ignition switch problems

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i am having problems with the switch in my 94,,sometimes when it is turned to start there is nothing,,sometimes just a click,,if i jiggle it and turn it hard then it starts,,battery's are fine and there is plenty of starter power when i hit the right spot. for some reason it is worse on cold engine starts. i am leaning towards it being a bad switch but would like to know if anyone has any other input as to what might be causing my problem. i have never replaced a switch and if someone has please give some pointers. thanks

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94 2500 4x4 SLT,auto,176,000 miles,3:54,brilliant blue/silver,tst 250/635,pump turned up 20%,k&n,gauges,cat gutted,
2001 3500 4x4 q-cab slt,auto,2500 miles,3:55lsd,brite silver,stock (for now)both have 12k hitches&15k's in the beds,30ft fourwinds 5er

 

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Replacing the switch is really easy, It just requires removing the plastic shrouding from the steering column, taking off the fasteners that hold the switch in place and re-installing the new one. That's it.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program

 

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You might want to check the wires that feed the ignition switch. I have a 95 with a tilt wheel and have had to repair the hot lead to the switch three different times. The lead that supplies power to the crank circuit is the one that broke on mine. If you remove the three screws in the bottom of the trim piece that is behind the steering wheel, you can look at the wires going to the switch.

 

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**ICEMAN**
I went through what`s happening to you. I replaced the starter and no more problems.

The OE starter is notorious for acting like you say.

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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.

 

[Archive]

thanks for all the input,,,i will try the connections first,,and then the switch,,i have the recall notice here about the blower motor on high damaging the switch,,so i will let the dealer take care of that,,if that dont work i'll try the starter. the only thing that i cant understand is why it acts up on cold engine or low outside temp. starting. if it is the starter why does the temp. effect it? it usually starts ok when the engine is warm

 

[Archive]

Try a search on starter repair, there has been several excellent posts on solenoid repair for very little money which quite often eliminates starter problems.
I found this in my archives hope it helps.

In TDR issue #25 (summer 99) on page 18 there is an article on the solenoid repair. I'll quote one relevant section here:
"Off we go in Roger's 3500... to find Keith Swearingen's Diesel Electric Service Company, at 917 North Pinal Avenue, Casa Grande, AZ (520-836-8231). Keith is a friendly, knowledgable type that knows everything about heavy-duty diesel electrical systems. I show him my problem. He goes to his microfiche and quickly asks, "Do you want just the fixed contact for $5, or the complete repair kit with new movable contacts, spring, both fixed contacts, insulators and all for $25?" I can't believe my good fortune! "I'll take the complete repair kit," I stammer, quickly comparing $25 to $350 (part #19907, $24. 38 plus tax and shipping). Keith says that he ships parts all over the US by United Parcel Service. His shop takes Visa/MC too!

Keith goes on to share a tip with me. "Make sure that when you reinstall the fixed contacts, you let both of them bottom out against the housing insulator so they will be perfectly level before you tighten up the mounting bolt studs in the elongated slots. This will prevent one side of the contact hitting the movable contact and not the entire surface. If you don't, one side or edge won't be able to carry the current required to crank the engine and will burn prematurely. " That makes sense, I conclude. I pay my $25 and head back to fix the truck. "

This was for a '94 but I'm pretty sure it's the same starter. The parts guy listed up above would know I'm sure. He also mentioned in this article that a new starter was $670 and that you could get a reman for $350 exchange (according to a Dodge parts guy). Good luck, hope this helps!

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96 SLT Laramie CC 5spd, 3. 54, no muff, no cat, 5"turn down tip
80gal fuel capacity. BD Brake, EGT,Boost + fuel pressure gauges. Member NRA/USPSA

 

[Archive]

tested batteries,putting out 1400 cca each,,put a new switch in and checked connections & still had the problem( took new switch back) cleaned connections on the starter,(still problems) unplug connector on the neutral start/backup light switch & cleaned & some dielectric grease and NO MORE PROBLEMS!!! just thought you would like know in case you ever have any of the same symtoms when turning the switch to start

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94 2500 4x4 SLT,auto,180,000 miles,3:54,brilliant blue/silver,tst 250/635,pump turned up 20%,k&n,gauges,cat gutted,
2001 3500 4x4 q-cab slt,auto,4500 miles,3:55lsd,brite silver,stock (for now)both have 12k hitches&15k's in the beds,30ft fourwinds 5er,(MY RAMS) http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1360183&a=10142301