Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) If you were me (new truck)

[Jrork]

Hi everybody. I'm new here and am enjoying learning about these trucks.

I'm going to be moving away from a 1 ton chevy big block truck and getting a Dodge 2500 with the Cummins. I can't wait!!

In the price range that I'm looking at less than $15K I want to make sure that I'm not getting something that is going to hurt me with repairs that I didn't diagnose beforehand.

I read about the dowel pin issue and am curious if this is something that can be seen from outside the engine when I'm looking at trucks? I see there is a concern with 53 blocks and I'm ready to look for that indicator.

All I'm going to use this truck for is to run back and forth to work (max 4 miles) and tow our 6000 lbs travel trailer when we go camping. I would prefer a auto cuz I'm fat and lazy but would still do a manual if the truck was right.

Is there anything else I should know about so I make a good decision? I'll be doing most of the mechanical work as needed but certainly don't want to do something if by making a good decision on my purchase, I don't have to.

Thanks very much and I'm looking forward to everyones thoughts. Bring it on.



John

 

[AMink]

Welcome aboard! If I had to do it over again, I would have chosen a manual over an auto. If you BOMB (and you just might ), you'll have more cushion before getting into transmission rebuilds. Check the ball joints in the front end (4x4). If the truck has many miles, they'll probably need replacing, along with the track bar. The engine should outlast the truck itself, so most of what you'd be looking at is in the truck itself. Try to get service records if you can. If they pinned the KDP, you should be able to see where it was drilled. If it was tabbed, the front cover was removed and it would be hard to tell. Good luck!

 

[Johnstra]

Welcome John! I was able to get a 98 12V quad cab for under $15k; look carefully and you should be able to do the same. If the dowel pin was tabbed, you can't tell without pulling the front cover off the timing case. I don't know if you can tell from the outlside of the timing case if the KDP was blocked by using the jig method. Overall, the 12v cummins is a VERY dependable engine. If you do get a manual beware the 5th gear problem: due to vibration it has a tendancy to back off. It can be fixed pretty easily but it has been a recurring problem for some. Higher mileage 12V trucks can develop problems with air leaks in the fuel system. If you take the time to track down the problem, the fix is usually simple and inexpensive. There is a fuel shutoff solenoid that can fail. Sometimes it's the solenoid itself and sometimes it's the relay that drives the solenoid. If it's the relay, the fix is pretty inexpensive, but a new solenoid can cost $200-300. Some of the othe recurring problems are: steering wander and brakes. Also, pesky but minor oil leaks can keep you busy if the oil bothers you. Some don't worry about it, but I'm kinda picky. Personally, the Ram w/ a 12V Cummins is the perfect truck for me. With proper maintenance, the engine will last an awfully long time and the problems that I listed above are all things that can be taken care of by anyone with average wrenching skills - I'm probably below average, but I manage to muddle by. Good luck with your decision and if you do buy a 12V welcome to the club!

-john

 

[AMink]

Check the boot on the shutoff solenoid on the 12valve. The boot may be shot, but it is an easy and pretty cheap fix. If you have to change it, hang on to both main parts of the shutoff, as the boot is what holds them together. Check the bolt on the AFC on top of the p-pump that is under the intake horn towards the engine. If it is still the kind that you have to remove with a chisel, it hasn't been removed. If it's a regular bolt of one kind or another, someone has been in the pump. No necessarily a bad thing, but something to ask about. Might be a different or slid plate.

 

[RT66DOC]

How do you check the ball joints, track bar and tie rod ends on a 4X4?

 

[AMink]

I jacked up the front, put jack stands under the frame and carefully lowered the axle. I could see when wiggling one tire back and forth, the other wasn't moving near as much. I put on some Luke's Links at the obviously loose balls. Fixed it right up. That's all the further I've gone. Search the site for TONS more info on front suspension stuff.

