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I'ld like it shorter...

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There are what appear to be two 0. 5” spacers between the top of the axle and the bottom of the spring on my 2003 2500 SWB 4x4. I would like to remove these spacers to lower the rear of my truck so that it fits under my 5th wheel better. I was told by a local aftermarket 4x4 shop that there are 3 center pins which go up into the spring therefore the spacers cannot be removed.



When I talked to the service department of my dealer, they implied that people were doing this for the same reason I want to but that they did not do this type of work (that part of the answer I expected).



Has anyone tried or done this on a 2003? If you have removed the spacers, were there any problems (or pins) to deal with? Did you have to replace the U bolts (looks like short ones may be needed)? Any other tips?



Thanks!



Jay
 
removing blocks

hi

on my previous ctd ram it had 5 inch blocks under the rear spring to the axle , i removed them no problems . only had to have the u bolts re made to be shorter , but if yours is only 1/2 inch should be no problem

regards conn
 
You should search some offroading forums. Those pins can easily be replaced with shorter ones from most any auto parts store. The u-bolts should be easily replaced as well. PM me if you want a play by play rundown of what to do.
 
I measured the spacers and came up with 5/8" each. That's 1-1/4" total at the axle, which is almost 2" at the tailgate because of the tail high pitch of the truck. 2" could make all the difference in some situations. I was also wondering about the length of travel for the shocks, but in looking at the rear suspension design, there are rubber stops where the axle and frame come close to each other when heavily loaded, so the shocks should have enough travel to allow for the stops to hit. This would happen with a lower load if you removed the spacers, but I don't think this would be a problem on a CTD quad cab because we are rear weight limited anyway because of all the weight on the front axle (assuming that you intend to stay below the GVWR). Another way of looking at this is if you had a 2WD regular cab truck with a Hemi, you could load the rear axle much heavier than what I can load mine.



I had my 01. 5 lowered by 1-7/8" at the rear axle by a TSB. I really liked it because it made the truck easier to get in and out of, and lots easier to load the bed becasue the tailgate was almost 3" lower at the back end when lowered.



I don't understand why Dodge doesn't address this as a factory option. It states right in their literature to use a 5th wheel or gooseneck trailer for loads over 10,000 lbs, but you can't hook one up to a 4x4. Sometimes I wish I'd gotten the 2WD I was considering.
 
Matt (and any others that have done this):



Do you have any new vibrations/whine due to the new driveshaft angles?



Have you noticed any drawbacks to doing this, at all? Sounds like an easy mod.
 
Originally posted by boonsur

Matt (and any others that have done this):



Do you have any new vibrations/whine due to the new driveshaft angles?



Have you noticed any drawbacks to doing this, at all? Sounds like an easy mod.
It was one of the first things I did, I have put about 14000 miles on it without the blocks and haven't noticed anything that would make me want to put them back in. Its only 1. 25" but makes the truck look way better IMO.
 
Just an idea here. But couldnt you buy springs w/ a kit that would have it so the springs ran under the axle? that would be a way to lower the truck... . This is just an idea and a question to see if it could be done?



Dont flame me PLEASE :-laf
 
Darn Nick, What are you thinking? That's the most retarded questions I've ever heard,, I like to say there are no dumb questions,, but I'll have to say, that was a dumb one! Go back to the hole you were in...



ok, ok,, Just a little buddy to buddy ribbing. . All joking aside. .





That would be like a 6" drop,, (more like a 10" drop on 2nd Gens), and then, anytime you put a load on the truck, it would all be transfered to the U-Bolts. (trying to pull the threads off the bolts)



Make any sense?



It's wise (not mandatory) to have your leaf's on top of the axles, this leaves the load on the leaf spring, and the only job for the u-bolts is to keep the axle from slipping out from underneath, compared to, an Axle Flip lowering kit,, all the weight of the truck is placed directly on the U-Bolts.





If you were to re-arch the leafs to be below the Axle,, I think the leafs would have to much angle to give a good ride. Kinda like this -- to this V.



Merrick
 
Lowering kits that they use on 2WD's should work on the rear of a 4x4 but that leaves the front too high. Lowering the front is not possible IMO without causing wheel travel trouble on a 4x4. They lower the 2WD's front with dropped/offset spindles and that won't work on a 4x4.



Best bet is to simply run a 2WD plus lower it if you want and then use a different vehicle for 4x4 use if you can unless you need 4x4 with your trailer.



Or you could run the Chebbie/Isuzu that is more grandma friendly, heck it would be kinda cool to see one with a Cummins installOo.
 
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Great info... thanks guys!



Matt400, what size & length of the grade 8 bolts did you use? I would like to get them prior to starting on the project!



Thanks



Jay
 
Originally posted by Jay

Matt400, what size & length of the grade 8 bolts did you use?

I forget but will try and remember to take a look tomorrow, right now its raining and shes outside. I'm thinking 3/8" or 7/16", the length is a no brainer by measuring the spring stack. Stay tuned!;)
 
Still raining so went the dry route and was reminded of this pic

So it's 1/2" by 3" long for the 2500, 3500's would need to be longer. You need 4.



I might add that pic was taken from the rear of the truck looking at the right rear so the lift point (forward of the axle) has more of the trucks weight on it.
 
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Matt400, Very cool... thank you! You can send some of that rain this way... we could really use it!



Jay
 
Originally posted by Jay

There are what appear to be two 0. 5” spacers between the top of the axle and the bottom of the spring on my 2003 2500 SWB 4x4. I would like to remove these spacers to lower the rear of my truck so that it fits under my 5th wheel better. I was told by a local aftermarket 4x4 shop that there are 3 center pins which go up into the spring therefore the spacers cannot be removed.



It's very easy to do. I took them out, and moved them to the top of the spring pack. Reason--If I ever want to undo the job, all the parts are still there. Also, if you take them out, you will have to replace those two bolts that go through the spring pack with shorter ones. This way, there are no parts to buy.

By the way, it looks a lot better now. It sets level.

When you take them out, you will see a plastic pin in the middle of the bottom one. Just move that pin to the bottom of the bottom spring leaf. Oh I almost forgot a very important bit of info. Put a C-CLAMP around the spring pack to hold it together.

That will make it a lot easer. Took me about two hours, but I could do it now in about 45 min.

Good luck
 
Removing the rear spacers

This looks to be the way I would want to go especially to level out the truck. Also added plus on getting a 5th wheel in the future. I have considered spacers on front coils an also replacing front springs with ones that add 2 inches,but my truck tracks so good I'm afraid to mess with front end. I guess I could try it an if it did'nt work out all I would be out would be a little sweat. :D
 
It's shorter!!!

Removed the spacers! The bolts that go thru the spacers and springs were a pain (note: add a pipe wrench to your tool list). Otherwise no problems. The truck looks great but I won't get a chance to see how the 5'ver fits until next weekend.



Many thanks to Matt400 for the mentoring!
 
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