I finally decieded to replace my defective ignition switch last weekend.
Last summer, my power windows and A/C blower motor quit working when the weather got hot. The fuses in the left row (#1-3) were not getting any power from the ignition switch. After looking at where the ignition switch is located (above the steering column under the dash), I decieded to do a temporary fix with an external relay mounted on the L/H inner fender well just aft of the battery. The relay was commanded on by the fuse bus that powers fuses # 4-6, and the output wire from the relay went through the firewall and into the fusebox to power the dead bus (#1-3). This jury rig worked fine up until about three weeks ago, when I foumd myself popping the hood open on occasions, and tapping the relay in order to get my power windows and blower motor to work. I finally got tired of this routine, and decieded to fix it right. I found out Autozone has new ignition switches for only ten bucks, and the ignition switch is not as hard to change out as I thought it was. All I had to do was disconnect the battery, gain access to the fusebox, remove the two nuts, washers and steering column support clamp, and remove two bolts on the rubber steering flex coupler. The steering column drops down allowing ample access to the ignition switch. If I knew it was going to be this easy to replace, I would have fixed it right a long time ago! Upon removal of the old ignition switch, I discovered the internal contacts were arced, causing the plastic housing to melt, along with the connector. I guess this is a good reason why we need to turn off the A/C before we shut down the engine. Leaving the blower motor on while starting the engine will cause the contacts in the ignition switch to arc after the start switch is released.
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89 D-250 LE 5 speed 3. 55 Limited slip, Banks Intercooler, 'Ol Blue Specials, K&N, Full Boar Muffler, 3" exhaust, Diesel Dynamics Stage 1 kit, Boost/Pyro. & 16cm2 215K miles.
Last summer, my power windows and A/C blower motor quit working when the weather got hot. The fuses in the left row (#1-3) were not getting any power from the ignition switch. After looking at where the ignition switch is located (above the steering column under the dash), I decieded to do a temporary fix with an external relay mounted on the L/H inner fender well just aft of the battery. The relay was commanded on by the fuse bus that powers fuses # 4-6, and the output wire from the relay went through the firewall and into the fusebox to power the dead bus (#1-3). This jury rig worked fine up until about three weeks ago, when I foumd myself popping the hood open on occasions, and tapping the relay in order to get my power windows and blower motor to work. I finally got tired of this routine, and decieded to fix it right. I found out Autozone has new ignition switches for only ten bucks, and the ignition switch is not as hard to change out as I thought it was. All I had to do was disconnect the battery, gain access to the fusebox, remove the two nuts, washers and steering column support clamp, and remove two bolts on the rubber steering flex coupler. The steering column drops down allowing ample access to the ignition switch. If I knew it was going to be this easy to replace, I would have fixed it right a long time ago! Upon removal of the old ignition switch, I discovered the internal contacts were arced, causing the plastic housing to melt, along with the connector. I guess this is a good reason why we need to turn off the A/C before we shut down the engine. Leaving the blower motor on while starting the engine will cause the contacts in the ignition switch to arc after the start switch is released.
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89 D-250 LE 5 speed 3. 55 Limited slip, Banks Intercooler, 'Ol Blue Specials, K&N, Full Boar Muffler, 3" exhaust, Diesel Dynamics Stage 1 kit, Boost/Pyro. & 16cm2 215K miles.