited 11-13-2000). ]

 

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Or you can hop to www.awdirect.com and get a hold of the kind that the tow trucks use for when the PTO is engaged. They're professional quality, will work on the B series, and not too badly priced. #ad


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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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more direct, http://www.awdirect.com//catalog. cfm?dest=itempg&itemid=7401&secid=73&linkon=subsection&linkid=210

Steve St. Laurent: I edited this post to change the link so that it didn't connect direct to illflem's personal account to protect his privacy. The webmaster at awdirect informed us of this.


[This message has been edited by Steve St. Laurent (edited 12-17-2000). ]

 

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Our bus has one of those cables. It came with it. I'd like to take the throttle cable off the lawn mower and put on my truck.


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• '93 250 LE 4x4 5spd 4:10 Loaded,dual 5" chrome stacks,12cm² turbo,PW injectors,K&N,pyro/boost,US Gear E-Brake,tool box,CB,10" AR rims, 285/75/16 Bf goodrich. "wirenut_21529" on Yahoo Messenger
• '96 Ford B-Series school bus (5. 9 Cummins!)I'm gonna Bomb it!
• '94 GMC 2500 6. 5L Turbo

PICTURES.

 

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I would just turn on the exhaust brake in the morning for warm-up.

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2001 2500HD Quad Cab SLT SB 4x4, HO Cummins, 6-speed, 3. 55 gears, LSD, brightwhite/driftwood, 4w ABS, camper and trailer tow packages, HD transfer case, snow plow prep, group, cab lights, Isspro Boost and Pyrometer gauges mounted on A-pillar, 4" JRE exhaust, BD exhaust brake. 22500 miles as of 11/11/00.

1980 CJ-5, Modified for off-road use, bobbed fenders, 350 TBI, NP435 trans, 4. 56 gears, Dana 300, Dana 44 front, Dana 60 reverse-cut rear axle, ARB air lockers front and rear, 15/35/15 Super Swamper TSL on 10X15 steel rims, Cobra CB, Warn 9000I winch, nerf bars, 1/4" steel rock crawler bumper front and rear, jerri can/spare tire rack, custom roll cage.

 

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I have been looking for something to idle up my engine. this looks great. how is it installed. i mean does it attatch to fuel pedal or under hood somewhere.

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Y2K, 2500, SLT, QC, LB, 4x4,Cummins of course, 3. 54,Michelin M&S265/75,driftwood, tow and camper, trip computer, sliding rear window, agate leather,cab lights and all the rest of the options I could fit, including auto (my wifes request),Ventshade Vent Visors, Bedliner, Diamond Plate rail caps and tailgate protector, diamond plate Delta tool box, Sidewinder anti-theft alarm with keyless entry, Sanyo wireless remote 10 disc CD player, Midland 77-115 40 CB.

 

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DieselB59
I thought that type of set up would not work on my truck as the pedal is now " fly by wire". Any idea on where the cable would hook up on a 2001 ETH ?

LouieM
This is real caveman technology. The stick goes inside the cab and is positioned between the front drivers seat bracket, near the floor board and the pedal. I know it looks crude, but it works great and is adjustable.


White 2001. 5 3500 ETH/DEE 4X4 Quad cab SLT,tow package and camper prep,Husky liners front and rear,DiPricol pyro and boost gauges,Mopar tonneau,Lund bug shield,PM tractor utility back up lights,Penda bed mat and blow by bottle is bye bye !!!
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089608" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My Truck</font></A><font color="#F7F7F7"><font color="#DEDFDF">




[This message has been edited by Bigsaint (edited 11-12-2000). ]

 

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Bigsaint,
You didn't say in your original posting or have a signature to say you have the ISB. That's a different story. I'm not too sure if there is anything out there for that.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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Good idea Scott.
I've found that my grid heater stays on longer @ 1100-1200 RPM so this is where I try to keep it at,at least for a few minutes before I move.
I'm lucky enough that I can plug it in here at home and work. #ad


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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 59,000 Mi as of 10/21/00.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

 

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Thanks Patriot. I always plug in at home when the temp. goes below 40 F. I have it set on timer for two hours and so far, that has been enough. I built this for the nights that I get stuck at work, usually a double tour (16 hours) and usually during snow storms. I don't have the luxury of plugging in at work so now I figure I can just defrost my truck for 10 or 15 minutes before I leave without having to sit there with my foot on the pedal.

