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IMPORTANT question about 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD

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Guys, it is time to add another horse to my stable and I am very much drawn to the Jeep Liberty CRD which were only made in 2005 and 2006. I am looking at a used one owner that meets ALL of my wants and criteria. MOre importantly, it has extremely low engine mileage (38k) because it was flat towed behind an RV for its entire life. I NEED to know if the flat towing has an impact on anything other then the wheel bearings and tires and if there is anything special I should be looking at because of this history.

My feeling is that the low miles, excellent condition, as well as no modifications made to it, and the fact that it is exactly what I am lolling for int rems of trim and color, makes it worthy of the premium price the owners are asking. The same car in the same well kept condition, though also more worn drivetrain wise, with 120k is about $9K and this one is listed for $15k.

Whaddya think... ALL opinions welcomed!!
 
Replacement parts for that "uncommon" engine can be fun. My friend blew a turbo and had to wait for months to get one. Call your local Jeep dealer and ask for P & A on a turbo or a set of injectors out of curiosity. The vehicle is good. I have an 03 ( 3.7 V6 ) which is a little hard on fuel and rides rough but it's a Jeep. David
 
I would not buy a Crd liberty at any price. Too many hard to get parts. Too many special tools and too few techs that can fix them
 
I would not buy a Crd liberty at any price. Too many hard to get parts. Too many special tools and too few techs that can fix them
I had NO idea that parts for the crd were not bring made anymore. Gonna have to rethink this but I REALLY like thier style and of course the fact that they are diesel. I want to run all diesel in my stable and another vw is out for right now,
 
Unfortunately the Liberty itself is not very stout either. I bought my wife one back in 02. Probably the best year,same transmission as a hemi and it was also the pre-roll over lowered version. Nephew in Az bought the Crd before I could fill him in. Good for about 80/90k mi before they start getting expensive to keep
 
All that has been said is true. Parts are there but expensive, and the shops don't want to work on them. I think because they are not familiar with the engine. My son has one and loves it, we are in the process of repair on a bad diagnosis from the dealer, told he had a HOLE in the # 4 piston. tore down, NO HOLE. Head to shop told both Cams bad? any way replaced. Just a short story.
They also eat Glow plugs. So I am wondering if its possible to install a heating grid like the Rams have?
I all so think 15K is a bit much, top book he is asking. Your money.
 
Ex Wifey has one that we bought new... I of course eliminated as many of the problem areas as possible right away: Egr Brakes, OME 2 inch lift, Revos, transgo shift kit, EGR delete, inline fuel pump, 2 micron fuel filter, Green Diesel Engineering ECM program.

There were some trans recalls along the way too. But, we have run it 92,000 miles and it has been trouble free except for the above noted Glow Plugs.. They are not expensive if you replace them your self.

At 100,000 miles, you need to do a timing belt. Everyone agrees that when you do that, you should replace the waterpump, and a few other things... Around 950 bucks worth of stuff plus labor if you don't do it..

On balance, it was a little torque monster and , being a trail rated jeep with a lift kit and better suspension and tires was fun to drive both on and off road..

The price that person is asking for that CRD is ridiculous.. I wouldn't offer more than 9k for it....
 
Thanks you guys…with your feedback, I will be still looking for one of these. Most people who drive them, DO love them. Of course $15k is too much considering others are out there for $9k, but the extremely LOW original miles (38k) is still a decent deal…$6,000 dollars more for 60,000 miles less is only .10/cents per mile while IRS allows anywhere between .15 to .60 per depreciation ,mile, so it is money in MY pocket on miles NOT driven as far as I can figure out. I most ALWAYS prefer to buy low mileage vehicles so that I have much less chance of inheriting someone else's maintenance (or lack thereof) nightmares.
 
Thanks you guys…with your feedback, I will be still looking for one of these. Most people who drive them, DO love them. Of course $15k is too much considering others are out there for $9k, but the extremely LOW original miles (38k) is still a decent deal…$6,000 dollars more for 60,000 miles less is only .10/cents per mile while IRS allows anywhere between .15 to .60 per depreciation ,mile, so it is money in MY pocket on miles NOT driven as far as I can figure out. I most ALWAYS prefer to buy low mileage vehicles so that I have much less chance of inheriting someone else's maintenance (or lack thereof) nightmares.

Good call on sticking to low mileage vehicles. But we've all bought used clunkers at least once, and buying a used vehicle now brings back to me the lyrics of the song "Thousand Dollar Car" by the Bottle Rockets:

"...A thousand-dollar car's life is through
about fifty thousand miles before it got to you.
Why did I ever buy a thousand-dollar car?

A thousand-dollar car ain’t gonna roll,
'til you throw at least another thousand in the hole.
You sink your money in it, and there you are,
The owner of a two-thousand-dollar thousand-dollar car."
 
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I have a 2005 will turn 200,000 miles this week, original turbo, its important to take care of the Jeep like any other vehicle. Mods must be done to make engine live longer. I do all my own work. Ours has a triple disk TC and trans mods, we get 24-30 MPG
 
Lostjeeps.com and look under the "CRD Love that torque" section. I purchased mine with 118k on the clock and a popped timing belt. Dealer misdiagnosed as a hole in the piston also. Techs at dealerships know next to nothing about them. They are simple yet require your attention..........like a blonde mistress. :)
 
Don;
so your pistons were OK? how was the valve train? We had a broken lifter, could not find the broken pieces. Looking for decent weather to start reassembly.
 
My rockers were all broken on the exhaust cam and a couple on the intake. Water pump had gone out and allowed the timing to get out of whack. I went ahead and did a head gasket and had the head checked out. Pistons were beautiful. I went ahead and pulled the engine and the oil pan to find the couple of missing needle bearings. Re sealed everything while I was there. Deleted a few EPA mandated turds too!
 
FYI all my parts have come from IDparts.net Sasquatchparts.com and my local jeep dealer. The other thing I highly recommend is to send your PCM to Green Diesel and have it flashed.
 
Vm designs the rockers to break to protect the more expensive parts

Exactly Bob. And it spells that out in the FSM but techs at dealerships always claim there is carnage inside the engine. One thing that really gets me cranky is the so-called cranking compression test. The local shop claims its 100% accurate......not if the timing belt is off and rocker arms are broken. They never pulled an injector and performed a leak down on my jeep.
 
Exactly Bob. And it spells that out in the FSM but techs at dealerships always claim there is carnage inside the engine. One thing that really gets me cranky is the so-called cranking compression test. The local shop claims its 100% accurate......not if the timing belt is off and rocker arms are broken. They never pulled an injector and performed a leak down on my jeep.

This same thing happened here-no compression test or leak down. They wanted a cheap trade in and sell for top $$$ after repair.
 
Does anyone know if the PCM for the U.S. 2.8 CRD Jeep Liberty is interchangeable with the European Chysler Voyager and Cherokee?
 
Does anyone know if the PCM for the U.S. 2.8 CRD Jeep Liberty is interchangeable with the European Chysler Voyager and Cherokee?

Without being sure, but probably not as they have a different Emissions standard.
Hardware - maybe if we talk about a dedicated ECM. Is the Libby still sporting a PCM in 06?
 
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