 

[Grizzly]

Welcome aboard John. I recommend a 5 or 6 speed shifter, long bed, maybe a 3500 SRW, depending on your needs. Good luck to you.

 

[TMitch]

Lots of good advice so far. Use common sense when you are crawling in and around the truck. Don't feel rushed because you will miss stuff. Look at a few and you will begin to see the range of differences in how different owners maintain their trucks.

Definitely check out the front end, the Cummins is heavy... Easy indicators are sloppy steering, pulling to one side while driving, uneven tire wear...

Look all over the block for oil and coolant leaks, do a search here for KDP so you are familiar with the issue. Leaks don't mean it's a bad truck but you don't want surprises.

Listen for driveline clunks... bad u-joints

Examine the exhaust right from the turbo back for leaks and corrosion.

Look at what brand of oil filter the owner uses. Does he use a good quality name-brand filter or cheap junk? This is sometimes an indicator of the owner's approach to manintenance.

Open the air filter box and check the condition of the air filter.

Ask for service records.

I could go on and on... this will get you started.

Document everything you find and take it into consideration when you make your offer.

 

[Jrork]

Wow!!

This is a lot of really good info. Thanks very much. At the risk of getting my hand slapped by the moderator, can I quickly ask what years between 94 and 98 were the years that they made good changes to the rest of the truck? This might help me narrow it down to just a handful of key years (or maybe not).



Thanks again... ... ... John

 

[pwerwagn]

Welcome to TDR!!!

Just something to think about:

94-95 Cummins Autos were 160 hp.

94-95 cummins 5-speed were 175hp.

96-98 cummins autos were 180hp.

96-98 cummins 5-speeds were 215 hp (the most desireable).

If you are looking for a 215hp 5-speed, watch out for the cali models. they were detuned to 180hp. It should say the hp rating on the CPL. The CPL is located on the drivers side of the motor, towards the front on the timing case. It may have some oil on it, so you may need to wipe it to see the rating.

On the drivers side of the motor is the fuel pump. If you look, there will be a cover (called the AFC cover). The cover has a big allen plug in it. Look at the 4-bolts that hold the cover on. If the bolt that on the pass side of the pump, toward the front, is either missing or has a head on it, the pump has been worked on possibly. If it has a screw with no head, then it is either been left alone, or if it is not black like the rest of the pump, it may have a prof installed plate.

you already know about the KDP thing.

TRUCK INFO:

the 94-97 trucks themselves are relatively unchanged. they are all basically the same. In 98 is when the interior changed. 94-97 a cummins was not available in a short bed. 98 was the first year of a short bed. 98 was also the first year of the Quad Cab (suicide rear doors). 98 was also the last year of the 12v (obviously).

when you test drive, you must remember that it is probably gonna wander more than your chevy did. The steering is not perfect.

You should be able to find a really nice truck for $15K if you look. Especially if you stay in the pre-98 year range. $15K will get you a heckuva nice truck.

hope that helps somewhat,

--Jeff

 

[Joe G.]

A few remarks about what Jeff said. Mostly correct.



The CPL is the Construction Parts List number. That's the number you will need for looking up things like which plate to use. It's on the data plate where you find HP and stock timing. The '94 models only were available in standard cab. The extended cab (Club Cab) models were first available in '95 (I had to wait a year because of that). Early CA '96 (build date before 1-1-96) manual transmission trucks were 215 HP. The EGR mess was first installed on CA trucks 1-1-96. Avoid them if possible. TST plate kits come with a break off screw so the installation may look stock. The tip off in this case is that the AFC housing will be as far forward in the screw slots as possible.

 

[Jrork]

This is all really helpful. When I make my decision I'll be sure to post pics. I would prefer to not spend $15K but that is merely my upper limit before the wife skins me alive.

 

[AMink]

my upper limit before the wife skins me alive

Luckily, you'll have A/C and heat, so skin insn't really necessary... :-laf

 

[Jrork]

Solid point. What could be worse is she quits cooking! Now THAT would hurt!