Scott W.


White 2001. 5 3500 ETH/DEE 4X4 Quad cab SLT,tow package and camper prep,Husky liners front and rear,DiPricol pyro and boost gauges,Mopar tonneau,Lund bug shield,PM tractor utility back up lights,Penda bed mat and blow by bottle is bye bye !!!
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089608" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My Truck</font></A><font color="#F7F7F7"><font color="#DEDFDF">



[This message has been edited by Bigsaint (edited 11-12-2000). ]

 

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Go to a truck stop and pick up a idle control for $6. 99
It's a small diameter rod about 2. 5 ft long with a adjustable spring loaded lever that you wedge between the pedal and the bottom of the dash and adjust till you get the right RPM. I use mine all the time when I sleep in my truck and need to keep the AC or heater on.

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1997 3500 club cab, 10' flatbed, 3:54, auto, 4 Firestone air bags, 268,000+ miles

 

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how does this one from awdirect work. Where does it connect and how difficult to install.

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Y2K, 2500, SLT, QC, LB, 4x4,Cummins of course, 3. 54,Michelin M&S265/75,driftwood, tow and camper, trip computer, sliding rear window, agate leather,cab lights and all the rest of the options I could fit, including auto (my wifes request),Ventshade Vent Visors, Bedliner, Diamond Plate rail caps and tailgate protector, diamond plate Delta tool box, Sidewinder anti-theft alarm with keyless entry, Sanyo wireless remote 10 disc CD player, Midland 77-115 40 CB.

 

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Hey Saint!

How's the DRW?

anywho, someone else here turned me onto this as far as plugging in...
http://www.thermocube.com

Max

 

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Unless something has changed in the 24v from 99 to 2001, you still have a throttle cable that goes into a box. The throttle cable pulls against a spring and at the same time rotates a shaft connected to a potentiometer. The 'pot' is what gives it the fly wire wire name, since the pot is a variable resistor that sends voltage to a engine computer for rpm increase/decrease.

My point is that you should be able to make this vernier cable connect to the mechanical part of the 'pot' assembly and have it pull on the assy as if it were the floor throttle.

An alternative is to place some kind of hinge behind the foot pedal upper assy (above the throttle hinge where the pedal is pulling on the throttle wire) and have the vernier actuate this 'hinge' which in effect will move the floor throttle. The good part about this is that you are not messing with the 'pot' assy under the hood and thus risking undue attention from the warranty gods.

If you 'mess' with any part of the throttle system, be very careful. On one hand you could hurt yourself or others. On the other hand, if you shut the engine off while the idle up is engaged, and then start the truck you can easily get in a condition where you will set off the 'check engine' light.

The computer always thinks the value on the 'pot' upon engine start is the value it should see for idle. If you relax your homemade idle up control after starting, the 'pot' will now be lower than idle. Since that will not make sense to the computer, guess what little light comes on?? Cycle the key three times after insuring the throttle is normal and the light should go out...




[This message has been edited by David_VT (edited 11-13-2000). ]

 

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Hey Sean,uh, I mean Mad Max... Lov'in the training wheels although a bit concerned about the drive with snow covered roads after reading several posts on how they track. I guess I'll find out when it falls. Thanks for the info on thermocube, looks real good for when I'm plugged in at home.

Scott W.


