Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Idleing

[brandonwhite]

I know it is not good to idle for long periods of time. I know there are high idle devices available but I don't want to buy one if not necessary, but then again one of these devices is cheap compared to my engine. So the big question is how long is too long to idle?



Almost daily in 15-35 degree weather in the mornings I drive my truck 20-50 miles to a field and then let it idle for about 30 minutes while I have a kazillion lights on while we are setting up to hunt. I need to have it running because of the current draw and I am just wondering if this is bad for my truck.

 

[WDaniels]

Brandonwhite,

Someone posted on the site somewhere about this(I searched and couldn't find it)and they quoted the cummins manual on extended idleing for the 24v and they quoted "6 hours" then some stuff that the over valved people have to do to keep their valves from sticking. I don't know of anyone idleing 6 hours but I have idled for a couple of hours and no problem. No increased oil quanity or anything else. Hope this helps.

WD

 

[shakey]

If it was me I would install some sort of high idle device. My main concern would be after warmup when you are leaving it idle for awhile with a lot of lights. For 2 reasons, 1 being that the engine is already warmed up & oil is thined out (compared to cold) this is were idling for long periods is not good, 2nd is you are probably creating a big draw on the charging system (which is designed to operate at higher rpms) Just my opinion hope this sheds some light

 

[Ron Bissett]

Yes it is bad for your truck . Best bet is a small gen set and flood light on stand plenty of light and saves the truck . Small gen set can be had used for less than a new or used Cummins. Ron in Louisville KY:-{}

 

[Bigsaint]

Caveman technology

If you don't want to spend alot, fashion a high idler stick. I used a turnbuckle, two pieces of 3/8" stock, a couple of nuts for each end and two rubber end caps, like you would see on a shower curtain rod. Wedge it in between the drivers seat bracket and the go pedal, adjust it via the turnbuckle for whatever rpms you seek and you are good to go. Cost is around $10. 00.



If you ever get a exhaust brake, then you will be set. Just idle with the brake on, works great for fast warmups when you can't plug in as well.



Scott W.

 

[andrewkoperdak]

There is a technical service bulletin TSB for reflashing the ECM. I had mine done free at the Dodge Dealer. Since it is a preventive measure to prevent valve damage, it was easy to get them to do it.

Long periods of idling are supposed to build up varnishes on the valve stems and could lead to one of them getting stuck possibly in the fully open position where it would get mashed about 800 times before I could turn the engine off. The TSB mentioned above will raise idle to 1200 rpm on just 3 cylinders while dragging the other 3 to make work for the engine. This makes the engine warm up faster thus decreasing the varnish-stuck valve issue.

Secondly long periods of idling will soot up your oil quickly. So if you plan to idle for long periods you should also adjust your oil changes accordingly.

R,

Andy

 

[cmills]

I've let my truck idle for 1-2 hours many times like when we are out pushing snow and we get a break and get to go home for a while instead of shutting the truck off we just leave them(dad has a 97 ctd) run to stay warm plus it keeps the windows from freezing over. I did an oil analysis to see if it was diluting the oil or getting too much soot in the oil and it was perfectly fine, even with larger injectors(whether that makes a difference I don't know) We farm and have tractors that get tons of idle time with no problems. I am in no way saying that it is good for the engine, I am just telling my experience with this issue



Cory

 

[Pit Bull]

I doubt if 30 minutes will hurt anything, just think how long some idle their trucks that live and commute in a big city? Plus hunting season does not last that long. It's not like your going to do this everyday for the next year??? But if it does concern you take the advise and make yourself a high idle stick

 

[jerryrigg]

for the amount of time we idle I wouldn't worry about sticking the valves... I am more concerned with VP44 and lift pump life... at idle the ECM is only providing enough fuel to keep the motor running period... remember the VP44 is lubed/cooled by the fuel... So at the very least I'd get a stick between the pedal/seat to keep a constant flow of fuel... . I also make sure I add my "special blend" of additive every tank which also has stanadyne lubricity formula in it... . better to put a couple extra bucks in the tank than $3K into a new pump..... but the idle kits on the market are a big improvement over the stick as they vary the rpm's...



just my 2 cents...

-Matt

 

[brandonwhite]

Thanks for the advice. Hunting season is three months and I am out nearly every day of it. If it was only a day or two here and there I would not worry but I do this a lot so I think I will look into a high idler either a electronic one if I am feeling rich or more than likely a stick setup as described above.

 

[andrewkoperdak]

jerry,

Correct me if I wrong, and I'm not, at idle you VP44 is not just gettting enough fuel to keep the engine running. It is getting all that the Lift pump can produce since the lift pump runs at 100% duty cycle all the time as long as the engine is running.

The VP44 is delivering to the combustion chambers enough fuel to keep the enine running but it is always getting plenty of fuel from the lift pump unless it is defective and excess fuel is returned to the fuel tank.

R,

Andy

 

[jerryrigg]

Andy-



Yes the VP44 is getting everything the Lift Pump can deliver, at idle hopefully the Lift Pump is at least 10 psi, 70% of the fuel sent to the VP44 is for cooling/lube and returned to the tank. One item I did not mention is the injectors are also lubricated from the VP44, this is not the fuel pumped into the cylinder but a small amount of fuel that flows past the injectors to lubricate them, this fuel then flows through the fuel drain manifold and back to the tank. The main point is, as we know the Lift Pump and VP44 have proven to be unreliable, keeping the engine over idle is going to kick a little extra fuel for cooling/lube through the VP44 and injectors, also adding a lubricating additive to your fuel is just extra insurance.



-Matt

 

[andrewkoperdak]

Matt,

Maybe you can teach me something here. When I installed my injectors myself I did not see an ports or passages that let the fuel return to the tank. I did see the supply line to the injectors. The injectors get lubed everytime the pop do they not. Why would they need any other lube?

Consequently, where in Ca are you? YOu must be North of San Diego as I can't imagine why anyone would want to leave this place,

R,

Andy

 

[jerryrigg]

Andy-



Follow the fuel return line from your VP44 (the forward banjo fitting) back to the rear of the block/head and it comes to a T-fitting, the bottom is the return to the tank, the upper fitting goes around to the back of the head where you will find another banjo fitting, this is the fuel drain manifold for the return fuel from lubricating the injectors. As far as in the head the manifold is just rifled passages.



We all have our opinions of CA, to be civil lets just say ours disagree.



-Matt