White 2001. 5 3500 ETH/DEE 4X4 Quad cab SLT,tow package and camper prep,Husky liners front and rear,DiPricol pyro and boost gauges,Mopar tonneau,Lund bug shield,PM tractor utility back up lights,Penda bed mat and blow by bottle is bye bye !!!
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089608" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My Truck</font></A><font color="#F7F7F7"><font color="#DEDFDF">



[This message has been edited by Bigsaint (edited 11-13-2000). ]

 

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David_VT
Thanks for the info David. I would not turn off the truck with the idle stick in place. I was only going to place same into position after initial start up. For the limited use I need this for, I think I'll just stick with my caveman technology rather than mess with the "pot".

Scott W.


White 2001. 5 3500 ETH/DEE 4X4 Quad cab SLT,tow package and camper prep,Husky liners front and rear,DiPricol pyro and boost gauges,Mopar tonneau,Lund bug shield,PM tractor utility back up lights,Penda bed mat and blow by bottle is bye bye !!!
<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1231655&a=9089608" TARGET=_blank><font color=red>My Truck</font></A><font color="#F7F7F7"><font color="#DEDFDF">




[This message has been edited by Bigsaint (edited 11-13-2000). ]

 

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Big Saint>
Like that throttle control. Simple is good. So far as Cave Men; I envy those guys.

David TD. > I never considered about the engine being started at a throttle above 0 before. It must happen; people must get into a cummins and pumpem a couple of times then hold it to the floor like starting an old gasser. Wonder what happens.
I Agree you should control the throttle from inside the Cab either like bigsaint by pushing on the petal or by going above the petal lever and pulling on that shaft or the wire directly.
Some people posted you couldnt do this with a ISB but ISB, while very smart, has no idea who is pushing on the Go petal. It will respond the same whether it is a brick, foot, big saint throttle stick or a wire.

Those cables on AW direct look nice but 50$ plus 20$ mounting hardwared seems kinda high but who know I may do it.




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2001 ETH/DEE ST 4X4 SPACE SHUTTLE

 

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jponder,
Thinking about it, the last time I set off my check engine with the high idle was just after I changed my injectors. I started the truck fine but when I got on the throttle the rpms would not come up much and the check engine light popped on. I nearly had a heart attack, thinking the injector job screwed up the engine, but then I saw the idle control position... dahhhh

 

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David>
I read through the post and you didnt mention how you implemented your high Idle. Your response to me insinuated you have one. So tell us how you did yours.

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2001 ETH/DEE ST 4X4 SPACE SHUTTLE

 

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I am getting a remote starter installed on mine this weekend. I have been putting a 7" ruler between the bottom of the dash and the go-fast pedal in the mornings when I start it to let it warm up while I go in the house and grab a quick bite to eat. Being as I am reading that the computer will get confused if the throttle is partially idled up, I am assuming that would meant that it would be a bad idea to put it (the ruler) in place when I park it at night. I am fairly new here, so pardon my greenness. What would be the best solution then, since if I have to run out and adjust a throttle control after starting it, that would defeat the purpose of having the remote starter. Would an exhaust brake be the best solution? And if so, which one do you recommend? How difficult are they to install? I am planning on upgrading the exhaust to a 4" system in the spring, so are the exhaust brakes dependent on the exhaust size?


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Name: Craig Clairmont
2001 Quad Cab 2500 4x4, Short Bed, ETC, Auto, 3. 54 gears, SLT Plus, Sport, Forest Green Pearl, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, 305/70R16 Cooper Discoverer AT tires on Stock Rims, Grizzly Double Bend Chrome Bars, Catch-All Front Floor Mats, Weather Tech Smoke Colored Vent Visors, DC Mud Flaps, Turbo "unsilenced", Engine is all stock... for now. Line-X bedliner coming this fall...

Other Mopars:
1978 Ram 4x4 - 440, Convertible, Club Cab, Step Side Bed - Project Almost Done

1968 Plymouth GTX - 440, 4 Speed, Black Buckets, Console - Project Ready to Get Underway